Attempting my very first F#@$%@ng seal replacement 385xp , need advice!

[david newbie]

This is a friend's 385 that had a scored piston, I replaced the piston without a leak test and it immediately scored again. So no Im attempting my first seal replacement. I mangled the one on the flywheel side but finally got it out. Two question s here please. First of all, the seals appear to be different sizes?, and Im thinking I ordered the wrong set, as the ones coming in the mail might be both the same size? Second, I don't even know what part Im pulling here, there are two metal rings I'm seeing? Am I trying to remove the outer metal ring or the inner one? (SEE the first pic, second pic is the one I managed to pull). BTW, my brand near seal puller tip broke in about 10 seconds! Thanks for your help, and need help with BOTH questions!

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Arent saws fun?
What you are looking at in the first photo- PTO side- is a sealed bearing- those steel rings you see are the inner and outer races of the crankshaft bearing and you will NOT remove them with a seal puller.
Well you might move them a little if the bearing is spun and ruined the pocket- not unheard of in early 385's.

So, in this instance- you have to get your head around this is not like your old 2## saws with main oil seals that fit the crank stub and the crankcase- it seals between the two races of the bearing and the bearing itself form a seal with the case and the crank.
But- you are committed now- if it wasnt leaking before hand- sure as heck will be now!

I have not done it personally- but I think the genuine seal can be ordered separate from the bearing (or can be ordered as a kit with bearing). and cannot remember if fitting a new seal to an in place bearing- if there is the need for a special fitting tool.

Have fun.

 

[david newbie]

Does anyone know a part number for that special type of seal, I'm sure not gonna split the case!!

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

seal only is 503 26 22-01
bearing and seal is 503 25 13-01

So, was the PTO side leaking confirmed before you dove in?
Because in all honesty- the way to fix it properly now, is to replace with proprietary OEM bearing with the seal fitted- ie: split the cases.
Next time, check an IPL to become familiar with a model you have not worked on before you dive in- especially if it is not your saw.

 

[david newbie]

seal only is 503 26 22-01
bearing and seal is 503 25 13-01

So, was the PTO side leaking confirmed before you dove in?
Because in all honesty- the way to fix it properly now, is to replace with proprietary OEM bearing with the seal fitted- ie: split the cases.
Next time, check an IPL to become familiar with a model you have not worked on before you dive in- especially if it is not your saw.

its my saw now, when the piston scored a second time, my friend sold it to me cheap, he was done with it. Any tricks to pulling that special seal? Splitting the case and bottom end work is outside my wheelhouse I'm afraid, even pulling and replacing a seal is a stretch for me....

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

its my saw now, when the piston scored a second time, my friend sold it to me cheap, he was done with it. Any tricks to pulling that special seal?

we do it nice coz we do it twice!

Nope, dig it out without damaging the bearing and sealing surfaces I guess.
I have only ever done the bearing and seal at the same time on these. Early ones were known to do bearings until the 390 showed up and they changed things a bit.

 

[huskihl]

I’d give the crank a wiggle. It’s likely the bearing is bad and eating the seal

 

[david newbie]

It give the crank a wiggle. It’s likely the bearing is bad and eating the seal

I have not checked that yet, but I am sure that the seal is 24 years old

 

[Chevboy0167]

Got a serial number for us?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I’d give the crank a wiggle. It’s likely the bearing is bad and eating the seal

Agreed- may have done the early 385 special and the inner race is not sealing on the crank and the seal itself was fine.
But unless a full pressure and vac test was done prior pull down to ascertain exactly what was leaking where- we can but guess.
If a new seal can be found and fitted without problems and seals both sides, then it will be interesting to see a pressure test.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

If it fails because you didn’t pressure and vac test it and then you still don’t pressure and vac test it and just change the seals and now you’ve damaged the piston a second time, you got a ask yourself, would I have been better off buying a pressure and vac tester?

 

[cascadejack]

Sorry to read of your plight with the seals. Case Splitting tools are going for about 42.50 on Ebay plus shipping. Parts diagram site was sent to me last week Barrettsmallengine.com go there and look for Husqvarna parts, and it will take you to a parts diagram. I'm in the same boat as you are sort of, I have never split a case before but just bought all the parts online and the tool.

Tinman on youtube has a good video of him splitting a case, not sure what model saw. I'm working on an old 55 husqvarna, it's a money pit but a learning experience project!

I would spend some time searching on you tube and keep at it with your posts here, pictures, etc...

Also I was able to find a MityVac tool for 19.99 plus 15$ shipping last week. Might be able to rent one at Autozone, not really sure. Too late now anyways. You have learned a valuable lesson and an expensive lesson as well! Maybe take a step back and take a break, aqquire parts and tools or sell it as a parts saw?

There are some really good videos on how to pressure test a chainsaw on you tube, and you can also see the MityVac with the Pressure/Vacuum knob on there, the right gauge, etc... You probably need something like that for diagnostics on your next project.

Don't beat yourself up for messing up, it happens to everyone who tries to fix something on thier own! Then they realize they should have gone to the professionals. Problem is with old chainsaws, it's really hard to find someone local who can fix a saw like yours. The 385 anyways.

