Husqvarna L 65

[chuckwood]

Got a 65 and cannot get the hi speed to set. It idles not bad, but when rev it up, bogs after about 5 seconds. Nothing I do to set corrects the problem. Seems like it you pull the trigger repeatedly, it will catch and go for awhile, then bog again. Also, should the vent tube next to the carb, show signs of fuel when running? I rebuilt the carb with kit and clean it good.

I'll probably tear down again to check ignition. The switch is suspect too, as when running the switch doesn't work all the time. I replaced the ignition with solid state module including spark plug in 2014, but will check operation of module to rule out ignition. Also, will re-check carb, in case the screen is partially blocked. At least that way, I can rule these problems out. The fuel line was replaced and new filter installed, when I did the carb rebuild. Don't like the engines with the inside coils!
The fact that it will idle no bad, has me stumped.

Carb looks fine, after reviewing all components again. No reeds on the saw. The spark looks weak after testing. May replace module and the kill toggle switch. Seems erratic upon testing continuity.

Anyone know how to set stator plate timing? Originally when the module replaced the point/condensor, the stator was not removed. With the module don't know if the stator needs queeking.

I've been through a lot of carb problems with all my small engines , and things improved a *lot* when I switched over to using 100% gas only. Sometimes rebuild kits won't solve carb problems if a passage is blocked by something that won't dissolve in carb cleaning fluid. I now use an inexpensive Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner for all small engine carb rebuilds. The ultrasonic usually shakes loose any solid crud that could be clogging up those tiny carb passages. And sometimes not even the ultrasonic can fix things, and then it's time to try another carb. I'm a big fan of the 65's and 77's. They are heavy, but very tough, they can take a lot of abuse that the new plastic saws can't handle. My only complaint with them is the design of the air cleaner. There's not enough area on the base that they sit on, and dust gets sucked inside them. I fixed that, I hope, by making some gaskets to fit in between the air filter and the carburetor. I've seen those solid state ignition modules on ebay, I might try one sometime. If you run a 65 a lot, it's a good idea to purchase some parts saws on ebay to keep your good one going strong.

 

[Don Ens]

Thanks! I've used an ultrasonic cleaner for chainsaw and other 2-cycle carbs for several years now. The carb on the 65 was first cleaned with aerosol carb cleaner, then a bath in ultrasonic cleaner, twice! As you say, normal carb cleaning very often is not adequate, due to the very small passages. Thought of replacing the carb, but is not that easy to find. Also, shipping to Canada is often much too expensive, ie. shipping exceeds part substantially. Any thoughts on the timing, given the solid state module? How critical is the stator placement for triggering the module at the proper time. Really do not like the inside type coil, points and condenser is normal but that coil is a pain.

 

[Don Ens]

Thought, I would replace the fuel line in case it's deteriorated. According to the IPL, fuel line is 501426501, which has a form fitted grommet on the line to seal inside/outside tank. The replacement seems to be 503697201 which is a typical Husqvarna pigtail fuel line and one grommet. Anyone know if the grommet goes to inside or outside of tank? Is the grommet really necessary? Most of the Husqvarna saws don't take any grommet.

 

[chuckwood]

Thought, I would replace the fuel line in case it's deteriorated. According to the IPL, fuel line is 501426501, which has a form fitted grommet on the line to seal inside/outside tank. The replacement seems to be 503697201 which is a typical Husqvarna pigtail fuel line and one grommet. Anyone know if the grommet goes to inside or outside of tank? Is the grommet really necessary? Most of the Husqvarna saws don't take any grommet.

I don't quite understand what you mean by going to inside or outside. The grommet is difficult to install, and the only way to do it is from outside the tank. You have to slowly and carefully poke it into the hole with a small tool and hope you don't puncture the fuel line while you are doing it. It has rubber flanges on both sides that lock it in tight once you get it in there.

 

[SawTroll]

.... i wonder if that crank was shared by any other. it has the same stroke as the h 77.

The stroke of the 70E is 35mm, while it is 36mm on the H77. Other Jonsereds with a 35mm stroke are the 66E of course, and the 62/621 + the older 60/601.

 

[heyduke]

The stroke of the 70E is 35mm, while it is 36mm on the H77. Other Jonsereds with a 35mm stroke are the 66E of course, and the 62/621 + the older 60/601.

thanks for the info SawTroll. i have a 70e. someday it will live again, when i figure out how to remove the flywheel and clutch...

 

[Don Ens]

Thanks Chuckwood! Guess I didn't explain it very well, or realize the grommet was flanged on both sides.
On another note, re-posting the following, because I have checked and rechecked carb, re-cleaned with carb cleaner and ultra-sonic bath.

