Attempting my very first F#@$%@ng seal replacement 385xp , need advice!

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Um- are you keeping up?
This is NOT a regular stock standard seal- it does NOT seal on the crank- nor on the bearing pocket- this seal fits between inner and outer bearing race- miles larger ID than the crank stub- so no step to work over.
thought you meant the flywheel side- was only on my first coffee- rebuilt 2 0f those saws in the last couple of weeks- just bought 2 of the pto side sealed bearings syesterday from the dealer- got another 390 to rebuild in about a week and like to have them on hand- flywheel side the seal will fit seversl models of the bigger huskys
 
Not sure how well I did on this. flushed the exposed portion of bearings with fuel mix, then put some 2 stroke oil into the bearings,. Used a socket to tap it in. PTO side was just a little proud, and my tall socket wasn't tall enough, so aI used a punch very carefully and tapped the whole circle down.It was a very tight fit and a tiny ribbon of material on the edges came off. Crossing fingers. On the flywheel side, I'm not sure if I tapped it deep enough?, I used a piece of celluloid to TRY and avoid everting the seal on the step. I used a thin coating of ymabond on the metal rim. Look at the pictures and tell me what you think? ( Please try and be nice). Maybe I need to deeper on flywheel side?IMG_3624.jpegIMG_3625.jpegIMG_3626.jpegIMG_3627.jpeg
 
If you drove the flywheel seal in and over the crank step- I give it a 50/50 you did not curl the inner lip and drop the spring onto the crank.
No need for the addition of Yamabond- possibly a hinderance rather than a help.
I usually just tell the saw to bite the pillow as this is getting driven in dry.
 
I’m gonna call it a success (for a first try )it held vacuum a 7# for 1 minutes with pressure it dropped from 7 to about 5.5 # over a one minute period View attachment 1169658
Pressure test it and use soapy water and spray all around until you find the leak, if the inner seal leaks you may be able to spin the engine over a good amount to get it to seal with some luck,if the outer seal leaks you can silicone it. I don't want to see it drop at all in a minute.
 
I don’t have any more bearing specs than you do, Ken.

The saws have been out for 20+ years. I’d think if there was a workaround we’d know about it by now
Don't think anybody ever bothers to look over the bearing charts and cross-reference theur own parts.
I don't have the sizes. You assume I've put bearings in Husky saws. Many parts can be crossed if people only bothered to look a bit deeper.

Thanks for help on the bearing sizes.
 
Don't think anybody ever bothers to look over the bearing charts and cross-reference theur own parts.
I don't have the sizes. You assume I've put bearings in Husky saws. Many parts can be crossed if people only bothered to look a bit deeper.

Thanks for help on the bearing sizes.
I never assumed you’ve put bearings in anything. I don’t have any of those bearings here to look at either. But I do know they are an offset bearing to make room for the seal, similar to what is on the clutch side of stihl. It’s not normal to walk into any sort of a bearing supplier and find one the correct width that has room for a heavy duty seal
 
As mentioned, fly wheel side is a 6203 C3 (17×40×12mm) with a standard 17×28×5mm seal.
Clutch side bearing is same inner & outer diameter but is 1mm wider to accommodate the seal (17×40×13mm).
Bearing mating surface is 12mm on both case halves.
Oil pump on the clutch side had at least 2.3mm of clearance on the units I measured so a bearing upto 14mm wide should work without significant complications
20240417_144541.jpg
 
Back
Top