In Need of a Little Super XL12 Knowledge

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sawnami

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I have a old Super XL12 that I'm curious how the the drive side bearing is retained in the case. When I took it apart, the drive case had two flat headed machine screws on the crankcase side on each side of the bearing but no retainers or anything that appeared to hold the bearing into place in the drive case. The varnish around the screws make it appear that the screws were just screwed into the case with no retainers ever being used.

When looking at some of the parts breakdowns, it looks like there should be a retainer under each screw to hold the bearing into place.

Curious as how the bearing is retained. There is a clip on the crankshaft to position the bearing on the inside diameter.

I am not sure of the year produced.
The only ID on the tag is: Lot C6071 Ser#4551926.

Thanks sharing your knowledge!
 
I'm not 100% positive, but the bearing may be pressed into the case. I've looked at a few IPL's and I don't seem to see any type of retainer shown or listed. Sorry I can't be of anymore help. I have one (a red one - newer, but still old) I've never had mine that far apart so I can't be very sure. None the less one of the greatest saws ever built (IMO)!
 
The bearing has a groove ringed around it and the two screws with washers underneath engage the bearing on this ring on the washer's edge to keep the bearing from backing out. Most of the retaining screws I've seen are torx head, but its possible some were flat ot philips head, or that someone has replaced them. Again, there should be washers underneath the screws. remove the 2 screws and then press the end of the crank and it comes out with the bearing. The bearing is retained on the crank with a ring clip that can be removed once they are pressed out of the crankcase.

Hope this helps,
Dan
 
Hey thanks guys for the information! I think that will get me on the right track. I saw the groove in the outer part of the bearing.

Thanks again for being so helpful!:bowdown:
 
super xl 12 homey.

Question here.Why did you take the saw apart.Did the crank bearing seize up or what.You did not say why you took it a part.Anyways yes the c shaped ring on the crank goes on the out side of the bearing between the bearing and the crank seal.There is a grove cut on the outside of the bearing and is held into the crank case with two small u shaped clips and two torx screws.O yes there are actly 27 needle bearing to hold the con rod to the crank.No more no less.Use a little greese to hold the bearings on the crank and push the bearings around the top half of the con rod on the crank so you dont lose one while you put the con rod cap on with 2 allan head screws.also look close at the con rod and con rod cap.look close there is only one way it will fit exactly perfect.Check this before you put your bears in.Hope this helps and best of luck .Donnyman.
 
Thanks for the additional information! I took it apart because when I pressure tested it, it was leaking at the base of the cylinder. It is a well worn saw, so I thought I'd take it apart to see how much it had been "tinkered" with.

The saw appears to be pretty old. It is a red saw which I don't know when they started to paint them red but I think it may be the first of the red saws. The screws that are supposed to hold the bearing are slotted machine screws and appear to be correct. It does have the fractured rod cap design as you stated.

Since I don't have much to lose, I am thinking of using anerobic sealer instead of a gasket under the cylinder to raise the compression. It has point ignition with a breaker plate that can be slotted to change the timing so I also am thinking of advancing it 5 degrees and running premium fuel premix. Also polishing the exhaust port and removing the spark arrestor screen in the muffler. If it doesn't work, I'll have some parts to put on eBay.;) If it does, I'll have an old worn out looking saw that may impress some of those nice shiney hobby saws.
 

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