I'm not a Stihl chain expert, so help, Please

[bchannell]

I've got an 026 Pro, I bought a 16" bar and chain for it, with a full chisel chain. It came with a semi chisel 20" bar and chain, and the 20" chain has doubled rakers, it's a safety chain. The 20" is slightly, lightly used, and the 16" is new.
One would guess that the 16" would cut better, faster.
Here's the question, the 16" doesn't cut for sour apples, ( tried on hard maple), but the 20" is a beast and cuts like a hot knife thru butter in the same maple.
Any ideas?
Here's the pics of the chains, first the 20"

and now the 16"

 

[lone wolf]

The 16 should cut faster, is it dull? Didnt it cut faster out of the box?

 

[zogger]

Subscribing

 

[LowVolt]

Dumb question.... Was it on backwards?

 

[CTYank]

Semi-chisel, the 20", is more difficult to dull to the point where it won't cut. Full-chisel will behave like someone hit a switch, once the point at the lead of the top plate goes dull. Pix aren't great, but it looks like the chisel chain has gone dull at the "point".

Both chains look like they've been gotten hot in some low-moisture wood, e.g. white ash. The gullets of the cutters also look dirty. They should show shiny metal with file marks. Oiling probs?

It's easy to check cutters for sharpness with a finger. I'd suggest doing that after a proper filing. They need that. Then check that they get enough oil when cutting. Some stihl bars have a problem with that, and need oil passages drilled out, I'm told.

File early, file often- every other fill-up at least.

 

[bchannell]

The 16" was brand new, the 20" was used some, but fairly sharp. I'm still getting used to the sharpening and maintenance of chains, but I'll get it together with time.

 

[lone wolf]

The 16" was brand new, the 20" was used some, but fairly sharp. I'm still getting used to the sharpening and maintenance of chains, but I'll get it together with time.

Did it cut good at first?

 

[bnmc98]

file both then test again

 

[fearofpavement]

Semi-chisel, the 20", is more difficult to dull to the point where it won't cut. Full-chisel will behave like someone hit a switch, once the point at the lead of the top plate goes dull. Pix aren't great, but it looks like the chisel chain has gone dull at the "point".

Both chains look like they've been gotten hot in some low-moisture wood, e.g. white ash. The gullets of the cutters also look dirty. They should show shiny metal with file marks. Oiling probs?

It's easy to check cutters for sharpness with a finger. I'd suggest doing that after a proper filing. They need that. Then check that they get enough oil when cutting. Some stihl bars have a problem with that, and need oil passages drilled out, I'm told.

File early, file often- every other fill-up at least.

I have or have had about 30 Stihl chainsaws and never had to drill out anything related to oiling. What do you mean by this?

 

[CR888]

l have not cut wood from your region however if this maple stuff IS really hard......well full chisel is virtually useless. When l buy saws from the US, they normally come with full chisel RS chain and l know its a fine chain, but just not in hard wood, thus having quite a few loops hanging on the wall unused. Full chisel will dull in our wood in 1 or 2 cuts in aussie wood, semi-chisel is the way to go for us. Semi chisel aint slow chain if filled/grinded correctly. ln the pics l can still see your semi is sharp by looking at it. The full chisel does not look completely blunt...but well on its way. Good luck! l love chain!

 

[sunfish]

Nothing wrong with the semi chisel, it's about all I use anymore. Nothing wrong with that small extra bump at the raker either. Not what I call safety chain...

 

[CTYank]

I have or have had about 30 Stihl chainsaws and never had to drill out anything related to oiling. What do you mean by this?

I'd hoped it would be obvious. Largely, I listen to others' stories for trends. Of recent years many Stihl owners have mentioned about the oil hole. Just passing that along if it helped. Didn't mean to ruffle feathers. One could do a search here if really interested.

Some who mentioned it speculated that it was a way to please gummints by reducing oil spray. And, the chain pix sure looked dry, to me.

 

[longbowch]

Nothing wrong with the semi chisel, it's about all I use anymore. Nothing wrong with that small extra bump at the raker either. Not what I call safety chain...

I am also a big fan of semi-chisel. Most of what I cut is hard and dry. A couple weeks ago I had two big willows go down in my pasture, they cut ok with semi, but when I tried to noodle them I thought the chain was dull. I swapped chains and same result. So I tried full chisel and it cut like butter. I guess there is a purpose for each chain.

 

[Philbert]

What brand is the 16" chain? Does not look like STIHL chain.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Some stihl bars have a problem with that, and need oil passages drilled out, I'm told..

What do you mean by this?

Some guys have drilled the oil holes in their bars slightly larger in order to try and get a higher flow of oil to their chain (I have not personally tried this).

Philbert

 

[fearofpavement]

I'd hoped it would be obvious. Largely, I listen to others' stories for trends. Of recent years many Stihl owners have mentioned about the oil hole. Just passing that along if it helped. Didn't mean to ruffle feathers. One could do a search here if really interested.

Some who mentioned it speculated that it was a way to please gummints by reducing oil spray. And, the chain pix sure looked dry, to me.

My feathers aren't ruffled, just a bit confused. I've never seen an oiling issue on a Stihl saw related to the bar hole size. Perhaps the newer 1 series saws are different as I have never operated one of those (271, 261, 441, etc)

 

[LegDeLimber]

Dumb question.... Was it on backwards?

Has The 16" been mounted more than once? Those top plates look like they've been run both ways.
The corner of the cutter on top of the brake handle looks pretty rounded.

 

[MustangMike]

A few things:

What brand are each chain? Often, Stihl chain is sharper from the factory than other brands, if you did not sharpen them, this could be your problem.

Check the raker depths on both chains. The 16" looks like the rakers are much deeper, perhaps too deep for an 026.

Full chisel should cut faster if both are sharp, all else being equal. But if your rakers are too deep for your saw, it will slow it down.

Try sharpening the full chisel and see what happens.

Good Luck!

 

[2dogs]

I would refile the chisel chain to 25-30 degrees. It appears to be around 40 degrees now but I may just be interpreting the picture wrong. Check your depth gauge height too and set it at the OEM specs. I have seen far more depth gauges set too low than too high. If you can't find the spec then try .0025 as a start. For me I am finding I have to file the chain out of the box before it performs well. That was never an issue in the past.

I would not redrill the oil holes in a Stihl bar. Your chain should not look wet. The oil should be directed to the inside surfaces of the chain, not the outside.

 

[AKDoug]

Once again, what brand are those chains? They are not Stihl chains. Neither are sharp.