Got a 65 and cannot get the hi speed to set. It idles not bad, but when rev it up, bogs after about 5 seconds. Nothing I do to set corrects the problem. Seems like it you pull the trigger repeatedly, it will catch and go for awhile, then bog again. Also, should the vent tube next to the carb, show signs of fuel when running? I rebuilt the carb with kit and thorough cleaning.

I checked ignition again, good spark. Replaced the kill switch. I replaced the ignition with solid state module including spark plug in 2014, but will check operation of module to rule out ignition. Changed module with new one. The fuel line was replaced and new filter installed, when I did the carb rebuild. Don't like the engines with the inside coils!
The fact that it will idle very well, has me stumped.

Should I suspect the crank seals?

 

[chuckwood]

Got a 65 and cannot get the hi speed to set. It idles not bad, but when rev it up, bogs after about 5 seconds. Nothing I do to set corrects the problem. Seems like it you pull the trigger repeatedly, it will catch and go for awhile, then bog again. Also, should the vent tube next to the carb, show signs of fuel when running? I rebuilt the carb with kit and thorough cleaning.

Should I suspect the crank seals?

If you don't know the service history of the saw, and it's not running right, it's always a good idea to replace the crank seals. With a saw that old, the seals could go bad any day if they've not been replaced recently. With the vent tube, there is a small plug made out of fiber that lets air go through but prevents fuel from doing the same. Of course, that fiber plug is no longer available, so I use a cigarette filter there. The plug goes in the vent hose right above the nipple where it attaches to the body of the saw. It's not good if you see fuel in the vent hose. I think that vent nipple also has a one way valve in it. Good used carbs for the L65 are often available on ebay. You might want to try one and see if anything changes. It's always a good idea to have a spare carb anyway. A few years ago, I tore up the top end on a 65 when the screw holding the choke butterfly came back out and got sucked into the top end. When I rebuild carbs now, I make sure all screws are really tight.

 

[Rx7man]

I have 3 Husky 65's and another on the way, as well as a 77. Bottom ends are all the same including the 180-480 series. I think the solid state ignition from a 480 ought to fit on the 65's if you can find one.

A bit of porting work and they really come to life.

If you've rebuilt the carb and it's not working right, I suggest looking for a 5/8th bore carb (as opposed to the 9/16th on these).. I found there's a screen underneath the center welch plug on the bottom of it, I was able to get it out by poking a small bent nail through the venturi jet and giving it a tap.. I just entirely removed the screen and put the welsh plug back in, but while you're in there you can run a tiny wire through the orifice that goes to the H screw and make sure that's clean.. The carbs are simple enough there's not that much that can go wrong really.

Might want to check the diaphragm float level too.

A 24" bar is about perfect for these saws in stock form, I primarily do pine and fir.. On a ported saw I can set the rakers more aggressive and/or put a 28"... For hardwoods I can't say.

We had our first Husky 65 since the week I was born (Aug 1978)... and got 3 more (one is parts only).. One of them had a VERY worn ring with about .080" end gap.. it's a wonder it ran long enough to wear out that much.

Here's my mildly ported 65 in a piece of fir

 

[Rx7man]

As for crank seals, the ones on my saw are still good after all these years.. I'd sooner suspect carb/fuel filter.. Perhaps even the impulse port having a leak.. On the carb adapter I had one crack.. thankfully I noticed it before it really caused any problems..

 

[chuckwood]

As for crank seals, the ones on my saw are still good after all these years.. I'd sooner suspect carb/fuel filter.. Perhaps even the impulse port having a leak.. On the carb adapter I had one crack.. thankfully I noticed it before it really caused any problems..

Yeah, I think you are correct there. Through the years, most of my saw problems have always been fuel system/carburetor problems. Replacing seals is probably the very last thing to do after everything else you try doesn't work. The few saws I've had with seal problems do the following, rpm's climb slowly after you set the thing down at idle, and then it suddenly dies.

 

[Don Ens]

Thanks for the help! Rx7man; that 480 solid state seems to be pretty expensive. Not sure saw worth putting another $100 into it. Really think should replace fuel line/filter and change crank seals. Also, check that the input ports gaskets are leaking. The welch plug with the screen, is that the small screen with the retaining split ring? Chuckwood; not sure what you mean with the vent tube. There is nothing other than the check valve nipple and hose, nothing extra!

 

[Don Ens]

Forgot, is there any other suitable carb, I should be looking for that may work other than the HS-123A?

