Preston
Addicted to ArboristSite
I love this. I'm learning more probably than you are. Keep it up.
It's almost alive! My splitter build.
- Thread starter dave_dj1
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BrokenToys
ArboristSite Operative
That's a hot setup. Seriously like the engine cover too. Hell, there's nothing on there I don't like. Great job!!
Thanks guys, I'm learning quite a bit also.
Can anyone figure the gallons my tank should hold by measurements? After dumping in approximately 12 gals of hydro the other night and it didn't bring it to half full I'm thinking it may be more like 20-25 gal tank
Measurements are 17" x 17" by about 17" tall
Off to google I go.........................OK, I'm back (that was easy!)
tank is roughly 4913 cubic inches, 21 gallons is about that. So for having room for expansion I'm guessing 17 gallons would be about right for a working size.
Maybe I didn't dump in as much as I thought? LOL hey, it happens!
Can anyone figure the gallons my tank should hold by measurements? After dumping in approximately 12 gals of hydro the other night and it didn't bring it to half full I'm thinking it may be more like 20-25 gal tank
Measurements are 17" x 17" by about 17" tall
Off to google I go.........................OK, I'm back (that was easy!)
tank is roughly 4913 cubic inches, 21 gallons is about that. So for having room for expansion I'm guessing 17 gallons would be about right for a working size.
Maybe I didn't dump in as much as I thought? LOL hey, it happens!
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Here is some info for Cross hydraulics. I couldn't get it to link directly.
ttp://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/cross-manufacturing/full-line-107pdf/7220-21226-_19.html
ttp://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/cross-manufacturing/full-line-107pdf/7220-21226-_19.html
I have all that and Cross even emailed me some info. I still can't find what I'm looking for. Thanks for the link though.
No biggie, I'll just get a new valve in a bit. I'm more curious than anything now.
No biggie, I'll just get a new valve in a bit. I'm more curious than anything now.
Have you taken the valve apart at all? The cover at the back contains the spring that centers the spool, if the bolt holding the spring is loose it will limit the travel of the spool. The spool only travels about a 1/4" in each direction. If the bolt backs out the spool travel is restricted which will also restrict flow.
walkerdogman85
ArboristSite Operative
Slow Operation
A reduction in machine performance is often the first indication that there is something wrong with a hydraulic system. This usually manifests itself in longer cycle times or slow operation. It is important to remember that in a hydraulic system, flow determines actuator speed and response. Therefore, a loss of speed indicates a loss of flow.
Flow can escape from a hydraulic circuit through external or internal leakage. External leakage such as a burst hose is usually obvious and therefore easy to find. Internal leakage can occur in the pump, valves or actuators, and unless you are gifted with X-ray vision, is more difficult to isolate.
As previously noted, where there is internal leakage there is a pressure drop, and where there is a pressure drop heat is generated. This makes an infrared thermometer a useful tool for identifying components with abnormal internal leakage. However, temperature measurement is not always conclusive in isolating internal leakage and in these cases the use of a hydraulic flow-tester will be required.
The influence of internal leakage on heat load means that slow operation and high fluid temperature often appear together. This can be a vicious circle. When fluid temperature increases, viscosity decreases. When viscosity decreases, internal leakage increases. When internal leakage increases, heat load increases, resulting in a further increase in fluid temperature and so the cycle continues.
Proactively monitoring noise, fluid temperature and cycle times is an effective way to detect conditions that can lead to costly component failures and unscheduled downtime of hydraulic equipment. In most cases, informed observation is all that is required.
I found this off of a hydraulic site it's a lot simpler than me trying to explain. My pump turned out to be a single stage pump and was leaking out the shaft seal under load. It being a gear pump it was eating the housing over time (neighbor gave it to me) it was by passing in the pump so I am buying a new one.
Will it split wood if so what's your pressure? Psi. What kind of pump do you have single stage or two stage? It will retract the cylinder faster cause the rod is taking up room in the cylinder causing less fluid needed to move
A reduction in machine performance is often the first indication that there is something wrong with a hydraulic system. This usually manifests itself in longer cycle times or slow operation. It is important to remember that in a hydraulic system, flow determines actuator speed and response. Therefore, a loss of speed indicates a loss of flow.
Flow can escape from a hydraulic circuit through external or internal leakage. External leakage such as a burst hose is usually obvious and therefore easy to find. Internal leakage can occur in the pump, valves or actuators, and unless you are gifted with X-ray vision, is more difficult to isolate.
As previously noted, where there is internal leakage there is a pressure drop, and where there is a pressure drop heat is generated. This makes an infrared thermometer a useful tool for identifying components with abnormal internal leakage. However, temperature measurement is not always conclusive in isolating internal leakage and in these cases the use of a hydraulic flow-tester will be required.
The influence of internal leakage on heat load means that slow operation and high fluid temperature often appear together. This can be a vicious circle. When fluid temperature increases, viscosity decreases. When viscosity decreases, internal leakage increases. When internal leakage increases, heat load increases, resulting in a further increase in fluid temperature and so the cycle continues.
