Husqvarna 445 vs 346xp

[TraditionalTool]

Log house builders tend to use the MS660 Logosol (PMX chain) here.....

I'm confused also...I think it all gets down to what type of work your doing. I'm not sure why a handcraft log builder would use a logosol, doesn't that use a chainsaw to slab up timber?

Most folks I know use a band mill for that, the yard I was at had a diesel model that was really nice with auto-lubricant.

Back to the chainsaw, my buddy was telling me that he has been pondering getting a saw even lighter than the Husq 345, since often they will be working in high winds, 10-20 feet off the ground, and lighter is better in that case.

Just to thrown a red herring into the equation, he also mentioned today that he had been looking into RedMax saws. I can't find much info on them here, other than Husq bought them.

In regards to weight, I was looking over the Husq site and see the 338xpt is a bit lighter even (as-is the 339), albeit at less power. How does the 338xpt fit into the picture when compared to the 346xp?

Regards,
TT

 

[gr8scott72]

In regards to weight, I was looking over the Husq site and see the 338xpt is a bit lighter even (as-is the 339), albeit at less power. How does the 338xpt fit into the picture when compared to the 346xp?

Regards,
TT

Well, it's a top handle and most people don't want a top handle unless they are in a tree.

 

[TraditionalTool]

Well, it's a top handle and most people don't want a top handle unless they are in a tree.

That makes sense, but I'm not sure if that would be desirable when cutting joinery or not just yet. Seems the rear handle would be preferred, hold the bar on the side.

Still seems that all around, the 346xp is one of the most versatile.

Regards,
TT

 

[TraditionalTool]

Well, it's a top handle and most people don't want a top handle unless they are in a tree.

Scott,

You got me thinking about this, and it could actually be an advantage to have the handle on the top for doing joinery. it seems to me that having the orientation on top, would work better when cutting the slope of the dovetail also, where the saw would be turned to cut an angle for the top of the bottom piece. Like using handsaws for joinery, maybe chainsaws are similar, just a matter of preference.

Wish I could try one out along side a rear handle, the rear handle is odd in cutting the joinery it seems as the handle hangs lower.

Does anyone on this site cut joinery with their chainsaws? That might be a good question for it's own thread.

Regards,
TT

 

[blis]

That makes sense, but I'm not sure if that would be desirable when cutting joinery or not just yet. Seems the rear handle would be preferred, hold the bar on the side.

Still seems that all around, the 346xp is one of the most versatile.

Regards,
TT

You want saw with rear handle and really high rpms (more rpm and sharp chain -> cleaner cuts and joints), you just cant control top-handled saw like a traditional one and when cutting joints you want all the control you can get...

If i was doing dovetail joints myself with chainsaw i would just cut the sidecuts and then use chisel to pop off the block. Otherway would be to skim off the wood slowly with chainsaw but it takes bit of practice before the cuts look nice, tends to "bite" too deep in the wood at the beginning...

 

[TraditionalTool]

You want saw with rear handle and really high rpms (more rpm and sharp chain -> cleaner cuts and joints), you just cant control top-handled saw like a traditional one and when cutting joints you want all the control you can get...

Ok, thanks blis, that answers my question.

If i was doing dovetail joints myself with chainsaw i would just cut the sidecuts and then use chisel to pop off the block. Otherway would be to skim off the wood slowly with chainsaw but it takes bit of practice before the cuts look nice, tends to "bite" too deep in the wood at the beginning...

Yeah, I have pondered doing it that way. I know the log craftsman I'm working with does it with a chainsaw. I'm going back to his yard the end of the month to learn how to cut dovetails, my experience is all in smaller pieces, like workbenches, furniture, etc...

 

[TraditionalTool]

When you bring in a saw to get worked on, how do they know if you bought it online, bought it from a friend, moved to the area and already had the saw, or even just bought it from another dealer in the same town.

Scott,

I have to reply to you on this one, and eat a little crow while at it, chewing on my size 11 red wing never tastes very good and the steel toes always give me a tough chew...*lol*

Turns out my local dealer will not service anything they do not sell, on warranty. To make matters worse they charge over MSRP, because, "we are a full service shop and keep a full stock of parts on hand". For me one thing that pops out at me is that I will also get the luxury of paying over MSRP for parts from them as well.

I was told they will only do warranty work on saws that are California approved, which eliminates many models I've been interested in, although the 346xp is approved for California.

I have talked with the log craftsman I'm working with on my project, and he made a point that lighter is better when doing the type of log work I'll be doing, and when your working in 50-100 mph winds 12 feet off the ground, it's nice to have a lighter saw.

