Attempting my very first F#@$%@ng seal replacement 385xp , need advice!

[Chevboy0167]

https://www.partstree.com/models/385-xp-husqvarna-chainsaw-sn-20034000001-20051000000/crankshaft-6/

 

[singinwoodwackr]

They’re 6203 size but it has extended races to allow for the seal to press in. It’s proprietary, available through Husky only. The flywheel side is standard 6203

Lovely...
Odd, however, as some of the IPLs show them as the same bearing included in the crank assembly kit. Does David just have an odd year saw or...?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

https://www.partstree.com/models/385-xp-husqvarna-chainsaw-sn-20034000001-20051000000/crankshaft-6/

Is that not the new version with the cupping seal?
This saw is the original style- sealed bearing between races and not a standard bearing (as has been pointed out several times).

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Lovely...
Odd, however, as some of the IPLs show them as the same bearing included in the crank assembly kit. Does David just have an odd year saw or...?

The 385 was alive before the 390.
The early 385 had bearing "issues", this was addressed and corrected at the introduction of the 390.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

The 385 was alive before the 390.
The early 385 had bearing "issues", this was addressed and corrected at the introduction of the 390.

Lol, so...stay clear of 385s

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Lol, so...stay clear of 385s

Not at all- still very capable saws- the early ones just needed watched because if casual users did not notice the bearing inner spinning on the crank, they wore the cranks and a new bearing never fully sealed up and will fail again.
Bit like top ends that are replaced without figuring out why they needed replaced- you do it again pretty soon.

Never done it, but I believe the newer 390 crank will swap into the old cases.

 

[huskihl]

Lovely...
Odd, however, as some of the IPLs show them as the same bearing included in the crank assembly kit. Does David just have an odd year saw or...?

I don’t believe that’s the case. I’ve rebuilt lots of them. The flywheel side uses a standard bearing and a metal/rubber seal that we see on most chainsaws. The PTO side always has a heavy duty sealed bearing. And they are typically only available at the dealer for about $40 apiece

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I don’t believe that’s the case. I’ve rebuilt lots of them. The flywheel side uses a standard bearing and a metal/rubber seal that we see on most chainsaws. The PTO side always has a heavy duty sealed bearing. And they are typically only available at the dealer for about $40 apiece

$40 is reasonable for a special bearing.

 

[david newbie]

https://www.partstree.com/models/385-xp-husqvarna-chainsaw-sn-20034000001-20051000000/crankshaft-6/

I went ahead and ordered the special seal. Thanks and wish me luck! ( iv'e already ordered the seal for the other side. Btw, which side is more prone to leaks on your average chainsaw?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I went ahead and ordered the special seal. Thanks and wish me luck! ( iv'e already ordered the seal for the other side. Btw, which side is more prone to leaks on your average chainsaw?

On your average chainsaw- probably the PTO side because it has been used with- dull chain, overtight chain, heavy load, failed needle bearing in clutch bell........
But you never know if you guess and hope- a test that shows air leaking is the only way to be sure.

 

[david newbie]

On your average chainsaw- probably the PTO side because it has been used with- dull chain, overtight chain, heavy load, failed needle bearing in clutch bell........
But you never know if you guess and hope- a test that shows air leaking is the only way to be sure.

if one leaks, do YOU usually replace the one or both?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

if one leaks, do YOU usually replace the one or both?

Well that all depends on the saw, how old/dirty/abused it is, the experience and knowledge of previous owner and what I am intending to do to return it to service.
I mean if you are going to replace one bearing and not the other on an old saw- you kind of need your head read.
Same with seals- it is age, condition, past life and if it passes a pressure and vacuum test. If only one side fails you replace it and test again- low and behold the other side often has a smaller slower leak than the major one you just fixed.
With my own saws I can gamble a bit- because I have seals in stock and know how to replace them. If its someone elses saw and one side fails, I talk to them and recommend doing both.

But at the end of all this- you are going to be mighty pissed if it ends up being an intake tract leak and the seals were still holding.

