Husqvarna 390XP vs 395XP ...which one is the better saw?

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Tramp Bushler, I appreciate the advice! Everyone keeps telling me to get the 372. I wish I knew someone local that had both the 395 and the 372 so I could try both of them. I generally always get the most power I can. That is why I bought a 500cc 2-stroke dirt bike instead of the more common and easier to handle 250cc. It is a Honda CR500AF. I also have a Trail Blazer SS, Impala SS, and a Camaro Z/28. I get the fastest one in its class. That is just my mindset and it applies to saws too.

Back to chainsaws: Everyone is telling me to get the 372. Is it really that much more user friendly and easier to handle?
The 372(or 576,461,460) certainly are much more user-friendly. The power of the big saws is great when you need it but the weight will burn you out fast. See if a dealer will let you run them. You're starting to sound like the rest of us so eventually, you'll get both anyway. Lol. Pick your poison.

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Thanks Husky Man for the suggestion on the protective equipment. I will consider getting some chaps and a helmet.

I like your multiple saw plan! But you forgot everyone's favorite: the 372! Maybe you need to make it a 5 saw plan? As for me, I may later look into adding a 372 to fit nicely in the middle. But I will have to see how this chainsaw hobby turns out. I am getting a good start with 2 saws. I think three would be the most I would ever need. Man I sure hope my wife does not monitor this thread! But I seriously doubt I would ever need the 3120. I really don't need the 395, so the saw of all saws is completely out of the question.
Check with your local Stihl dealer. I think it's called a woodcutter kit. Chaps,helmet,glasses and a nylon bag for about $100. None of us "need' the saws we have. It becomes addicting. Much worse things we could be spending our money on. I do say get a 372 eventually. You'll love it.

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Back to chainsaws: Everyone is telling me to get the 372. Is it really that much more user friendly and easier to handle?

In a word, yes. A 90+cc saw is a burden to haul around. Yeah, there are guys who do it all day every day, but unless you're built like them, you will notice it. A 390 is gonna be a fair amount not manageable than a 395, but still a 372 will feel a lot lighter and more nimble. Personally I'd only consider a 395 after owning a 70cc saw. If you really feel you must have a big saw right off the bat, then I'd definitely go 390xp.

And, you should not consider PPE to be optional. I recently got a pair of safety pants to replace my worn out chaps, and I very highly recommend them. More freedom of movement, more comfortable, better looking even, and most importantly, starting when you put them on in the morning they're always there. No more making a few cuts at the end of the day without bothering to throw on chaps. You're considering spending close to a grand in a saw, so do the right thing and roll the cost of PPE right into the price. If you can't afford a 90cc saw and safety gear, well then a 372 it is.
 
Lastly, check with your local DNR and county forester to see if anyone in your area teaches chainsaw safety courses. I had the opportunity to attend an all day safety course a few years ago. Absolutely changed my game. Totally worth the $100. Running saws is very dangerous, especially when trees are involved. Proper training goes a long way towards keeping you alive.
 
Tramp Bushler, I appreciate the advice! Everyone keeps telling me to get the 372. I wish I knew someone local that had both the 395 and the 372 so I could try both of them. I generally always get the most power I can. That is why I bought a 500cc 2-stroke dirt bike instead of the more common and easier to handle 250cc. It is a Honda CR500AF. I also have a Trail Blazer SS, Impala SS, and a Camaro Z/28. I get the fastest one in its class. That is just my mindset and it applies to saws too.

Back to chainsaws: Everyone is telling me to get the 372. Is it really that much more user friendly and easier to handle?


I haven't run a 395 or 372, but with what I know of Huskies, YES, the 372 would be "That much more user friendly and easier to Handle" than the 395.

I wont say that a 372 will never find a home with me, it just isn't that big of a step from my 66.7 cc 266XP, if my 266 were ever stolen or destroyed, a 372 would probably be it's replacement.
My 266 has served me well, and I will never part with that saw.

I Had been considering, Very Seriously, The 395, and then I got interested in the idea of CSM (Chain Saw Milling) and Dave "The Chainsaw Guy" on here and ebay has the 3120 for $1399, shipped here, Plus shipping on ebay, so with milling in mind, I opted for the 3120, but am still planning on a 395 in the future.