None of the small light saws seem to be available in California, the Husqvarna 339xp is not available, neither was the 336, nor is the Stihl MS200 (rear handle model). They do have a special California edition (with Green fuel) of the 338xpt they sell here, but my choices are few in the light category.

I found a place online that has NOS 336 saws for $359 with free shipping in the U.S. I believe this has been discontinued and replaced with the 339xp, which I can't get in California either. So, I bit the bullet and pulled the trigger on the 336 today...<gasp> over the web. :chainsawguy: I could get the 339xp on the web for $499 (MSRP), but would also need to pay shipping, another $25~. At the end of the day I'm about $175 cheaper with the 336. I know, I know, it's not a 346xp, but OTOH it's only 8 lbs. I think it will work just fine for the joinery I intend to do, so the log craftsman I'm working with also felt.

I guess I'm a hypocrite for ending up buying on the inet, but it seems I either get screwed by the dealer in buying a new one and paying over MSRP, or having to pay for service should I need it. Given that option, I'll take my chances with getting the saw serviced on my own, if I have to, or finding someone that will warranty it locally if that is possible. Chances are if I take care of the saw it won't need any server until after the warranty is long gone...(probably the same with yours also;-)

Cheers,
TT

 

[blis]

uh oh, hope you didnt step on pile of poo since 336 is pretty big POS for a saw :bang:

 

[TraditionalTool]

uh oh, hope you didnt step on pile of poo since 336 is pretty big POS for a saw :bang:

Well, I have read pretty good stuff about the 336, predecessor to the 339xp...however, I'm not out of the woods yet...seems the company doesn't ship to California either, in fine print of their shipping instructions. So, not sure I'll be getting this actually...although I could ship to my friend in WV if I wanted, I guess...I'll find out if they ship to me or not...I might be back to either the 339xp or 346xp (as originally planned). They do sell the 346xp in California, but not the 339xp.

Why do you say the 336 is a POS? From what I've read on AS, most folks that own them like them a lot. Granted, they are not XP, which the 339 is.

I could also get the Stihl MS200 if I want, but it's about $629 list, but I can get that in WV also.

Regards,
TT

 

[blis]

Well, I have read pretty good stuff about the 336, predecessor to the 339xp...however, I'm not out of the woods yet...seems the company doesn't ship to California either, in fine print of their shipping instructions. So, not sure I'll be getting this actually...although I could ship to my friend in WV if I wanted, I guess...I'll find out if they ship to me or not...I might be back to either the 339xp or 346xp (as originally planned). They do sell the 346xp in California, but not the 339xp.

Why do you say the 336 is a POS? From what I've read on AS, most folks that own them like them a lot. Granted, they are not XP, which the 339 is.

I could also get the Stihl MS200 if I want, but it's about $629 list, but I can get that in WV also.

Regards,
TT

336 was replaced by 339xp and atleast over here alot of people had problems with 336, however 339xp was totally different beast and havent heard problems with it however...

 

[gr8scott72]

Well, I have read pretty good stuff about the 336, predecessor to the 339xp...however, I'm not out of the woods yet...seems the company doesn't ship to California either, in fine print of their shipping instructions. So, not sure I'll be getting this actually...although I could ship to my friend in WV if I wanted, I guess...I'll find out if they ship to me or not...I might be back to either the 339xp or 346xp (as originally planned). They do sell the 346xp in California, but not the 339xp.

Why do you say the 336 is a POS? From what I've read on AS, most folks that own them like them a lot. Granted, they are not XP, which the 339 is.

I could also get the Stihl MS200 if I want, but it's about $629 list, but I can get that in WV also.

Regards,
TT

The 200 is an awesome little saw in either form (top handle or rear handle) if you can swing the price. Of course, at that price, I would (and did) just get the 346.

 

[TraditionalTool]

336 was replaced by 339xp and atleast over here alot of people had problems with 336, however 339xp was totally different beast and havent heard problems with it however...

I guess I'll have to see if they ship to me (possibility) and/or if I have problems with it. I think it would do fine for me, seeing that I don't actually need to cut firewood with it, or anything like that. I will be using it mostly for the joinery on the home I'm building. I've read some favorable comments towards the 336 on AS. Time will tell...

The 200 is an awesome little saw in either form (top handle or rear handle) if you can swing the price. Of course, at that price, I would (and did) just get the 346.

