I learned at least 2 things the other day

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KMB

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This past Saturday turned out to be a nice day, so as an after thought, I went out late in the afternoon to finish up a downed ‘recently’ dead Oak that I hadn’t had been able to get back to. I thought a few ‘fairly quick’ cuts and I’d be done…no such luck. To make the story shorter, the first thing I learned was that in a 30” to 38” Oak (dead), my 044 with the 28” bar NEEDS to have the skip chain SHARP to be able to cut PROPERLY. And the second thing I learned that I NEED a cant hook or peavey for a 30” to 38” Oak lying practically flat on the ground.

With a sharp chain, the 044 was not fast with the b&c mentioned in the bigger wood, but I was satisfied…for now until I somehow get into at least a 80+cc saw. I had thought that the tree was far enough off the ground to at least get through the bottom of each cut just enough that the bar wouldn’t get into the pasture ground. The first 4 cuts were ok, but the last 3 were the trouble ones. I used two 8” plastic wedges to try to open the cut and to provide a little ‘lift’, but not enough. There must have been some small rocks in the ground to knock the point/edge off of some of the teeth on the chain. Loosing day light, I tried to file the chain to finish the last 2 cuts, but it just wouldn’t cut properly. Switched to the spare/new chain and it was all good for 1 cut…until I pulled a bone head and cut into one of the plastic wedges on the last cut. It was enough to do the same thing to the chain as the first one (chain). I knew that a saw would not cut properly (and it is hard on the saw) with a dull chain, but it gets amplified when the b&c is close to the max for the saw and the wood (hardwood) is bigger than the bar length.

All this wouldn’t have happened if I had a cant hook or peavey to roll the log over. With smaller logs, I can man-handle the logs over to finish a cut without hitting the ground…but not with this one. I’m sure with a 60” handled cant hook or peavey I would have been able to roll the log over enough. So I’ll be starting to save for a Logrite, and doing some ‘searching and reading’ on what I think will work for me between a cant hook and peavey.

I was not about to leave the cut pieces, so in the dark I loaded 5 of the 6 ‘useable’ pieces on the trailer. The last piece (at the stump) was just to big for me too roll. Since I’m only a few miles from where I was cutting, I’ll come back and noodle it to load. I’ll have to noodle the other pieces to get on the splitter. I might have noodled them all on site, but it was dark and I was frustrated and not about to go home ‘empty handed’.

After 3 cuttings/trips this is what I had left this past Saturday:

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This is what I loaded and came home with. The biggest piece as 38" across. I have 2 more trees to cut on that will be close to this size...I need a bigger saw...and a tractor with a loader wouldn't hurt:

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Kevin
 
I tried out some felling wedges for the first time sunday...I should have bought some extras. :monkey:
 
We have all been there,Kevin.It's times like this when you'll be able to justify that tractor/loader you'll have some day(along with that Stihl 088).:chainsaw:
That kid of yours gets cuter with every new picture.

Yep. The tractor will have to wait for a very long time...after 'more truck' and owning my own trailer. A bigger saw is more realistic...scheming for a 6401-to-8400 or 7900 conversion. A 066 would be better...but to find a good runner that isn't beat-up and in need of a rebuild would probably cost more than my other plan. Of course it depends on what I could get a HD rental 6401 for.

Thanks for the compliment on my li'l girl.

Kevin
 
I had a local FFA student make me a cant hook/log jack, had him make it with a 10' long inch and a half handle for extra leverage, he made it of a picture in Baileys, I mean this thing is HD, I'm a little over 6-2 and 235 and it will take all the pressure I can put on it with out bending. He made it where it will reach around 24" logs. Cost me a whopping 25.00, you might check with your local high school if they have a FFA department they might be able to make one for you heavier and cheaper than the commercial units.
 
Hey

I have a tree that looks just like that at my place. I just got a new 029 with a 20" bar (have been using a really little saw up to now) so I think I can cut it up with my new saw. If the snow would go away I may give it a try. It is on the list for the summer cutting. Right now it is sitting in a 5 foot snow drift. I cannot wait to get cutting on it. There is a lot of wood in a tree like that.

Korey
 
I had a local FFA student make me a cant hook/log jack, had him make it with a 10' long inch and a half handle for extra leverage, he made it of a picture in Baileys, I mean this thing is HD, I'm a little over 6-2 and 235 and it will take all the pressure I can put on it with out bending. He made it where it will reach around 24" logs. Cost me a whopping 25.00, you might check with your local high school if they have a FFA department they might be able to make one for you heavier and cheaper than the commercial units.

