I re-heat treated aftermarket circlips

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Teat treated or not you have to double and triple check that they've clicked into place, making them spin a little with some pliers will ensure they're in the groove. Not saying you messed up, just some information for those who may be looking to replace their piston.

Don't stress it, just make it run and forget about these people they're not worth it. Problem is a bunch of brats can easily talk trash about you and ruin some of your income... Better be careful then.

They're going to be moving to either New Mexico or Mexico. :rock:

The husband is an okay guy I guess, but his wife is like those hi-maintenance rich chicks you see on tv.

Her ex-husband is a Dr. if that says anything. She's also got the long blonde hair, big teets, long nails. . . :msp_thumbdn:
 
Some of them "aftermarket" rings don't even feel like they're made of spring steel.

They have no memory. Have used inside retaining rings with no issues, just make sure they are tight.


Me thinks most failures of the A/M is due to installation error.

Exactly! A guy can find out real quick if they're just tie-wire twisted into a ring, or a hardenable material.

They feel as good as OEM now, so we'll see.
 
Exactly! A guy can find out real quick if they're just tie-wire twisted into a ring, or a hardenable material.

They feel as good as OEM now, so we'll see.

Not really installation error, more sub-par materials.

About the only way you could install with a hope of not damaging them would be to have a tapered bore, with a plunger to push them in.
 
They're going to be moving to either New Mexico or Mexico. :rock:

The husband is an okay guy I guess, but his wife is like those hi-maintenance rich chicks you see on tv.

Her ex-husband is a Dr. if that says anything. She's also got the long blonde hair, big teets, long nails. . . :msp_thumbdn:

NOW I see the chainsaw connection and understand the urgency.
 
Yeah, they seem to be up to snuff now. . . A lot harder to twist and they spring right back.

Again, they (the manufacturer) probably use okay material, they're just dropping the ball with their heat treating.

On the working for rich weirdos, I hear ya. I just have a hard time telling people no, and it usually get's me in trouble. :(

Did you quench those wrist pin clips in oil or a brine solution?

By the way JJ, the old school Poulans use heat "teated" square profiled snap rings with holed ears
for easy removal & I have yet to see one launched. But with respect, those old dogs only safely
spin up to 8 or 9 thousand RPM maximum!
 
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Did you quench those wrist pin clips in oil or a brine solution?

By the way JJ, the old school Poulans use heat "teated" square profiled snap rings with holed ears
for easy removal & I have yet to see one launched. But with respect, those old dogs only safely
spin up to 8 or 9 thousand RPM maximum!

Several of my old saws use snap rings as well. The difference is though, the pistons on those old saws have a groove with a square profile which matches the snap rings. The clip grooves on modern pistons are round.
 
There is all kinds of "heat treating". If you heated them to cherry red then quenched them that is flame surface hardening. Done with an electromagnet it is induction hardening.

While there are many methods and processes to heat treat metal, most ferrous metal requires a second step to increase ductility and fracture resistance.

Although the source is questionable, this info from Wikipedia speaks in laymans terms:


Tempering is a process of heat treating, which is used to increase the toughness of iron-based alloys. It is also a technique used to increase the toughness of glass. For metals, tempering is usually performed after hardening, to reduce some of the excess hardness, and is done by heating the metal to a much lower temperature than was used for hardening. The exact temperature determines the amount of hardness removed, and depends on both the specific composition of the alloy and on the desired properties in the finished product. For instance, very hard tools are often tempered at low temperatures, while springs are tempered to much higher temperatures. In glass, tempering is performed by heating the glass and then quickly cooling the surface, increasing the toughness.


Very few metals react to heat treatment in the same manner, or to the same extent, that steel does. Steel can be softened to a very malleable state through annealing, or it can be hardened to a state nearly as rigid and brittle as glass by quenching. However, in its hardened state, steel is usually far too brittle, lacking the structural integrity to be useful for most applications. Tempering is a method used to decrease the hardness, thereby increasing the ductility of the quenched steel, to impart some springiness and malleability to the metal. This allows the metal to bend before breaking. Depending on how much temper is imparted to the steel, it may bend elastically (the steel returns to its original shape once the load is removed), or it may bend plastically (the steel does not return to its original shape, resulting in permanent deformation), before fracturing. Tempering is used to precisely balance the mechanical properties of the metal, such as shear strength, yield strength, hardness, ductility and tensile strength, to achieve any number of a combination of properties, making the steel useful for a wide variety of applications. Tools such as hammers and wrenches require good resistance to abrasion, impact resistance, and resistance to deformation. Springs do not require as much rigidity, but must deform elastically before breaking. Automotive parts tend to be a little less rigid, but need to deform plastically before breaking.
Except in rare cases where maximum rigidity and hardness are needed, such as the untempered steel used for files, quenched steel is almost always tempered to some degree. However, steel is sometimes annealed through a process called normalizing, leaving the steel only partially softened. Tempering is sometimes used on normalized steels to further soften it, increasing the malleability and machinability for easier metalworking. Tempering may also be used on welded steel, to relieve some of the stresses and excess hardness created in the heat affected zone around the weld.[3]
Quenched-steel