Proactively monitoring noise, fluid temperature and cycle times is an effective way to detect conditions that can lead to costly component failures and unscheduled downtime of hydraulic equipment. In most cases, informed observation is all that is required.
I found this off of a hydraulic site it's a lot simpler than me trying to explain. My pump turned out to be a single stage pump and was leaking out the shaft seal under load. It being a gear pump it was eating the housing over time (neighbor gave it to me) it was by passing in the pump so I am buying a new one.
Will it split wood if so what's your pressure? Psi. What kind of pump do you have single stage or two stage? It will retract the cylinder faster cause the rod is taking up room in the cylinder causing less fluid needed to move
jthornton
ArboristSite Guru
Why not reverse the lines to the cylinder and see if the issue is with the valve or not... reverse lines and if it retracts slow and extends fast then focus on the valve. Got a link to the valve in question?
John
John, if you go back a page to post #38 I have a link to the vavle.
The pump is a new 22 gpm pump from surplus center.
I had company this weekend (5 year old grandson and my daughter) so I didn't have much time to work on the splitter.
If I get time tomorrow I will reverse the lines coming out of the valve and check things out.
I'm pretty sure it's the valve as it works good in retract, extend not so much.
It's not really the valve I need anyway as I need one to operate the log lift , I was just trying it to see if it would even split.
thanks guys, I'll keep you all updated.
The pump is a new 22 gpm pump from surplus center.
I had company this weekend (5 year old grandson and my daughter) so I didn't have much time to work on the splitter.
If I get time tomorrow I will reverse the lines coming out of the valve and check things out.
I'm pretty sure it's the valve as it works good in retract, extend not so much.
It's not really the valve I need anyway as I need one to operate the log lift , I was just trying it to see if it would even split.
thanks guys, I'll keep you all updated.
jthornton
ArboristSite Guru
I did a search for cross SCV-1 CONVERTA SINGLE SPOOL VALVE and came up with a Cross pdf that pretty much said not to use that valve with a detent for log splitting... I don't know what application it is intended for. Cross didn't have any info at all on their web site. If it is configured as a 3 way valve that might explain your problem.
A clue from this web page
John
A clue from this web page
John
John, that's the only thing I can think of. It's just bothering to not know why it works the way it does! LOL
I think I've wasted enough time on it and am going to move on, that one will go in the scrap heap as soon as I feel like messing with hydraulic oil again. LOL
thanks,
dave
I think I've wasted enough time on it and am going to move on, that one will go in the scrap heap as soon as I feel like messing with hydraulic oil again. LOL
thanks,
dave
Well I swapped the lines this morning and opposite results as expected. It went out very quick and with power (I split two pieces of oak) and retracts painfully slow.
My cousin thinks he has a new valve and is going to dig it out today.
Stay tuned! LOL
dave
My cousin thinks he has a new valve and is going to dig it out today.
Stay tuned! LOL
dave
Preston
Addicted to ArboristSite
Heck, that might work. That would split and then give you time to get the next piece ready before the retraction is complete. That idea would work for me. 
Naw, one of the goals of this build is to have fast cycle times, I went the extra money for the 22 gpm pump.
My bro. has an older MTD and it is painfully slow, I want to show him what a real splitter can do! LOL
My bro. has an older MTD and it is painfully slow, I want to show him what a real splitter can do! LOL
walkerdogman85
ArboristSite Operative
Well at least you figured out what the problem was! When I fired mine up a couple of weeks ago the cycle time was 56 seconds round trip!!! Talk about painfully slow, I am like you I want some speed so when it money is there I am going to buy either a 22-28 gpm pump. I have a 20 hp motor and a 4x30 cylinder!
jthornton
ArboristSite Guru
John, things are looking up!
I just got off the phone with Cross (very nice people to deal with) and my valve has indeed been converted to a 3 way valve. In other words it is set up for a single acting cylinder. The representative gave me the part number I need and where to find it, she also sent me the parts breakdown sheet.
Now I've just got to wait to get the part.
dave
I just got off the phone with Cross (very nice people to deal with) and my valve has indeed been converted to a 3 way valve. In other words it is set up for a single acting cylinder. The representative gave me the part number I need and where to find it, she also sent me the parts breakdown sheet.
Now I've just got to wait to get the part.
dave
jthornton
ArboristSite Guru
Dave, that makes more sense that it was set up for a single acting cylinder.
I think your on your way to making a woody mess soon...
John
I hope so!
Funny thing is I don't have any wood that needs splitting. My brother however still has a log truck load to split for his outdoor furnace. That is part of the reason for the 30" stroke, that and it's what I found cheap.
Once I get it up and running I may drag it up to my buddies log yard (about 6 miles up the road) and test it out on some of his red oak butt ends (that's why the log lift).
Funny thing is I don't have any wood that needs splitting. My brother however still has a log truck load to split for his outdoor furnace. That is part of the reason for the 30" stroke, that and it's what I found cheap.
Once I get it up and running I may drag it up to my buddies log yard (about 6 miles up the road) and test it out on some of his red oak butt ends (that's why the log lift).
jthornton
ArboristSite Guru
I can't wait to see the photos of chips flying as you split...
John
John
