Husqvarna L 65

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Great info from all. I'm working on an L65 for a customer. I still need to do a crankcase pressure/vac test but I'd like to be prepared for seal replacement ahead of time.
Can anyone list the part numbers for the replacement crankcase seals? I believe that they are different, clutch side vs. flywheel side.
What I mean is, I have old listed part numbers from IPL's. Can't locate any. Are there other more current/alternate part numbers that we can find on-line?

Arrow13
 
Husky 480 ought to have the same seal, if it's easier to get a crossreference for that.
If you get a generic metric seal, make sure it's a double lip!
 
1984 IPL shows 503 26 02-04 same part for 61 66 266 268 272 K750. Both sides are the same.

I know there plain ole metric seals as I replaced them before but don't think I still have the numbers here that I used.
OK, that's good news. I had a bit of confusion as the 1978 65L IPL has a different number and so does the 1981 65 (no L) IPL. The saw I'm starting to work on is a 65 ASS Practica model. I narrowed it down to the 65L model as it has the anti-vib handle on it. Thanks for you feedback!
 
1984 IPL shows 503 26 02-04 same part for 61 66 266 268 272 K750. Both sides are the same.

I know there plain ole metric seals as I replaced them before but don't think I still have the numbers here that I used.
Thanks for the quick reply! I'll plan to go with these numbers. Plenty of them around.
 
Husky 480 ought to have the same seal, if it's easier to get a crossreference for that.
If you get a generic metric seal, make sure it's a double lip!
Now that I did not think of was the double seal. Thanks for that tip!
 
"Also, should the vent tube next to the carb, show signs of fuel when running? I rebuilt the carb with kit and thorough cleaning."

Don...Today, I started up for the first time my L65 I'm reviving after an unknown period of sitting in a garage. So far, I've only replaced the fuel line and fuel filter and the vent liner. I have not rebuilt the carb. I poured some gas into the carb and it started on the 3rd pull. And when it ran out of its prime fuel, it stopped. And I noticed I had the same problem as you described, i.e. there was fuel in the vent how.

What did you end up doing to resolve this problem? Did you rebuild the carb? Or what?
 
"It's not good if you see fuel in the vent hose. I think that vent nipple also has a one way valve in it."

Chuckwood- Today, I started up for the first time my L65 I'm reviving after an unknown period of sitting in a garage. So far, I've only replaced the fuel line and fuel filter and the vent line hose. I have not rebuilt the carb yet. I poured some gas into the carb and it started on the 3rd pull. And when it ran out of its prime fuel, it stopped. And I noticed I had the same problem as you described, i.e. there was fuel in the vent how.

What did you suggest is the remedy? Do I rebuild the carb? Or what?
 
The L77 and saws of that era were designed to run on bar oil.I cut pulp in the mid seventies with a 77 the chain oil back then was pretty crude but the oiler worked good,I replaced it with a 162Se a world of difference with the anti vibe this saw set the future for Husky saws I still have it.The old oil debate was on back in 1979 Husky said 50to one with their oil or 25 to one with others,The two Swedes where I bought my 162 owned NORO SAW the largest sellers of Husqvarna saws in North America for many many years I showed them what it said about oil mixes.They laughed and said mix the oil at 25 to 1 or you will be back for a new saw in a couple of weeks.
Kash
 
The L77 and saws of that era were designed to run on bar oil.I cut pulp in the mid seventies with a 77 the chain oil back then was pretty crude but the oiler worked good,I replaced it with a 162Se a world of difference with the anti vibe this saw set the future for Husky saws I still have it.The old oil debate was on back in 1979 Husky said 50to one with their oil or 25 to one with others,The two Swedes where I bought my 162 owned NORO SAW the largest sellers of Husqvarna saws in North America for many many years I showed them what it said about oil mixes.They laughed and said mix the oil at 25 to 1 or you will be back for a new saw in a couple of weeks.
Kash

KASH-

1) Thanks for your response. 2) Thank -you for the advice on fuel/oil mixture. I'll be sure to follow it. 3) I just did a Google search for "Noro Saw" but could find no reference. Could you please send me the contact information for Noro Saw?
 
FOund one of those as a parts saw at the flea market for $5. Most of it was there including it had a chain brake on it. I parted the saw out over $200 and still have parts. They sold quick.
 