Tempering is most often performed on steel that has been heated above its upper critical (A3) temperature and then quickly cooled, in a process called quenching, using methods such as immersing the red-hot steel in water, oil, or forced-air. The quenched-steel, being placed in, or very near, its hardest possible state, is then tempered to incrementally decrease the hardness to a point more suitable for the desired application. The hardness of the quenched-steel depends on both cooling speed and on the composition of the alloy. Steel with a high carbon-content will reach a much harder state than steel with a low carbon-content. Likewise, tempering high-carbon steel to a certain temperature will produce steel that is considerably harder than low-carbon steel that is tempered at the same temperature. The amount of time held at the tempering temperature also has an effect. Tempering at a slightly elevated temperature for a shorter time may produce the same effect as tempering at a lower temperature for a longer time. Tempering times vary, depending on the carbon content, size, and desired application of the steel, but typically range from a few minutes to a few hours.
Tempering quenched-steel at very low temperatures, between 66 and 148 °C (151 and 298 °F), will usually not have much effect other than a slight relief of some of the internal stresses. Tempering at higher temperatures, from 148 to 205 °C (298 to 401 °F), will produce a slight reduction in hardness, but will primarily relieve much of the internal stresses. Tempering in the range of 260 and 340 °C (500 and 644 °F) causes a decrease in ductility and an increase in brittleness, and is referred to as the "tempered martensite embrittlement" (TME) range. This range is usually avoided. Steel requiring more strength than toughness, such as tools, are usually not tempered above 205 °C (401 °F). When increased toughness is desired at the expense of strength, higher tempering temperatures, from 370 to 540 °C (698 to 1,004 °F), are used. Tempering at even higher temperatures, between 540 and 600 °C (1,004 and 1,112 °F), will produce excellent toughness, but at a serious reduction in the strength and hardness. At 600 °C (1,112 °F), the steel experiences another stage of embrittlement, called "temper embrittlement" (TE), so heating above this temperature is also avoided.[3]
Normalized steel

Steel that has been heated above its upper critical temperature and then cooled in standing air is called normalized steel. This produces steel that is much stronger than full-annealed steel, and much tougher than tempered quenched steel. However, added toughness is sometimes needed at a reduction in strength. Tempering provides a way to carefully decrease the hardness of the steel, thereby increasing the toughness to a more desirable point. Cast-steel is often normalized rather than annealed, to decrease the amount of distortion that can occur. Tempering can further decrease the hardness, increasing the ductility to a point more like annealed steel.[8] Tempering is often used on carbon steels, producing much the same results. The process, called "normalize and temper", is used frequently on steels such as 1045 carbon steel, or most other steels containing 0.35 to 0.55% carbon. These steels are usually tempered after normalizing, to increase the toughness and relieve internal stresses. This can make the metal more suitable for its intended use and easier to machine.[9]
 
I put in two meteor 460 pistons yesterday and the circlips that came with them seemed to better than any I had seen from them previously.
 
I just have a hard time telling people no

So, can you buy me four cases of Hamm's, two 046s, two 32" Stihl Light bars, and a roll of square chain? I'll be there next week to pick 'em up :hmm3grin2orange:
 
Interesting. Think I would have found a perverse pleasure in letting the wife know she'd have to wait until new clips came in. :hmm3grin2orange: Just think though, you're lucky--you're not married to her.
 
Yes, same saw. I built it for him pre-Turkey Day. He calls 4 tanks in to a log truck load he was bucking, said the saw just quit.

I asked if he had bucked enough to get him through for a while, and he said yeah no worries, he was heading out of town for work anyway.


He also knows I have nothing to do with guaranteeing aftermarket (or even OEM) parts -- and I don't want to eat the labor unless it was something I did to the saw.

Long story short, I'll eat two port jobs to get this rich guy a saw he'll use twice then park. The reason he wanted this one fixed, was he is too cotton picken cheap to have a shop fix it with OEM, or go get a throw away saw to get him through until he moves.

I did some work for him earlier this year, and made the mistake of showing him what a ported saw and sharp chain can do. Well, then he wants one too.

I wouldn't mind this whole situation -- but his wife's verbiage and tone was like I'm their boy, and better please the mast'ah. :msp_thumbdn:

Rich people give me the heebie jeebies.

Why eat anything? If he decided to go cheap, and you did your part correctly it's on him. Tell his wife pound sand, it will be done when you told him it will. What do you care if they send you anymore work if you dislike their greif, it's an easy way to say no.
 
Would this be a bad time to ask where my springboard shoes are? :hmm3grin2orange:

If they're not ready I promise I won't have the wife call you up and snarl at you.

You could bring it up, but then I'd feel even more like a cull fer not having them to you yet. :doubt:
 
Why eat anything? If he decided to go cheap, and you did your part correctly it's on him. Tell his wife pound sand, it will be done when you told him it will. What do you care if they send you anymore work if you dislike their greif, it's an easy way to say no.

Oh, they'll be plenty pissed. . . She demanded it be done the day after she called. :dizzy:

I told her I'd do the best I could.

These AM kits need a lot of work to make them into a runner, specially an open port 55.

We'll see what happens, but in my experience working with a lot of wealthy people in my life, they got that way by figuring out ways to keep their money.
 
Oh, they'll be plenty pissed. . . She demanded it be done the day after she called. :dizzy:

I told her I'd do the best I could.

These AM kits need a lot of work to make them into a runner, specially an open port 55.

We'll see what happens, but in my experience working with a lot of wealthy people in my life, they got that way by figuring out ways to keep their money.

Do we have time for me to shoot you an OEM 55 cylinder via Priority mail? That way you'd just have to use the piston.
 
Do we have time for me to shoot you an OEM 55 cylinder via Priority mail? That way you'd just have to use the piston.

I appreciate the offer mang, but these guys are gonna not want to pay as it is -- they will get the parts they bought.

I'm locked in too as I've already started to modify the parts.
 
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