Sounds like what I needed. FFA...I had to Google to find out what it's all about.

Kevin
 
I know what you guys mean when it comes to bucking some of these logs that are straight and lying virtually flat. I can use a leverage bar sometime myself. Nothing peeves me more than getting lower than I wan and catching ground. Usually somewhere along the log I can make a cut where there is enough clearance from the ground, and I can give it a 1/2 roll to finishe em all off.

Times 2 on the little gal.
 
Looks like you've still got a lot of work to do Kevin. LOL

I ran into a problem similar to yours awhile back but I was barely able to get a chain under the big log. I wrapped it around the tree and hooked it on the back side. Then I hooked it on my truck and rolled it over. I don't believe a cant hook or peavy wouldn't have done me any good since this log had big limb knubs on it.

I've been thinking about what if I can't get a chain underneath the log and might have a solution. If I can't dig a trench underneath of it I'll cut a V shaped groove on the back of the log I might be able to hook a chain loop in it and pull it over with my truck.
 
I know what you guys mean when it comes to bucking some of these logs that are straight and lying virtually flat. I can use a leverage bar sometime myself. Nothing peeves me more than getting lower than I wan and catching ground. Usually somewhere along the log I can make a cut where there is enough clearance from the ground, and I can give it a 1/2 roll to finishe em all off.

That usually is the case for me too...but not this time. A leverage bar might have helped because I was on a slight hill.

Times 2 on the little gal.

Thanks.

Kevin
 
I have been thinking about making a big giant steel wedge I can drive under the tree to lift it enough to finish the cut. I have the same problem, although I have a tractor, I can't always get it to the tree.
Those limb butts hanging all over oaks make rolling them a problem. I have tried hooks, but they just don't seem to work.
 
Looks like you've still got a lot of work to do Kevin. LOL

I ran into a problem similar to yours awhile back but I was barely able to get a chain under the big log. I wrapped it around the tree and hooked it on the back side. Then I hooked it on my truck and rolled it over. I don't believe a cant hook or peavy wouldn't have done me any good since this log had big limb knubs on it.

I've been thinking about what if I can't get a chain underneath the log and might have a solution. If I can't dig a trench underneath of it I'll cut a V shaped groove on the back of the log I might be able to hook a chain loop in it and pull it over with my truck.

Hmmmm...another reason for me to get a good length of chain. Something to think about. There is the thing about having enough room to maneuver a truck into position...but every situation is different. Thanks for that though.

And yeah, at least it should be easier rolling the pieces off of the trailer than it was to get them on. Quartering at least the 2 bigger pieces will let me get them on the splitter.

Kevin
 
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I have been thinking about making a big giant steel wedge I can drive under the tree to lift it enough to finish the cut. I have the same problem, although I have a tractor, I can't always get it to the tree.
Those limb butts hanging all over oaks make rolling them a problem. I have tried hooks, but they just don't seem to work.

So true!

Kevin
 
Ha...it just occurred to me (I missed danrclem already mentioning it) that digging a small trench under the log would have been things easier...:bang:

I guess I'll add a shovel to my truck bed when I go cutting...I think it would be good to have a shovel along anyway.

Kevin
 
:greenchainsaw: They seem smaller now for some reason.

:) I thought that is why. I also chewed the corner on one of my wedges up a little, but it's still very much usable. I'm usually more careful, but it was getting dark and I was frustrated.

Kevin
 
Your situation is the reason I own a bobcat with forks on it. But if I can't get the bobcat to it there is usually a tree close enough to put a come-along on & put a chain on the log so I can pull the log apart where my cuts are.
Buy a cant hook it was worth its weight in gold & saved my back many times.
 
Damn Kev, I read the title and had to tune in just to see how much blood or money those two lessons cost ya. :)

Good you didn't go or get broke. A come along can help and is easy to carry around.
 
Damn Kev, I read the title and had to tune in just to see how much blood or money those two lessons cost ya. :)

Good you didn't go or get broke. A come along can help and is easy to carry around.

Yep, yet another tool to add to the ever growing list.

Sorry to disappoint about no loss of blood or money...just a loss (waste?) of time. :)

Kevin
 

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