Scott,

I think it depends on what one needs. It is a lot of power for what I need, although the 346xp would probably do all of my cutting that I would ever need. The 336, if they deliver it, will do good for me also. If they'll ship to me, and if I blow it up, I'll get another one. :dunno:

I'm sure the MS200 rear handle would do fine also, albeit at double the cost of the 336. Maybe a case where it's worth it? :dunno: (seems a lot I dunno;-)

Cheers,
TT

 

[striperswaper]

you mentioned weight concerns a bit... did you ever take a look at the redmax G3800? yes fewer cc's and 2lbs lighter
reading here it responds very well to mods
you might want to ask Brad what he thinks

 

[TraditionalTool]

you mentioned weight concerns a bit... did you ever take a look at the redmax G3800? yes fewer cc's and 2lbs lighter
reading here it responds very well to mods
you might want to ask Brad what he thinks

I did look at them a bit, but couldn't find any of them local.

The log craftsman I'm working with has a colleague he's worked with for many years, and he just got a RedMax and loves it. He swapped the bar/chain out for a 1/4 and loves it.

Most of the dealers here don't have any in stock to look at. My local dealer was very firm that they could order, but would not be responsible and it's mine once purchased, they would not refund and/or take it as exchange. Some customer service, heh? :bang:

Weight is a big concern with the work I will be doing.

I think the folks might ship the 336 to me in Cali. If that happens, and if it does present problems, RedMax will be one of the saws I look at.

What about the GZ4500? That's the one I was looking at, it has about the most power for 9.5 lbs. that RedMax offers.

I don't know which model my buddies colleague had bought, he's checking to find out for me.

Cheers,
TT

 

[SawTroll]

uh oh, hope you didnt step on pile of poo since 336 is pretty big POS for a saw :bang:

Not here - and the production of the 336 and 339xp started at the same time - in 2003 or so.

They both had issues, until the NE339xp appeared in 2006/2007 - it is just that the original 339xp wasn't sold in the US (and maybe some other markets), but the NE one is - and the 336 is discontinued (at least here).

I am very happy with my NE339xp, and so are the other AS members that I know have one.

 

[TraditionalTool]

Troll,

I'm still trying to figure out if they will ship to me or not, but it seems the 336 could be a worthwhile saw for the work I need done if I understand you.

Are there happy 336 owners back there? It has the same "fugly" look as the 339xp, but I think it's growin' on me.

I know that you seem happy with your 339xp, as some others are, and I've read some good comments on the 336 from actual owners here on AS, so was willing to take a chance. Cost wise, I can get the 336 for substantially less as it is discontinued.

Cheers,
TT

 

[striperswaper]

try searching here for the 3800 info it has received a fair amount of praise

with 1/4 or even 3/8 low profile I think you could comfortably cut with the accuracy you need. I have the non safety 3/8 low profile chain on a little old echo that has made a bunch of technical trail features for my son. when I first started making them I surprized myself how good joints fit just using a chainsaw
you might also want to also consider the narrow nerf for what you want to do

I believe you can buy redmax online and a company that was a sponser that through here I understand is great to deal with sells them $289 (with a 14" bar)

from what you say about the saw shop you are going to now it sounds like you need to find a different one before you buy a saw. just a tad too independent, find a back woods one man shop he will probably take care of what you might need

 

[SawTroll]

Troll,

I'm still trying to figure out if they will ship to me or not, but it seems the 336 could be a worthwhile saw for the work I need done if I understand you.

Are there happy 336 owners back there? It has the same "fugly" look as the 339xp, but I think it's growin' on me.

I know that you seem happy with your 339xp, as some others are, and I've read some good comments on the 336 from actual owners here on AS, so was willing to take a chance. Cost wise, I can get the 336 for substantially less as it is discontinued.

Cheers,
TT

I have never heard of a 336 actually being sold here - no point when the 339xp was availiable.

However, I know that AS member and arborist Mike Maas used to like the 336, do a search.....

 

[TraditionalTool]

I have never heard of a 336 actually beeing sold here - no point when the 339xp was availiable.

However, I know that AS member and arborist Mike Maas used to like the 336, do a search.....

Took me a while to figure out that Mike Maas is "Kneejerk Bombas", and I did find a thread where it seemed Mike against the world, and he was defending the 336 while others that hadn't used it were laughing their arse off...

The company responded to me, they will ship to Cali. I'm getting the 336 (stepping in a pile of poo as blis mentioned;-). Mike's comments give me enough comfort that the saw will be fine for the joinery I'm looking to do with it. The 336 is a very light saw compared to most, and seems comparable to the MS200 rear handle.

FWIW, I saw some race results where Mike Maas took first place in class, using a 336, so he put his money where his mouth is.

If I'm not mistaken, this is where Mike put his money where his mouth is...

Cheers,
TT

 

[SawTroll]

Took me a while to figure out that Mike Maas is "Kneejerk Bombas", ....

Good job, I had no idea about the "identity" change.......