Husqvarna 435 factory refurb q’s

[Toyman]

Rec’d the saw Friday from CPO. Read that these saws are prettty powerful for their size. I was looking for a smaller, lightweight, limbing saw. Got it fired up and tuned the carb. Here’s what I’ve found so far. Doesn’t have the power I was expecting. It was bogging in the cut on some small trees I cut. After it warmed up it would really bog, as if it wanted to stall. sounded similar to when the brake is engaged. Now to the comparison. I fired up my Poulan Woodshark 3314. It had more torque/power. Didn’t bog in the cut at all and seemed to have a lot more power. I did mod the muffler on the Poulan and tuned the carb. On the Husky, I ran the H out (cc) prob a full turn. The revs increased, and then started to fall off. So, were my expectations too high? Any thoughts from all you experts?

 

[Kenskip1]

Experts? How about a compression test?How about richen it up? What does the muffler screen look like? I suspect a lean condition that is your cause for concern.Does it have limiter caps? I am assuming that the chain is reasonably sharp. How tight was the chain on the bar? Was it oiling? Inquiring minds want to know.Without some specific information it is not possible at this time to make a definitive diagnosis. 40-1, 87 octane? I'll do what I can, Ken

 

[Toyman]

No compression test yet, just a field test as I said above. I also stated above that I tuned the carb and that I ran the H (high) out about a full turn (richened it up). It has splined caps that take a special tool, which I have and used adjusting the carb. 50:1 premix (94 octane, I believe). (Safety) chain was new, oiler was working, and the chain was tensioned properly.

It also starts (hot and cold) very well. I also have a Jonsered 2250, and it’s pulled hard thru everything I’ve cut, just for comparison.

And I meant “experts”in the best sense. I’ve learned a ton reading here from all you experts. I hope it wasn’t taken in a different context.

 

[Brazos]

I have two of these. I bought them from Northern Tool during their logging sale for $159 each after my $20 off coupons they sent me. I bought one a 3 years ago, liked it and bought the second two years ago during their logging sale. Both have worked great and I have not touched a thing on them. They only have something like 2.2hp so they aren't a race saw. Work great for limbing and general cleanup use. If I have the opportunity to get another for the same price I will buy it. Both the saws I got looked like new with new bars and chains.

 

[Kenskip1]

In your first post "revs increased, and then started to fall off" This tells me that it is starving for fuel. Is there a date on the saw telling when it was manufactured? I am thinking that the diaphragm in the carburetor is laying down. Simply, not supplying enough gas.

 

[Toyman]

I believe the saw was manufactured in '17 from the tag, but I'll have to look to confirm. The 'revs increased and then started to fall off' was when I was making it richer (adj H), not while I was cutting.

Brazos - I wasn't expecting a race saw, but I thought it would have fallen between my Jones 2250 and Poulan 3314 powerwise. I REALLY wasn't expecting it to be underpowered compared to the Poulan.

Basically I was planning on replacing the Poulan (10 or so years old) with the Husky, so it needs to at least be its equal. I'll mess with it a bit, and decide whether to return or not.

Thanks for the input!

 

[Brazos]

My 2 saws don’t seem to fall off on power. As long as the chain is not dull they plow on thru stuff. I used mine yesterday to saw up oaks from 6”-10” caliper and it cut them fine. Big stuff I use my big saw and I use the 435 for limbing and smaller stuff.

 

[scottr]

Toyman , a chainsaw forum Husqvarna 435 search turned up a thread started by Modifiedmark titled Taching a Husqvarna 435 that should help you .

 

[Toyman]

Ok, had a little time to read a bunch of threads, including recommendations above, and do a little tinkering. I decided to baseline the carb back to factory settings, according to the shop manual. So I lightly bottomed out the H & L and then backed out the H 2 turns and the L 2.5 turns. Fired up the saw, or at least tried to, and found I had to make an adjustment to the T circuit. Got it running, adjusted the idle to where the chain started to move and then backed off about a 1/4 turn. Then I got to the H & L. It wasn't snappy, so I adjusted the L a little richer and then the H to highest rpms. Ran out of time, but it's very snappy on the throttle and seems to power up very quickly. I'll have to get it in some wood shortly to see the difference, but from making these adjustments it seems to me that it was set way too rich from the refurb. Thanks for all the help & responses!

Got to cut some wood at lunch time. It's an entirely different saw. May have a little more tweaking, but I'll be keeping it.

 

[smokey7]

Very good job not giving up. Once you get it where you like it lightly seat the high and low and record the turns under the airfilter cover or somewhere you can find them later. Do the same with the la screw but be very careful to not bend strip or damage anything in process. Also record fuel oil ratio grade of fuel and temp. That way if something happens you can always go back to "that" saws baseline at your elevation with your fuel and oil.