Husqvarna 61 erratic restarting after running

[Rosss]

Husqvarna 61
I bought it used a few months ago from the original owner who was selling it to get a saw that started better.
It smoked when I got it and once it had good gas in it that stopped.
It starts easily when cold. Once it has run hard and shut off then it takes multiple pulls and tends to catch but not stay running, sometimes it runs but when throttle is applied bogs and dies. Sometimes it restarts just fine.
If I fill the tank all the way up it doesn't go. If I crack the gas cap it spits out a bit of gas.
Seems to work best when it is no more than 3/4 full.
I have tired tuning the low and high and idle but that has not cleared up the issues.

It runs fine at times and at other times it just catches and won't run and then it will and runs fine till shut off.

Also when the saw is being finicky and I turn it on it's side it will die.

Also it just doesn't seem as crisp as I think it should on the throttle but it has pulled a 36 inch bar in a 30 inch milling cut when my milling saw was down. (I had no idea it would do that) It was still finicky then but not to the degree that it is now.

The saw has 150 compression, piston looked good through the exhaust port.

I really like apart from this. I will be pretty excited once I clear this up.

Thoughts?

 

[merc_man]

Sounds like posible air leak.
Probly crank seals

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[JohnT34]

I have 3 61’s from the 80’s and I really like them. I have rebuilt all 3 from bottom to top.
Considering the P&C is fine I would change the fuel filter and check the fuel line also tank vent I would clean out the carb and then put a carb kit in it (they are really cheap) presuming it’s a tilotson 0163 or 0224 and replace the intake gaskets while checking intake block for any cracks. If this has not previously been done
I am presuming there are no coil issues here?
Also I did a base gasket delete on one of my 61’s and it really woke it up on the torque front


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[captain dangers]

Husqvarna 61
I bought it used a few months ago from the original owner who was selling it to get a saw that started better.
It smoked when I got it and once it had good gas in it that stopped.
It starts easily when cold. Once it has run hard and shut off then it takes multiple pulls and tends to catch but not stay running, sometimes it runs but when throttle is applied bogs and dies. Sometimes it restarts just fine.
If I fill the tank all the way up it doesn't go. If I crack the gas cap it spits out a bit of gas.
Seems to work best when it is no more than 3/4 full.
I have tired tuning the low and high and idle but that has not cleared up the issues.

It runs fine at times and at other times it just catches and won't run and then it will and runs fine till shut off.

Also when the saw is being finicky and I turn it on it's side it will die.

Also it just doesn't seem as crisp as I think it should on the throttle but it has pulled a 36 inch bar in a 30 inch milling cut when my milling saw was down. (I had no idea it would do that) It was still finicky then but not to the degree that it is now.

The saw has 150 compression, piston looked good through the exhaust port.

I really like apart from this. I will be pretty excited once I clear this up.

Thoughts?

remove the tank vent and blow it out with compressed air. if that doesn't work? you may as well change the crank seals there's also a large rubber sealing O-ring on the oil pump housing which compresses against the crankcase wall , very easy to change the seals clutch side. CD

 

[Rosss]

remove the tank vent and blow it out with compressed air. if that doesn't work? you may as well change the crank seals there's also a large rubber sealing O-ring on the oil pump housing which compresses against the crankcase wall , very easy to change the seals clutch side. CD

The tank vent was $12 at the dealer so I bought one before i started this thread, but haven't installed it yet.
will do that and then see how it goes.

MY guess originally was that it was more than one thing, just wasn't sure what stuff it would be.

I was originally guessing vent and carb, but airleak seems to fit the symptoms well.

 

[Rosss]

Thank you to everyone who responded.
I haven't had time to do anything on the saw yet.
Will update as I do.

 

[captain dangers]

Thank you to everyone who responded.
I haven't had time to do anything on the saw yet.
Will update as I do.

you may also want to check the intake block/carb mount for cracks/bad gasket ? CD

 

[rupedoggy]

It was smoking when you first got it because the mix in there was old enough to be potty trained. That does not do the internals of the carburetor any good. I would rebuild it with a complete ultrasonic clean. If you know how that would be a good first step.

 

[Rosss]

I have installed the new tank vent, fuel filter and the crank seal on the clutch side.

Some improvement after the tank vent and filter.
Still stalls sometimes if while idling it is turned is turned on its side clutch side down.

I took the muffler off again and noticed a line down the cylinder wall, that I hadn't noticed before.
I have attached a picture.
The saw has always had starting, idling issues, more so idling, but had done a compression test at 175 a month before I posted here and comp was 150 ish.
I retested compression and get 145-150 and on a third try got 155-160

Is my next step to investigate the cylinder further?
That is the cylinder viewed through the exhaust port.

 

[captain dangers]

yip you will have to pull the cylinder and investigate. it looks like damage caused by debris rather than running lean or cold seizing . was the air filter in good condition or is it perforated in places? its not uncommon for chainsaws to suck in lumps of carbon from the exhaust port or exhaust if they flake off. a very common problem on the stihl 024 etc . you need to clean the cylinder before removing, and clean inside the crankcase inspect the little end bearing, piston/rings/wristpin clips for damage which may have caused the scoring. flip the saw upside down on a clean sheet of paper and see if any thing falls out of the crankcase ? CD

 

[Huskybill]

To adjust the low speed screw turn it in slowly while idling when it almost stalls open the screw 1/2 turn counter clockwise. Then adjust your idle speed if it needs it.

 

[JohnT34]

Definitely have to pull the cylinder and assess ring piston and cylinder
Do not dump the cylinder if any scoring is visible it can be easily salvaged with 400 grit wet n dry sandpaper. I would not run that piston and would replace with a meteor piston and caber ring
I think you need to assess the possibility of an air leak as well


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