Husqvarna 394xp ...splitting a case without a splitter!

[Mattyo]

Thanks to JMSSAWS for the idea.... figured I'd do a vid. it was his idea. ...

@jmssaws

 

[HarleyT]

Next time, try it without the heat....
Protect the threads, and take out all of the screws.

 

[Mattyo]

What is the benefits of doing it without the heat

 

[backhoelover]

FYI you can't do that on saws with case stuffers just to let you know

 

[Mattyo]

I've done probably 50 saws now....haven't had one yet with stuffers.

Pretty sure you can't use a regular splitter with stuffers...the regular splitter grabs the inside of the case.....so there is no room with stuffers. so you have to use a splitter that attaches to the studs.

With stuffera...Why can't I just heat it and knock it like I did here? stuffers fragile?

 

[backhoelover]

There plastic. Years ago I didn't use splitters did one with and it burnt it up stuffed saw had a slight vibration. Split the saw again and seen where I fired the stuffs, put a set of stuffers on and it was fine. You can make a splitter one like the stihl as and the other one with flat stock just drill your holes as you go you could build both for about 40.00. check out 357 splitter to get an idea for the clutch side

 

[HarleyT]

What is the benefits of doing it without the heat

I don't know....

Save time, fuel, money?
Not trying to start trouble, but I always just tap out the crank, no heat. No high priced tools. Just protect the threads, and use common sense...

 

[HarleyT]

I know I am ignorant.....
But what the hell is a "stuffer"???

 

[HarleyT]

Of course, most guys here have major trouble just removing a clutch or flywheel......

 

[Mattyo]

Didn't know stuffers were plastic.

Using heat puts less stress on the whole setup...
So i'm gonna keep using heat and avoid using saws with stuffers

 

[Mattyo]

Oh...and my case splitter does attach to the studs. it's very crude but it does work.

 

[jmssaws]

I use a heat gun and sometimes I drive the pins down but usually not.

Unless a bearing is spun I've not split one that you could "tap" apart without heat.

Yes heat does make things hot so caution around things that melt.
Plastic and seals that will be reused and so on.

I only heat the edge of the bearing pocket and not next to the bearing and seal.
I'm not sure how you could melt a stuffer unless you are heating the inside or just get it way to hot.

Most bearings have plastic cages so did they melt to?

 

[Mattyo]

the big proprietary bearings that have integral seals and plastic cages need to be assumed to be no good after such a procedure. If I am splitting a case, such a bearing is getting replaced. even then, its it best to have the proper puller type tools to put the whole thing back together if such a bearing is needed... ie 346xp or 385 390 ... for this reason I think i'm going to stick to models I can buy cheap bearings for... 372xp, 262xp, 394xp and ... 350's

 

[weimedog]

I'll throw my hat in the ring as a supporter of this video & technic. Heat differential is a perfectly valid approach. As for stuffers, Husqvarna 346, 550's, 562's, 575/576, and a few others have stuffers. They are cheap. Typically using a torch or gun localizes the heat more to the cases so those Stuffers should be OK. Pretty common in the XP line. I have used a wood stove (for video impact), a hot plate (VERY useful for installation of bearings), and a heat gun (most common now coupled with thermometer for virtually everything) to get to a case temp number around 250-270 degrees Fahrenheit plus or minus. Coupled with a non contact thermometer to keep from OVER doing it, especially with those saws with stuffers requiring a special tool, a fairly easy and inexpensive way to get cases apart and or bearings out. Its how I take apart the Stihl 066-660's, rather hammer on them anyway.. Usually the bearing stays on the crank and then a simple bearing puller can take them off....SO bottom line. The concept works across a broad range of saws. And I prefer not using a torch, just a little nervous with the "when flame meets Magnesium" thing, even though I know intellectually chances are its not going to be an issue. My two favorite approaches are heat guns and hot plates (for installing bearings) . AND with heat guns, its easier to keep the paint from going dark burn color. Good stuff. And Matt....I'm personally more interested in the stuff YOU have designed and innovated, as there is plenty vs. repeating the other guys stuff. What ever happened to the mill and your experimenting with that vs. chainsaws? But this certainly is a nice video for the "simple tools" folks... Good fundamental technic for MORE than just chainsaws.

 

[Mattyo]

yes yes yes... I've got some more milling vids up now... and will likely concentrate on those.

another project i'd like to explore is 3d printing unobtainium... husky parts that are NLA that might respond well to 3d printing. so far I've got designs for the 262xp chip deflector (oem is rubber, 3d printed is plastic... but it works FINE) and the 262xp oem original chain catcher ... also works fine. so i've got lots of plans for all that stuff, likely winter project.

I'd also like to get into making a blade sharpener for the mill. I think I can do it, but i'm gonna need a bit of ambition and time for that.

I haven't set mag on fire yet! ..and I don't really try to cook it.... I really try to be gentle with the torch.

 

[cambl]

Matt

You seem like a good guy and we don't want you hurt. Use a heat gun not a torch! Mg is a flammable metal, and while some guys will say there is no problem using a torch, it just isn't good. Heat guns also heat the bearing areas more consistently.



$12 at Harbor Freight.

 

[grack]

Thanks to JMSSAWS for the idea.... figured I'd do a vid. it was his idea. ...

@jmssaws

I've always done it the hard way thanks for the info.

 

[Mattyo]

I've set plenty of Mag on fire....but tiny pieces. a big chunk like this is difficult to ignite. but point taken.


Thanks for the comments guys.