I got a husqvarna 372xp that slightly hesitates a little everytime I give it gas off idle. I bought the saw used a few months ago. It has always had the hesitation. If I squeeze the trigger too quick it will go dead. Once the RPMs are up there the saw is fine. You dont notice it at all unless you give it gas off idle. Seems to be a bit better when it warms up, but still hesitates. Will I damage it if I run the saw like this? Worried if it is leaning out.
Husqvarna 372xp hesitation when i squeeze trigger
- Thread starter r0858
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parrisw
Tree Freak
Ya, tune the carb a little better, richen the L a little, if that doesn't do it, I'd rebuild the carb.
+ 3 Steve
Yep, a guy I work with quite a bit was having the same issue with his 372 xpw. Could not adjust it out. Rebuilt the carb....runs like a top now - Sam
Blowncrewcab
ArboristSite Guru
Just be sure you don't have an air leak before trying to tune it out, If it ran good before and now all the sudden it runs bad theres probably a carb problem or an air leak (the air leak will kill a saw wayyy faster than a carb problem) check it...
Sounds like an air leak or carb diaphragms are shot, check the carb first then check the fuel hose.
sefh3
Addicted to ArboristSite
Richen the L about 1/8th of a turn. If it doesn't help look at the fuel line then rebuild the carb.
I've read that a slight increase in the reservoir of fuel in the carb can get rid of a bog when cracking the throttle open.
You can try tweaking the lever arm to the metering valve, move the end of the arm a little closer to the diaphragm.
After tweaking the arm, you should check the L and H needle settings as they will likely be a bit richer.
You can try tweaking the lever arm to the metering valve, move the end of the arm a little closer to the diaphragm.
After tweaking the arm, you should check the L and H needle settings as they will likely be a bit richer.
This is such a classic thread here on AS.
The op probably just needs to open up the L screw a little but here we are suggesting he rebuild the carb, bend the metering lever, and maybe split the case to fix an air leak.
He probably never knew what he was getting into. LOL:greenchainsaw:
The op probably just needs to open up the L screw a little but here we are suggesting he rebuild the carb, bend the metering lever, and maybe split the case to fix an air leak.
He probably never knew what he was getting into. LOL:greenchainsaw:
homelitejim
Full of Scrap
had this same problem with my homelite super ez. took carb apart and cleaned it out, adjusted it and it fixed the dying part but still hesitates before going to full throttle. I will rebuild carb and replace fuel line and filter, the fuel line is looking gooey.
Madrone, well if he runs out of other options, he can also take a nip off the side of the throttle butterfly to lean the idle, then open up th L needle to correct the mixture at idle, then turn down the idle screw back to idle speed - that will make the off idle mixture more rich as he transitions through the low speed circuit.
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Right!
Maybe he should just junk the saw and get a new one....372's are cheap.:monkey:
Before you do everything suggested, you may want to make sure a STIHL MS440 or MS460 are not within view of it - that could cause the 372 to hesitate. 
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
That's what I was thinking too, but if not a quik 'L' fix, it may be symptomatic of needing a metering diaphram. Also check that the throttle cable has full WOT when held to the pin.
John
tooold
ArboristSite Operative
Like others have said, the first thing would be adjust the low speed screw. The next thing I would do is pull the carb and disassemble it. Are the diaphragm's pliable without holes? Stiff diaphragm's will really make a saw act up.(ethanol) I would then take contact spray and shoot it in the low speed circuit and watch for it to squirt out of the idle discharge holes near the throttle plate. You will have to hold the throttle open to see this. There usually are 3 or 4 holes in this area. When the throttle is fully closed, only one of these holes are visible, the other holes are there so when the throttle plate starts to open, more fuel can come out. If those holes are clear, I would adjust the fuel meter arm. SLIGHTLY (.02" or .5mm at a time) bend the arm so more of it sticks up for the diaphragm to hit it. It's like raising the fuel level in a carb by adjusting the float level. It will richen everything but idle. When I was working on jet ski's and the 650's first came out, every one had to have the fuel arm adjusted richer to fix the part throttle operation.
