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Another couple things to check are the final fuel filter screen in the carb body and the actual passage between the final filter and the metering valve seat.....on Deans 90 that passage was almost totally plugged. If all that stuff checks out I'd look at the fuel pump side of the carb.....but again... a thorough cleaning and new carb kit installed will cover all these potential problem spots.....
 
Metering valves will swell or get a ring/dimple around them and cease to function properly. Depending on the 'kit', I see a lot of differences between the material used in metering valves (even the color). That's why I try to find the OE kits for a Tilly instead of the aftermarket kits. Just me though.....

Kevin
 
Lol! That might take some of the stress off the other handle A/V's......but, I'd be much more interested in that unmolested full-wrap!

In the real missing A/V, there is only one screw hole that fastens back to the saw body. And I've never seen it break or come lose like other have said it would. He's only using one of the handle screw holes, but doubles up on the saw body...strange.

Kevin
 
Wow!!!! Wished something like that would pop up on my craigslist!

Funny.....I have a program that's supposed to search the country for craigslist items....it doesn't list this saw....but lists a few 70E's one of which is driveable to me. 'Needs fuel system work' he says. I asked him if it is an early 70E with the under-the-flywheel module and if it has good spark. He'll either play stupid or tell me straight up. It's just the powerhead for $285....not a 'deal' by craigslist standards but typical of a PNW saw listing. They know around here what vintage saws bring on eBay....for the most part.

Kevin
 
woods works said:
Model 80. This one is just out of my reach in travel time, considering I should be thinning, not adding!
Good deal for collector near U.P. MI.

https://up.craigslist.org/grd/d/chainsaw/6610648879.html
Click to expand...
Damn........I was in the U.P. last week.......I'd paid $40 for that......nice roller tip bar!! Probably just as well.... the bride was not terribly impressed that PB smuggled a saw into our SUV while she was sleeping.......two might have caused more noise....
 
taplinhill said:
Not quite factory, and not quite A/V....................
(Current ebay listing for a 910E)

View attachment 657927
Click to expand...

I looked that over closely too as it's an EV model and I'm patiently waiting for one. He said the heating elements had been removed from the full wrap.......I have a NOS heated full wrap and proper lower AV mount sitting here......have thought about putting it on my 910E but that would be kind of a waste......the one in this add is to much $$$$ for me.....would like to find a beat EV model and build one.....need the flywheel , stator and switch....have a bunch of NOS 910 stuff including two NOS P&C kits complete with boots and decomps.....guess I'll just have to be patient some more....
 
fe1d023fd9308959de732f6897833b88.png


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/142828213237


Erik
 
Cantdog said:
No that's a sintered bronze plug that slips in the end of the vent line to keep sawdust/debris from entering the vent line as the fuel in the tank is used and replaced with air.

I assume you are in the no start situation? Check and make sure the carb gasket to isolation block didn't slip down out of place when you put it back together. Then make certain the metering valve isn't stuck on it's seat closed. Myself....I would just do a carb kit out of hand...also make sure when you reassembled the carb on the diaphragm side it went Diaphragm, gasket, cover in that order.......seen a lot of 'em put together gasket, dia, cover.....
Click to expand...
Hold it there a moment.......both sides have a diaphragm, pump diaphram on one side needs to be against carb body so flap valves can function against it causing pumping action , metering valve side on my diagrams (large , obvious diaphragm with pin to metering lever shown going together as gasket, diaphram ,cover (with hole to atmosphere). So,op needs to be clear which is which way. Just to be certain so I am not seen as having my head where it shouldn't be I just checked again. This led to some years of frustrations for me as some I came across ran badly assembled incorrectly, rather than wouldn't run at all.
To make matters worse, some carbs (I think zama) are both diaphragms against body....
Just felt I should point out still room for confusion here. To OP, get an exploded diagram !
 
jonsereds 621 said:
Hold it there a moment.......both sides have a diaphragm, pump diaphram on one side needs to be against carb body so flap valves can function against it causing pumping action , metering valve side on my diagrams (large , obvious diaphragm with pin to metering lever shown going together as gasket, diaphram ,cover (with hole to atmosphere). So,op needs to be clear which is which way. Just to be certain so I am not seen as having my head where it shouldn't be I just checked again. This led to some years of frustrations for me as some I came across ran badly assembled incorrectly, rather than wouldn't run at all.
To make matters worse, some carbs (I think zama) are both diaphragms against body....
Just felt I should point out still room for confusion here. To OP, get an exploded diagram !
Click to expand...
 

Attachments

  • jonsered49sp diagram.pdf
    961.1 KB · Views: 6
Well well well ! Thanks to your most careful guidance and photo's I am now totally sold on 49sp's. ....To such an extent that I'm giving serious consideration to ditching everything else (except my 621's of course, oh and the 80).
I was certain you would want it right....so there we go.
Thanks agains...... sorry about thats got hylomar on a keys !
 
Hi Tim,

I've got the car
fossil said:
Open it more on the low side. If you open it up some and find it's running not too bad, look to the muffler to see if it's wet with mix. You might have an air leak.
Click to expand...
I've got the carb stripped and soaking in that magic carb cleaner that we've mentioned before. I'll drain it and put it back together tomorrow and see how we go.
 
Hi Tim,


fossil said:
Open it more on the low side. If you open it up some and find it's running not too bad, look to the muffler to see if it's wet with mix. You might have an air leak.
Click to expand...
I've got the carb stripped and soaking in that magic carb cleaner that we've mentioned before. I'll drain it and put it back together tomorrow and see how we go.
 

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