If you were to build a new splitter?

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Dobbs

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35 yrs ago we built a splitter.
I think hoses an the control valve
was the only new parts. We had everything else around the farm. It is gone.
I have been looking at new ones.
Like the TW5 ,Mighty Ox, and others.
Just seems silly to buy when I have the tools to build one. Brother-in law has a machine shop.
So that bring said who's parts to use? Who's pumps an cylinders are the best?
I would like to try my best to use made in the USA parts on every thing I can.
Thanks
Dave
 
I used a 22 gpm pump from surplus supply, a HF Predator motor, a used 4" x 30" cylinder and a couple of used valves. I had to go as low cost as I could. After about a year of use I am very happy with it.
 
they are really all good. its just up to you as to what you use. barnes, haladex, prince, red lion, brand, ...... all good names. shop around for the better price. it can be whatever you want it to be. thats the beauty of building your own vs buying. price for most is the limiting factor. do some reading on here. ask questions. read some more. shop prices. ask.... read.... you get the picture.

two of my favorite places are Northern Tools and Surplus Center
 
I'd think about one of those cheap Chinese diesel engines as well.

I'd also consider putting in vertical pipes in the hydraulic tank for cooling (natural convection), mount the whole thing on a real trailer frame so you can cruise at 65mph.
 
I believe they do run at 3600RPM. Yep. 10HP @ 3600RPM, 8.6HP @ 3000.
 
By far, I like this design the most of the splitters I've seen, though I would have the ram/beam tilt down for travel instead of have the ram extend vertically.

 
dang never would of thought that so never researched them for a replacement motor .
I have plenty of off road diesel;)

most single cylinders diesel's I have worked on spun around 2,200 and they were on smooth drum vibrators.
thanks for education!
 
I think the one I mentioned was meant as a direct drop-in replacement for the average lawn mower/garden tractor engine, so it has to spin faster.
 
If I built my splitter over, it would be reversed, with the wedge away from the tongue. Makes everything easier when it comes to keeping the splits out of the way. I would also make it so the controls can be run from either side so I don't have to stop and think about which way to drive up to the wood pile/

Ted
 
Number 1 consideration is to have the beam height at a comfortable height. For most folks this will waist height.

If you glance at my avatar you will see the hitch is where the out-feed tables are. This is because at the time I was splitting into the back of my one ton truck. Next splitter will split to the rear so the splits will go into a trailer.

My current splitter has a 5' wide axle for stability going highway speeds while pulling a trailer behind it. I will be doing the same thing with the new splitter only the axle will be located under the out-feed tables.

If you are going larger than a 16 gpm pump you will need to use 3/4" hoses & ports for everything going to the valve/cylinder. Leaving the valve going back to the reservoir if you want to go bigger you can but don't have to. Make the suction hose going from the reservoir to the pump the same size as the pump's inlet.

Mount the reservoir higher than the pump if possible to help prevent dry starts. If you mount the filter higher than the reservoir & in a location where you can hold a can/drain pan under it, you will minimize lost fluid & mess when changing the filter.

If you plan to split in >= 90°F an oil cooler would be a smart addition. You can find them used from combines with 3/4" ports for around $100. You want to keep the oil temperature < 180°F.

If you look at the wedge systems commercial wood processors use you will see they are narrow & tall. This will allow you to cut through really gnarly & stringy pieces with less effort. My wedge is 21" high with the 4-way installed.

I like a longer log lift where the angle at the bottom around 120°. This makes it easier to load larger rounds & holds more rounds when using it as a staging table.

I split everything I can find. Elm, Hedge, ... with a 4" cylinder, 16 gpm 2 stage pump with the pressure relief set at 2,500 psi using a 4-way wedge 95% of the time. Cycle time is 8.8 sec with a 24" stroke.
 
I would have the cylinder built for faster return , a bigger ram than standard cylinder makes for a really fast cycle time
and it is a lot safer to put the extra speed there than on extension side.
try to build it with no 90 degree fittings (might be ugly) but would reduce a lot heat build up
or add a oil cooler to the system.
a few holes drill in the top of the I beam at different lengths from the wedge to drop a bolt in for return stops for the cylinder return
instead of going the full length and not having to jack with cylinder stop donuts.
log lift
4 way
 
I look at the top of the line log splitters I quess they all got it wrong. They use 90 degree elbows and reservoirs smaller then their pump capacities.
The optimum operating temperature for hydraulic fluid is 120-140 degrees. ( a domastic water heater runs at 130 degrees average )
 
Oh, another thing I would add would be a hydraulic 4 and 6 way for the wedge. Be awesome to be able to center it on each log instead of having to re-split them. Now, it goes without saying that there would be a hydraulic log lift on there as well. One of my splitter has one and it's the cat's meow!

Ted
 
Disappearing 4 way wedge would be sweet...I think Built-rite does that. Some kind of hydraulic drive system so that you don't need a tractor/4-wheeler/utv to move it. As soon as I find the right donor zero turn, I think the TW-6 is going under the knife.
 
An older guy that let me hang around his machine shop years ago used to build industrial log splitters. He even made the huge hydraulic cylinders himself and they had a very large rod on them to help with return speed (less fluid volume on the rod side) (on a 17X80 metal lathe). His design used a pair of vertically moving plates that could lift the log up off the beam with spring assist to center it on the 6-way wedge he built. Ran a 26GPM pump, regenerative valve, and an 18HP Onan engine. A friend of my dad had one and it split huge nasty oak like nobodies business.

For fittings, any 90deg ones should be the curved-pipe type that have a gentle bend to them. Like this:

term-4497.jpg
 
Hedge hog, do you think having a ram stop off center like that, using something bolted to the beam, would be hard on the rod/cylinder vs. something that fits over the rod itself?
 

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