I think I pulled maybe 10 seals with it. None was easy. Every single one was a fight. Always slipping off. Tried pre tapping the seals. Tried warming the case. No idea what I'm doing wrong. Any tips?
Is it me, or is the Stihl crank seal puller tool junk?
- Thread starter 2StrokeFondler
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,189
- Reaction score
- 25,058
Put up a pic of it,
I am curious to see if it is still the same.
I am curious to see if it is still the same.
Just like this, but with a Stihl logo. I have both. The cheap one bent, the expensive one snapped
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,189
- Reaction score
- 25,058
Yeah, looks like what I remember. Worked at a few dealers that had them. I never had much luck with them.
PP4218
ArboristSite Operative
I was told by a member here the best way to use that tool is to "tap" the seal all the way around with a punch, then remove the seal.
The punch will break the seal loose from the case and then you can remove it easier.
He was right.
The punch will break the seal loose from the case and then you can remove it easier.
He was right.
like he said, and yes it is junk
AoxoMoxoA
ArboristSite Lurker
I would think if you heat the case enough (i.e., with a heat gun), the seals would just tap out easily with a socket or dowel...
It’s worked pretty well for me so far.
The idea is to get the seal out without splitting the case, you have to pick it out . Tap it in and then pick it out. no heat needed , if you have never done it, dont post how to do it.
AoxoMoxoA
ArboristSite Lurker
Either way — tapping it through or picking it out of the recess, the application of heat does assist in the process. And yes, I've done both before, and unless you know that (which you do not) don't post about what you don't know...
I use a small flathead screwdriver, and maybe a larger narrow-tip flathead screwdriver. It's always worked well for me.
Theres a tool made for that?
a pick/awl and a hammer have always served me well.
I guess I have been to maybe 10 or 15 Stihl schools Heat was never brought up when replacing seals'' you get enough heat on them you stand a chance of unseating the bearing. A lot of people read these post to learn how to work on their saws , I am sure you know how to replace your seals, just no need to complicate things for the beginners.
David
Always worked for me. Tap it in to break the seal with the case and it will pull right out.
I just use one of those little cheap Lisle pullers. I bought maybe a dozen extra blades since you will have to grind them to fit depending. But, you can make them work OK.
Used mine for 30 some years. On smaller seals I tighten the legs under the seal, turn the whole tool a few times and tighten again. Occasionally I have to do it twice in a stubborn seal. Still much quicker and less chance of damage than a pick or screwdriver (I have done it that way also).
Loosening the seal with a small punch does help.
Using the correct legs on the tool makes a big difference.
Loosening the seal with a small punch does help.
Using the correct legs on the tool makes a big difference.
chainsaw-57
ArboristSite Operative
Remove wing bolts. Can't get them tight enough sometimes.
Install torx head screws. Much better control on tightening.
Install torx head screws. Much better control on tightening.
I made the mistake of purchasing, on a whim, an AM Stihl-like puller. It is useless because, as the original OP mentioned, the tips of the jaws just slip off their holds on the seal. Luckily I still have my old reliable Lisle tool, punches, modified flat-blade screwdrivers, small sheet metal screws etc. Good to have multiple options.
Similar threads
