If you only want ONE saw, this is it...(w/pics).

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Mr_Super-hunky

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If you only want to own a single chainsaw, the Dolmar 5100 may possibly be the perfect "all around" saw.

Why?, because it is not too heavy (@ 11 lbs-ish) to be easily used for limbing, while still having plently of power (@ 4 hp) to cut down larger sized trees.

This saw may possibly also be the smoothest running saw available and is insanely fast (@ 14,500 rpm's).

I had seriously considered the Stihl ms361 as the perfect "all around" saw but at around $600 for the 361, the Dolmar seems like a steal at only $375 and can easily cut down large trees as well due to its respectable power and super-speed.

I had recently cut around 5 cords of wood and the saw performed flawlessly. It is by far the easiest saw to start and always starts up on the very first pull after the initial pull or two on choke.

The rounds in the picture are approx 24'' and the 5100 cut through it with no problems; quickly too!. Obviously with my 18'' bar, I had to make two cuts (one on each side) of the rounds. Even keeping the bar totally burried in the wood, it was still able to keep cutting very fast as long as I did not apply too much pressure.

I would very much recommend anyone looking to purchase a single saw to check this one out. A Pro-level (magnesium case) saw with the specs (and price) of the Dolmar may be hard, if not impossible to beat.

LargeOakrounds001.jpg
 
Looks like that round has a lot of rot in it... ;)

Ian


Nope, none at all but the ground was very wet which may explain the browner color in the middle.

BTW, I had a local saw shop grind down the rakers on my chain which really makes this saw cut even faster. I can definitely feel a slight kickback when I hit a knot or a hard spot so I keep a super-grip on the saw all the time.

I'm not sure if grinding the rakers down a bit is the safest thing to do, but the cutting results are very noticable. It now has a very aggresive *bite*.
 
Nope, none at all but the ground was very wet which may explain the browner color in the middle.

BTW, I had a local saw shop grind down the rakers on my chain which really makes this saw cut even faster. I can definitely feel a slight kickback when I hit a knot or a hard spot so I keep a super-grip on the saw all the time.

I'm not sure if grinding the rakers down a bit is the safest thing to do, but the cutting results are very noticable. It now has a very aggresive *bite*.

Hunky,

I did the same on my 440, It rips through wood now. The only problem is if i get in some real tough stuff like elm, the saw jumps around alot and grabs and halts the chain if i try to cut through too quick, but for most other stuff especially softer woods its sick!


Craig
 
he's still trying to show off the super hunky house!

It is a nice house!! Congrats.:heart:


My 'all rounder' is a little bit more super-hunky.:hmm3grin2orange:


Seriously, good all round size. Maybe in the 60cc range would be better.
 
In my opinion, It's a waste of time cutting wood that large with a 50cc saw. How long did each round take to cut? Let's say you take 20 seconds, which is generous. Cut with a larger saw, say an 066 or 394, you would be saving mucho time. You said 24", I have my 365 husky out long before the logs get that big. I am usually on to the 394 with stuff that large. I get what you say about if you could only have one saw. If I could only have one, it would be my 365.
 
I love my 5100 too,it is a balance of power,speed and low low vibration.
wait till that puppy breaks in and the power really kicks in!!!;)
 
I bet the dolmar 5100 is a sweet saw but I am sold on my stihl ms361 as a perfect saw!!! Pricey yes, But can not think of a better saw for my needs. Very nice pad you have there!!!:greenchainsaw:
 
Nope, none at all but the ground was very wet which may explain the browner color in the middle.

BTW, I had a local saw shop grind down the rakers on my chain which really makes this saw cut even faster. I can definitely feel a slight kickback when I hit a knot or a hard spot so I keep a super-grip on the saw all the time.

I'm not sure if grinding the rakers down a bit is the safest thing to do, but the cutting results are very noticable. It now has a very aggresive *bite*.

Ewwwwwwwwwwwww you be carefull about that very aggresive *bite* your talking about there. That hard bite can take a hard bite out of your crank bearings, especially the clutch side. If its cutting smooth through the wood its fine, if its grabbing and jerking as it cuts thats not good. Those bearings are taking the blunt of those jerks and grabs, especially the clutch side bearing so be sure its cutting smooth with those rackers ground down.

That 5100 is one mean little saw, no question about it.
 
BTW, I had a local saw shop grind down the rakers on my chain which really makes this saw cut even faster. I can definitely feel a slight kickback when I hit a knot or a hard spot so I keep a super-grip on the saw all the time.

I'm not sure if grinding the rakers down a bit is the safest thing to do, but the cutting results are very noticable. It now has a very aggresive *bite*.

It's pretty easy to take the rakers down a bit, you don't need a saw shop to do it; just get a flat file and a chain gauge and have at it. Not much precision is required. Beware of running too low rakers, not only does a "grabby" chain increase the chance of kickback, but it also hammers the clutch-side crank bearings.

The better route is to run a sharp chain with 0.020" to 0.025" rakers. The chain will cut smoother, be less grabby and let you use all that 14.5k rpm.

My 2 cents on an "all around saw" would be the 7900. Run it with an 18 inch bar and an 8 tooth 3/8ths sprocket for small stuff and switch to a 28 inch bar with a 7 tooth for the big stuff.
 
Sorry, if you want to live life with one saw, you are hanging around the wrong bunch of guys. If, for some reason I had to have one saw, and one saw only, it would have to be a 60cc class saw, right now today, it would be my 372, okay, a 70cc class saw.

If I had to mill with it, it would be my 066, which sucks as a limbing saw. Nope, I'd have to have two saws minimum. Which is why I have 5 "users"...make sense?

Mark
 
Sorry, if you want to live life with one saw, you are hanging around the wrong bunch of guys. If, for some reason I had to have one saw, and one saw only, it would have to be a 60cc class saw, right now today, it would be my 372, okay, a 70cc class saw.

If I had to mill with it, it would be my 066, which sucks as a limbing saw. Nope, I'd have to have two saws minimum. Which is why I have 5 "users"...make sense?

Mark



What I was going to say (except 440 instead of 372)!!!:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:
 
Sorry, if you want to live life with one saw, you are hanging around the wrong bunch of guys. If, for some reason I had to have one saw, and one saw only, it would have to be a 60cc class saw, right now today, it would be my 372, okay, a 70cc class saw.

If I had to mill with it, it would be my 066, which sucks as a limbing saw. Nope, I'd have to have two saws minimum. Which is why I have 5 "users"...make sense?

Mark

What I was going to say (except 440 instead of 372)!!!:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

I think the 2165, the 365, or the 038(?) is more suited to 'all round use. These saws have a lower peek power (or broader power band) to grunt through when required. The 70cc class saws mentioned above a more speed related.
 
What I was going to say (except 440 instead of 372)!!!:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

If I had a 440, I would have put down 440. I was narrowing it down to my current stable.

This place has made me less stupider and more saw-worthy. I'm flattered by your bowed-downedness. Thank you, Andy.

BTW, I was actually going to put down a 361, but thought better of it. Didn't want to start anything again...know what I mean?

Mark
 
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