I don't recall if you said what size wood you would be cutting, but a 372 with a 28" bar would likely handle anything that you would be cutting.

We are often cutting 30"+ wood above 5,000' elevation, my 266 COULD do that, but being tuned for much lower elevations, I lose some power, and at that size wood, I am well past what my saw was intended to do. If it was just a couple of cuts, I wouldn't hesitate to just cut from both sides, but bucking a full 34" diameter log into 16-18" rounds, is a different story.

I admit, the 3120, is a FUN SAW to run, but when I have to use the Peavey to roll logs to finish the cut, it didn't take long to put the 3120 down and grab the 266 for the up cutting, I'm NOT 9 anymore.

I have seen some videos, on the value of chaps, they don't work on the theory of blocking the chain, like the Kevlar in a "Bullet Proof" vest, but rather they are made up of layers, that when the saw comes in contact, it pulls strands out, and wads up/jambs the clutch/sprocket on the saw, it is Amazing just how fast it works. It's still NOT going to be a Pleasant experience, but they sure looked like a worthwhile idea, I just Hope that I Never find out from Experience;):)

Be careful CAD, can sneak up on you, when you're not looking, that 3 saw plan will seem Very Logical, and then somehow a fourth saw found it's way into your garage, and by then, your case of CAD might be to the incurable stage, before you realized what happened.

Doug
 
Lastly, check with your local DNR and county forester to see if anyone in your area teaches chainsaw safety courses. I had the opportunity to attend an all day safety course a few years ago. Absolutely changed my game. Totally worth the $100. Running saws is very dangerous, especially when trees are involved. Proper training goes a long way towards keeping you alive.


Thanks Ryan, I will have to check into that myself, always open to learning something new, especially when it comes to safety. One of my Brother in Laws helps teach CCW classes, I already have my permit, but I will sit in every couple years, just for a refresher, or in case any new info is added.

Doug
 
I'd get the 372XP with a 24" bar and never look back.

Take the money saved and get a 28 or 30" skip tooth set-up for the few occasions you need to take down a tree over about 30" diameter. Grab a 20" bar for the 372XP as well, it will be your "go to" saw most of the time. When you get into smaller work the 550XP will fit the bill nicely.....IMHO......Cliff

PS: I used a 395XP last weekend to take down a HUGE white Oak in a fence row. As soon as it hit the ground I made half a dozen cuts in the big part of the log, then put it back in the truck. I'm a pretty big guy and tough as nails, cut wood just about every day, and not overly fond of lugging around that much saw to cut up trees once they hit the ground. I've found in recent years that smaller saws with excellent power to weight are the way to go for most of this type of work.......
 
Yep, it would be a very noticeable difference. Fwiw, 372 would be faster than a 390/395in wood up to 20-24” probably. Put a 28” or 32” bar on and the bigger saws would start to pull away pretty quickly.

No way will a 372 be even close if you run a aggressive chain on the 390 or 395, My 385xp is way faster than my 372 in any wood, not even close, maybe in under 8" wood where the big one would even get spooled up they would be closer. Steve
 
I am with cus_deluxe on this one. Have owned many 372's, couple 385's, 390 and 394. If I had to pick one, it would be a 372. Never noticed a big advantage of a 385 or 390, unless they are ported. Tree sizes he is talking about a 372 will do the job well. Port a 372 and it's done.
 
If you don't run a aggressive chains on the bigger saws with more torque to take advantage of the power and torque then chain speed will cut faster, low rakers and sharp chains the big saws will shine. Steve
I was meaning all things being equal, the 372 will be faster in smaller wood. Pretty obvious if you put a better chain on one saw it will have an advantage, but then thats not a very good comparison is it?
 
I can say I can throw around a 460 or 461 all day long and be fine . Ran my 395xp for about a hour and a half and I was wooped . Like had to lay on the ground for 5 mins wooped . Do I need a 395xp .. not at all . I have a ported 660 also don’t need that either . But I want them . Buy whatever you want if it makes you happy . That being said you would be much more happy and get a lot more use out of a 70cc saw for your use . In the size wood you have 70cc will more than likely be faster . Want a bigger smile get that baby ported !!:chainsaw:
 
A husky 562 new models that are sorted out our a 620 Echo or Makita equivalent
I have a 550xp and would rather have something you can tune than tune itself
 
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