 

[chuckwood]

Thanks for the help! Rx7man; that 480 solid state seems to be pretty expensive. Not sure saw worth putting another $100 into it. Really think should replace fuel line/filter and change crank seals. Also, check that the input ports gaskets are leaking. The welch plug with the screen, is that the small screen with the retaining split ring? Chuckwood; not sure what you mean with the vent tube. There is nothing other than the check valve nipple and hose, nothing extra!

When I wrote vent tube I meant same as "hose". Welch plugs are sheet metal plugs that you remove with a tiny pick. The carb rebuild kit will usually include new welch plugs. You need to take them out before cleaning the carb because often there is dirt under them, and the cleaning fluid can't get in there to remove the crud if the plugs are still in place. There will be two plugs, one larger than the other. The carb kit should also include a new screen and retaining split ring. It's a good idea to remove that screen along with the welch plugs, that way all the small passages and holes in there get the carb cleaning fluid treatment. Tiny particles of dirt and sawdust can still get in these areas and build up, they are small enough to get past the fuel filter in the gas tank and build up into a deposit that can reduce or block fuel flow in the carb.

Crank seals aren't easy with the L65 points ignition crankshaft. On the flywheel side, there is a cam on the end of the crankshaft that is almost impossible to get the new seal to slide over without tearing up the seal. What I did was carefully cut some electricians tape to the width I needed, and I built up layers of tape on the crankshaft so the seal could slide over the obstruction. Down at the bottom, where the new seal will fit, there is a square "shoulder" on the shaft that the new seal will once again have to slide over in order to get to its final position. You'll have to put some tape in there as well so the seal can move down the shaft smoothly during installation. If you force it here, you can tear up the seal and have to start over. There is another similar shoulder on the clutch side of the crankshaft as well. I've included a pic here of what the flywheel side of the crank will look like with the obstructions on it you'll have to deal with during the new seal procedure. I had a tough time with mine getting the flywheel off, but I did it with some help from you tube videos showing various procedures to use. I was unable to figure out any way to use a puller on the L65 flywheel. With the Stihls I've done, I used a simple puller tool I bought on ebay that made it easy.

 

[Rx7man]

The points cam pulls off!.. that makes installing the seal much safer.

I wouldn't bother with the screen behind the welsh plug for the main jet.. The main jet orifice is big enough in most cases that the screen isn't actually doing anything.. except eventually getting plugged up.. without the screen the junk will just flow right through.

I'll look up the bigger carb I have on one saw... I think it was from a Homelite XL925.. I had to swap some throttle shafts and choke shafts around, but I can't remember the carb number off the top of my head.

For the ignition, I'd look for a junk 480 to take the ignition from, not look for new stuff. I think a common failure point nowadays on these saws are the condensers getting old and dried out, and gradually failing.
One of my saws has a funny misfire.. When you open the throttle up, it'll rev up, and die, then catch and die.. it's kinda as if you were flicking the kill switch on and off.. but no, it doesn't have the kill switch or even the wire left in it.. Once you put it in wood it'll work well.. I relubed the breaker point cam, cleaned everything. If the spring were weak I'd expect an erratic misfire at high RPM, not a total loss followed by perfect power again.. I'm thinking the coil or condenser are pooched.. I'll be getting some parts saws soon to swap more parts around and find the real culprit.

 

[Don Ens]

Rx7man: I believe my saw, same as chuckwood pic, is not a removable cam. I've seen other saws with a sleeve type cam but not on this one. Perhaps a newer version of the 65 did, I'm not sure. In terms of the welch plugs, I typically remove them before cleaning.

 

[Rx7man]

from what I see in Chuckwood's picture, it should be a removable cam... see that little groove between the cam an woodruff key for the flywheel? That tells me it is.. Also how else could they get the bearing on the shaft?.... Whatever works though, if it's simpler to just tape it to slide the seal over that's no skin off my back!
When I said I don't bother with the screen behind the welsh plug, I meant I don't bother putting them back in, I do bother taking them out and cleaning everything though, I don't know if I was unclear about that before

 

[Rx7man]

Just for future reference.. Mind which way it goes on... the cam has a built-in key that's offset toward the flywheel side, so if you try to put it on the wrong way you'll only get it halfway on. I'm sure I could have done it without the gear puller, it wasn't on too tight.. perhaps just a pair of screwdrivers and hitting it with a quick blast from a propane torch would have done the trick too.

 

[Don Ens]

Koodo's to Rx7man. Your logical comment concerning the bearing only makes sense. Great pics!

 

[Rx7man]

Glad I was able to enlighten you, and even more glad you we didn't need to fight about it

Cheers