The L77 and saws of that era were designed to run on bar oil.I cut pulp in the mid seventies with a 77 the chain oil back then was pretty crude but the oiler worked good,I replaced it with a 162Se a world of difference with the anti vibe this saw set the future for Husky saws I still have it.The old oil debate was on back in 1979 Husky said 50to one with their oil or 25 to one with others,The two Swedes where I bought my 162 owned NORO SAW the largest sellers of Husqvarna saws in North America for many many years I showed them what it said about oil mixes.They laughed and said mix the oil at 25 to 1 or you will be back for a new saw in a couple of weeks.
Kash

Kash-

Another thing. I need a part for this chainsaw. I can't find the part sold under the Husqvarna brand. But I have located what looks like the same part with the same part number, only in this case it is sold by Jonsered. In particular, I need Husqvarna OEM part number #501267301, "Rubber Sleeve". Like I said, the Jonsered OEM part number is #501267301, "Shock Mount".

I think these are the same parts. Am I correct?
 
FOund one of those as a parts saw at the flea market for $5. Most of it was there including it had a chain brake on it. I parted the saw out over $200 and still have parts. They sold quick.

Yup...I'm going to keep looking for a parts/backup saw.
 
Noro Saw has been closed since the early nineties.One of the two Swedish owners used to stay a few times a year at our fishing resort.He died in a bush plane crash near Marathon Ontario Canada the shop closed a few years later.There were at least a dozen big saw shops here in ThunderBay Ontario they supplied all the paper company bush camps and the many private contractors like myself.All the camps are gone and the wood is supplied by a select few contractors a power saw is rare to see in use.Some of the wood I see going to the saw mills now is so small they would have culled it when we were selling it for pulp.They chip every thing for pulp they get every little twig .You almost want to cry when you see what is left of the largest conifers and boreal forest in the world.
Things are so bad I need an intake boot for a Stihl 032 the only dealer is a lawn mower shop that has never heard of an 032 and say their computers wont go that far back in time.Every thing brought in for repair gets the old beyond repair line we have this saw on sale.
A couple of years ago my buddy brought his Honda mower .He told them it was F66666 fix it. A week later he stops in they say your bill is 40.00 your mower is F666666 he says do you think I am going to pay you 40,00 so you can tell me what I told you when I dropped it off.He brought it home I fixed it in 10 min clutch brake stuck.
I think it helped at the saw shop as he is a solid 275 pounds.
Kash
 
When I wrote vent tube I meant same as "hose". Welch plugs are sheet metal plugs that you remove with a tiny pick. The carb rebuild kit will usually include new welch plugs. You need to take them out before cleaning the carb because often there is dirt under them, and the cleaning fluid can't get in there to remove the crud if the plugs are still in place. There will be two plugs, one larger than the other. The carb kit should also include a new screen and retaining split ring. It's a good idea to remove that screen along with the welch plugs, that way all the small passages and holes in there get the carb cleaning fluid treatment. Tiny particles of dirt and sawdust can still get in these areas and build up, they are small enough to get past the fuel filter in the gas tank and build up into a deposit that can reduce or block fuel flow in the carb.

Crank seals aren't easy with the L65 points ignition crankshaft. On the flywheel side, there is a cam on the end of the crankshaft that is almost impossible to get the new seal to slide over without tearing up the seal. What I did was carefully cut some electricians tape to the width I needed, and I built up layers of tape on the crankshaft so the seal could slide over the obstruction. Down at the bottom, where the new seal will fit, there is a square "shoulder" on the shaft that the new seal will once again have to slide over in order to get to its final position. You'll have to put some tape in there as well so the seal can move down the shaft smoothly during installation. If you force it here, you can tear up the seal and have to start over. There is another similar shoulder on the clutch side of the crankshaft as well. I've included a pic here of what the flywheel side of the crank will look like with the obstructions on it you'll have to deal with during the new seal procedure. I had a tough time with mine getting the flywheel off, but I did it with some help from you tube videos showing various procedures to use. I was unable to figure out any way to use a puller on the L65 flywheel. With the Stihls I've done, I used a simple puller tool I bought on ebay that made it easy.


View attachment 408383
Hey there any tips on how to get the drum off? Prior to exposing the points?
 
to get the flywheel off, I drilled some holes in a piece of flat plate that matched the holes in the flywheel, can't remember the pattern now, but I put some screws in and tensioned them, then gave the plate a good whack and it freed the flywheel.. the points cam isn't hard to pull, I used a small gear puller

20150303_095538_sm.jpg
for the PTO side, it's left hand thread on the clutch, impact gun in FORWARD will spin it off
 

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