 

[huskihl]

Well that all depends on the saw, how old/dirty/abused it is, the experience and knowledge of previous owner and what I am intending to do to return it to service.
I mean if you are going to replace one bearing and not the other on an old saw- you kind of need your head read.
Same with seals- it is age, condition, past life and if it passes a pressure and vacuum test. If only one side fails you replace it and test again- low and behold the other side often has a smaller slower leak than the major one you just fixed.
With my own saws I can gamble a bit- because I have seals in stock and know how to replace them. If its someone elses saw and one side fails, I talk to them and recommend doing both.

But at the end of all this- you are going to be mighty pissed if it ends up being an intake tract leak and the seals were still holding.

Or the PTO bearing that was mentioned early on. Because that’s usually what goes on a 385

 

[lone wolf]

if one leaks, do YOU usually replace the one or both?

Both!

 

[david newbie]

Well that all depends on the saw, how old/dirty/abused it is, the experience and knowledge of previous owner and what I am intending to do to return it to service.
I mean if you are going to replace one bearing and not the other on an old saw- you kind of need your head read.
Same with seals- it is age, condition, past life and if it passes a pressure and vacuum test. If only one side fails you replace it and test again- low and behold the other side often has a smaller slower leak than the major one you just fixed.
With my own saws I can gamble a bit- because I have seals in stock and know how to replace them. If its someone elses saw and one side fails, I talk to them and recommend doing both.

But at the end of all this- you are going to be mighty pissed if it ends up being an intake tract leak and the seals were still holding.

true dat! But at least I successfully pulled a couple seals ( I'm a virgin). Hopefully, I will be able to install new ones successfully too! Ive never touched a seal before, been avoiding it

 

[cascadejack]

Installing the new seals looks way easier than pulling them from all the videos I have watched so far. You might consider splitting the case at some point, if the seals don't fix it. Kind of out of sequence though, most people split the case, replace bearings, put case back together, then they put new seals in. That PTO side looks pretty tricky, must be a video on that somewhere on you tube.

Thanks for posting this thread anyways, I have learned some lessons here as well. I'll start my own thread on my 55 bearings and seals project when the time comes. I bought a 394 PHO about 10 years ago and it sat in a van in the backyard (covered as well) it won't run, got it to fire though, has to be the carburetor and fuel- it ran really strong 10 years ago, scary strong... and heavy. Big saw. I got it for milling with... Same case splitting tool for the 394, 395 and 385, from what I can tell anyways. Smaller saws have a smaller case splitting tool.

Splitting a case seems pretty basic with the tool, bearings you got to heat things up and it's way easier. *Not on the one you have though, melt it!

Must be a easy way to do it.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Installing the new seals looks way easier than pulling them from all the videos I have watched so far. You might consider splitting the case at some point, if the seals don't fix it. Kind of out of sequence though, most people split the case, replace bearings, put case back together, then they put new seals in. That PTO side looks pretty tricky, must be a video on that somewhere on you tube.

Thanks for posting this thread anyways, I have learned some lessons here as well. I'll start my own thread on my 55 bearings and seals project when the time comes. I bought a 394 PHO about 10 years ago and it sat in a van in the backyard (covered as well) it won't run, got it to fire though, has to be the carburetor and fuel- it ran really strong 10 years ago, scary strong... and heavy. Big saw. I got it for milling with... Same case splitting tool for the 394, 395 and 385, from what I can tell anyways. Smaller saws have a smaller case splitting tool.

Splitting a case seems pretty basic with the tool, bearings you got to heat things up and it's way easier. *Not on the one you have though, melt it!

Must be a easy way to do it.

Splitting it is only half the battle…gotta get it back together

 

[cascadejack]

Here you go, might be something in this one of usefulness for your situation. Think I saw another one on you tube for the 385 as well...

 

[cascadejack]

Splitting it is only half the battle…gotta get it back together

In that video I posted he has another special tool for putting them back together with!
Ka Ching, Ka Ching...

 

[singinwoodwackr]

In that video I posted he has another special tool for putting them back together with!
Ka Ching, Ka Ching...

I have Matt’s tool set. Works amazingly well. Recently had to send him a Shindaiwa crank that he didn’t have a rod for. Made one, custom