I found this on Ebay, same guy I got the OEM parts for my 55. You got a different setup looks like on one side of the crankshaft than most other saws.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1349126354...YVH3J6&hash=item1f696b7264:g:mrAAAOSwJqNluIXI

Looks like that's what you need to rebuild that case, just going by the part numbers and this parts diagram here as well for a 385: https://www.barrettsmallengine.net/partslist/husqvarna385epa-2001-04.pdf

Also I think you need to buy a case splitter and there's lots of those out there for about 50$ .
Tough break, but I would figure on splitting that case now or selling what you got to someone who has rebuilt a bunch of those saws and might even have extra parts lying around.
I would take a step back, take a break from the saw for awhile...

Decide if you want to split the case or not, someone can fix it up right now, but if you mess it up anymore it's a boat anchor... And it's nothing to feel bad about, you put a new top end on it and it blew up again, so that's not really your fault, just bad luck is all. You didn't have a pressure tester or any experience doing all that, but lot's of these guys do and they are just telling you the cold hard facts. Not what you wanted to hear...

I've blown a Chevy 350 when it was a quart low on oil back in 1987, done a lot of stupid stuff. I rebuilt the Chevy and got it running again, with the help of my best friend who was a mechanic. Never again... I sold that truck in 88 or so...

Sorry it's not going well on the 385 but these guys are right, you have to split the case now and put in new bearings and seals. To fix the saw anyways. Or find another saw and admit defeat? I'm kind of thinking you're going to try and fix it! Hope those links help out, you can do it! If not, no one would blame you for backing out at this point.

 

[cascadejack]

You could email that guy on Ebay and ask him some questions, he's really helpful and has repaired saws just like yours I am sure. He got me the right bearings and seals for my 55. The reason I am commenting here is because I searched the forums on how to change bearings and seals, and your post popped up. I'm not some random lurker! Or perhaps I am but all the same, your situation has helped me to learn not to put in a new top end without first doing a pressure test. Or not to mess with my seals either. I did buy a case splitter for my 55. It's got a wierd oil pump worm drive on it.

At least you have a real crankcase and not some clamshell deal... Look on the bright side!

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I did buy a case splitter for my 55. It's got a wierd oil pump worm drive on it.

Dead simple to make the tool to remove those- with some black steel pipe/plumbing fittings, a bolt and a nut- if you happen to also own a welder.

 

[cascadejack]

seal only is 503 26 22-01
bearing and seal is 503 25 13-01

So, was the PTO side leaking confirmed before you dove in?
Because in all honesty- the way to fix it properly now, is to replace with proprietary OEM bearing with the seal fitted- ie: split the cases.
Next time, check an IPL to become familiar with a model you have not worked on before you dive in- especially if it is not your saw.

Kind of a stupid question but what's an IPL? Illustrated Parts List? A guy sent me that link to the Barret site, appears I am correct. https://www.barrettsmallengine.net/partslist/husqvarna385epa-2001-04.pdf I just call it a Parts Diagram! But I have been looking at them all week now and ordering up parts, and writing down part numbers...
Looks like you looked up the part numbers as well! Made in China! Looks different but it's the OEM part #, except for the -02

 

[cascadejack]

Dead simple to make the tool to remove those- with some black steel pipe/plumbing fittings, a bolt and a nut- if you happen to also own a welder.

I can get this guy at work to weld stuff for me, he wants to borrow a chain saw, already gave him a banjo someone gave me for free and he welded a part to my log splitter.

Is this the right tool here? (Sponsor site) It's getting late out here in the Pacific Northwest... and I just checked it's already 7:30 at night down under! Thanks for the help, appreciate it.
I throw money at parts sometimes and finally go out there and fix stuff at some point!

That seal for the 385 though, that's something else! I also own a 394xp and thank god it's not the same seal and bearing as for the 385's

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

You can call them anything you like- but most here will refer to the exploded parts diagram as an IPL.
they are a good resource for seeing exactly where and what you are dealing with and the correct order of assembly of parts.
I did look it up- but not via google, but on here in fact- like most things with the more modern saws- this site probably holds the information you are seeking.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I can get this guy at work to weld stuff for me, he wants to borrow a chain saw, already gave him a banjo someone gave me for free and he welded a part to my log splitter.

Is this the right tool here? (Sponsor site)

Thats possibly what a factory one looks like- never seen one in person.
Never lend anyone a chainsaw- especially if you want to remain friends.

 

[cascadejack]

Thats possibly what a factory one looks like- never seen one in person.
Never lend anyone a chainsaw- especially if you want to remain friends.

I Sort of steered him in the right direction as per borrowing the chain saw, I would have to go out there in person and help out basically. Probably just buy the tool anyways.

My 394 seals are pretty basic, I don't think it needs them anyways, but the 385 is definitely an oddball compared to the 372xp and 394xp or 55's even. In case David Newbie is interested, a 394 would be a lot more straightforward looks like. Almost the same displacement...Or 395 even.

 

[cascadejack]

Signing off on the West Coast of USA... good night/good evening whatever it may be!