If you had a choice - what size tree would you choose to cut

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mainewoods

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Aug 31, 2009
Messages
2,939
Reaction score
6,053
Location
Western Maine
I am fortunate enough to own a 50+ acre, heavily forested woodlot. I can pick and choose whatever diameter tree I prefer, so my choices are limitless. Most of the trees I cut are smaller (8-12") just to thin out the woods and promote growth of the larger trees. I find that the smaller wood is easier and faster to process, splitting is faster ( less splits) and handling is a lot less strain than bigger diameter wood. Over half of the wood I cut does not require splitting at all and stays as rounds. Everyone has their preference, but I find smaller wood adds up just as fast as as really large wood by the time you have wrestled those huge chunks around and split them multiple times. Add noodling to the mix and you have increased the time taken to process even more. So, if you had a choice , what size would YOU really choose?
 
I am fortunate enough to own a 50+ acre, heavily forested woodlot. I can pick and choose whatever diameter tree I prefer, so my choices are limitless. Most of the trees I cut are smaller (8-12") just to thin out the woods and promote growth of the larger trees. I find that the smaller wood is easier and faster to process, splitting is faster ( less splits) and handling is a lot less strain than bigger diameter wood. Over half of the wood I cut does not require splitting at all and stays as rounds. Everyone has their preference, but I find smaller wood adds up just as fast as as really large wood by the time you have wrestled those huge chunks around and split them multiple times. Add noodling to the mix and you have increased the time taken to process even more. So, if you had a choice , what size would YOU really choose?


I would measure the opening in my wood stove door, and cut all the dead standing trees that were the size or smaller, so I didn't have to split them to burn it. Also cut all the leaners and dead fallen trees that size first, if they aren't rotted.

Then go up in diameter from there, having to split it as you go.

Leave the biggest ones for last.
 
24" and under works fine for me. I'd prefer not noodling rounds but sometime ya got no choice. Can't bear to leave good wood lay just because it's too big or too heavy to lift.

Have found that with smaller trees - say, 8" to 12" - ya do a lot more cutting to get your wood. I've taken several smaller ones, ugly leaners and other junk trees just to make the woods look better. But my preference is bigger trees. More splits versus the number of bucking cuts.
 
Since I got larger saws, around 30 inches. Works good with a 3 foot bar. Get plenty of small stuff from the branches, and medium sized stuff. I like one tree, multiple cords.

It doesn't matter a lot though, I was a one saw plan, 30 cc class for like years and years and took mostly all small stuff, kept warm fine.
 
12" for the splitter and 1 pass on the 4-way
20" so I can still lift it without noodling and get plenty of nice splits with the ole Fiskars (my exercise)

Found a great use for my neighbors horrible ability to cut similar lengths - the shorties (10" and under) I have my 4 yr old daughter split into kindling by me holding a hatchet and her using a dead blow hammer. Couple of chunks here and there and she's interested and has fun and we make some kindling for next year. This is straight pine, so easy enough, any knots go for the firepit.
 
10-20" is the most fun. Anymore or less and there's a lot of extra work (still worth it though).

The older I get the more I prefer cutting 10" to 20" max as well. Without wishing to stray too far off topic on this thread, does anyone feel the 562xp is overkill for 10 to 20" wood cutting?
 
Last edited:
I do cut a lot of wood bigger than 12" also. I like 8" because it doesn't need to be split and I have a lot of it.
 
For years I have only cut small ash trees.(24" and under). I've got some bigger saws and a 23 ton splitter and the last 2 years I have taken on more huge trees than ever. I take what I can get, but rolling those huge rounds under the splitter has been taking its toll on my back. I think I will have to invest into a lift for the splitter. Enclosed is a pic of one of the big ones I cut and split recently.IMG_20131226_125929_958.jpg
 
In all actuality, any size is fine with me as long as a: I'm not paying for the wood, b: it's not rotten and c: it;s at LEAST as hard as a Silver Maple... Luckily I'm fortunate to have access to somewhere between 3-7K acres between Family and friends which has everything from Piss Elm to Hedge and mostly on the harder end of things... The biggest problem is finding the time.
 
I like 'em BIG
The bigger they are the more firewood ya' make before ya' haf'ta load/move/unload tools and equipment or clear new felling and work areas.
If I can spend the whole weekend, or two, or even three working in the same spot I figure I'm time way ahead in the game.
Because I do everything except stacking right at/in the felling area (bucking, splitting and loading), big works best for me (plus, ya' haul less bark and end up with a ton of bark-less splits).
*
 
Back
Top