Huztl FarmerTec MS380, MS381, 038 Build Kit Start to Finish

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Okay I disassembled the carb didn't find anything under the PIN but I did find a pinhole in front of the throat plate
Not sure if that's supposed to be there for some reasonView attachment 699707

Does it hold any pressure now? If it doesn’t then it’s the needle or the sealing surface it touches needs addressing. It’s got to seal. That hole is the idle circuit.
 
Check vent while install it does release vacuum pressure
Took carb apart adjusted the throat plate it was pretty much out of round didn't notice anything under the needle but went ahead and wiped it off ran a plastic toothpick through its sealing surface didn't find any gunk in there reassembled and it does hold a little more than.05 MPA
But if I pump it up more than that the pressure comes down to just above that
 

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Now after 10 minutes it's setting right on point .05 m p a
 
I am not ingoring ya. It just looks like you hear him better so I will let him assist you. I have hands on experience with it and my take is different and would require your cooperation. Not a good kit.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
I did a vacuum test with the vent out by blowing into the brass side of it then reinstall it in the saw used a bulb tester created vacuum and it released the bulb after just 10 seconds or so I don't know if we're going for a certain amount of negative pressure release but it does release the pressure which I guess would mean air can get in the tank but still can't get out of the tank so I don't know what the vent would have to do with that school me please
 
Check vent while install it does release vacuum pressure
Took carb apart adjusted the throat plate it was pretty much out of round didn't notice anything under the needle but went ahead and wiped it off ran a plastic toothpick through its sealing surface didn't find any gunk in there reassembled and it does hold a little more than.05 MPA
But if I pump it up more than that the pressure comes down to just above that

.06mpa is about 9psi so I would say that’s sealing.
 
Okay I took the throat plate back out modified it a little more and now I'm holding .08 steady
The throat plate was not sitting flush with the idle screw all the way out so I think that was holding the needle open a bit
Is there anything else I can make sure of while I'm in this carb
Thanks to everyone
 
And I think it would be good to have some kind of washer about 1/8 of an inch thick between the carb and the air filter to make a good seal
Don't know if a garden hose washer would be good to use with gas that size is about the right size if anyone has any thoughts I'd appreciate it
 
There must have been trash on the needle that I didn't see a little bit of black stuff had come off of it but I didn't see any sizable particles
I had to retune it after I put the car back on took a little bit of time
Okay I made this gasket out of a washer that's for a water heater The Saw runs really good with it no leaks after I finally got it tuned it's idling at about 4500 RPMs and maxing out about 13 any suggestions on where I should find tune0127191349_Film1.jpg
 
The idle is a little high. Spec is around 2500 I believe.
I would adjust the low using lean drop off method and get to at close to 3000 without the chain turning.
The High adjustment should be good as long as it’s still 4 stroking.
Your washer looks like it would work fine as long as it doesn’t affect the choke.
I’ve cut one out of gasket paper and it worked also. Makes the choke work better
 
Thanks for the info I had to get something to push the filter out a little bit cuz my little choke lever wouldn't engage at all
 
Without anything my choke lever won't even touch the choke lever on the air filter
 
Oh, I forgot the 380’s had that problem, I’m not sure.
What did you do on yours Bedford? Did yours have that problem.
 
I got the 380 tuned and I was able to cut some wood yesterday I noticed that the bottom screw on my fellings spike was broken any suggestions on how to remove that broken screw
 
I got the 380 tuned and I was able to cut some wood yesterday I noticed that the bottom screw on my fellings spike was broken any suggestions on how to remove that broken screw

Sorry to hear that. Have you got it out?
I would use a easy out or screw extractor. On small screws start by using a small drill bit then work your way up to the size needed for your extractor.
 
The original kit was very problematic. I took a gamble the timing was off and replaced the crank, rebuilt from the ground up. I am close to being finished. am at the point where i have good tests on the crankcase and cylinder. the flywheel which is oem should be here in the next few days and i can see if i blew my money. be great if all those door stops were put in service and gave the buyer what he bought to start with. the carb box was clean and dry. the area around the oiler was dry. i will have oem ignition and fuel circuit now

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9Q3gd5dU2LdxYJwXhrE6hR3zyypWIfXq
 
Sorry to hear that. Have you got it out?
I would use a easy out or screw extractor. On small screws start by using a small drill bit then work your way up to the size needed for your extractor.
I was able to remove the screw as I was drilling it out and progressing in size it actually screwed itself right out the back of the saw so that worked out good and I just shot some are in there and then resend it out with a threader
Thanks for the insight
 
Hey fellas, finished my 380 build. minus a few extra parts and 2 missing screws for the spikes

Can anyone help identify the missing parts and where they go?
 

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Hey fellas, finished my 380 build. minus a few extra parts and 2 missing screws for the spikes

Can anyone help identify the missing parts and where they go?
The 2 round parts go behind the carb around and inside the boot
 

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