Jonsered Chainsaws

[Real1shepherd]

Kevin -

Yep, have your name on one of them. Will see what I can do on a slightly better than "pretty nice car" price...

I'll certainly take plenty of pics.

Scott

My first impulse is to call 'shill bidding', but prices for Holy Grail saws have become insane. I used to try to get to the bottom of obscene prices like that but I figure now if people are dishonest, you're not gonna change them.

Hopefully in this instance, everything was above board.

Kevin

 

[bulletpruf]

It was actually listed as fixed price or maybe fixed price or best offer. Really no way to do shill bidding on that.

 

[Real1shepherd]

My bad, I never got that far....lol.

Kevin

 

[taplinhill]

I sold a total rat of a VW Samba bus on the internet that brought good money. I checked out the VW forums at the time and they were all crying "shill". It was legit and what was a total piece of useless crap (to me) that had been sitting in the woods since the hippies got done with it in '72 has now found a happy home.

 

[Real1shepherd]

It used to be easy enough to check....if the buyer was 'new' with no history and a lot of money was involved, it was suspect as being a shill bid. But ebay conceals the identity of the buyer now. eBay itself though is tougher on shill bidding than it used to be. I know of several sellers who had their accounts removed for doing it. I used to buy a lot of vintage analog stereo gear and the higher end stuff, for whatever reason, promoted a fair amount of shill bidding.

Kevin

 

[sawfun]

It used to be easy enough to check....if the buyer was 'new' with no history and a lot of money was involved, it was suspect as being a shill bid. But ebay conceals the identity of the buyer now. eBay itself though is tougher on shill bidding than it used to be. I know of several sellers who had their accounts removed for doing it. I used to buy a lot of vintage analog stereo gear and the higher end stuff, for whatever reason, promoted a fair amount of shill bidding.

Kevin

Sorry to derail the thread a bit, but Kevin, did you ever get any Quadrophonic or CD4 stuff?

 

[Real1shepherd]

Sorry to derail the thread a bit, but Kevin, did you ever get any Quadrophonic or CD4 stuff?

No, when I lived through that period I was about to make the plunge, but it was confusing who had the 'best effects' and it was twice the cost of stereo. I felt somewhat disenfranchised and so to this day I never got into quad. I did almost buy a quad reel to reel deck though....simply to have more channels to play with.

Kevin

 

[leecopland]

Hi Guys,

A little help please.

I have a 535 that received a new piston and I have gone through the carb and line etc, however. It starts fine, and with the HDA carb it has the throttle advance after the choke so it will run for 15 seconds then die. If I try to rev it it will also die. I have both H & L at 1 1/4 as per the manual.

Do I open the L more or close it down to get it to run?

 

[fossil]

Hi Guys,

A little help please.

I have a 535 that received a new piston and I have gone through the carb and line etc, however. It starts fine, and with the HDA carb it has the throttle advance after the choke so it will run for 15 seconds then die. If I try to rev it it will also die. I have both H & L at 1 1/4 as per the manual.

Do I open the L more or close it down to get it to run?

Open it more on the low side. If you open it up some and find it's running not too bad, look to the muffler to see if it's wet with mix. You might have an air leak.

 

[leecopland]

Thanks Tim, I'll let you know how it goes

 

[Real1shepherd]

Hi Guys,

A little help please.

I have a 535 that received a new piston and I have gone through the carb and line etc, however. It starts fine, and with the HDA carb it has the throttle advance after the choke so it will run for 15 seconds then die. If I try to rev it it will also die. I have both H & L at 1 1/4 as per the manual.

Do I open the L more or close it down to get it to run?

Make sure the fuel filter is 100% unclogged. Start with 1 1/2 LOW and around 1 HIGH. Make sure you have the correct carb to intake gakset and/or if it has the rubber boot....make sure that has no cracks/holes.

Like Tim said, sounds like an air leak or fuel restriction issue.

Kevin

 

[Just a Guy that cuts wood]

Fuel trouble on my 80/90 ..... kill switch went bad so the saw sat for 3 months .. that fixed now no fuel......
replaced tank line and filter and line from block to carb.
carb is clean and dry. starts on prime......
compression on 1 pull 175 lbs. the knot pulled through the handle .... now I need to fix that also
I put vacuum tester on fuel line just before carb ... pulls fuel so
i think vent is ok
whats next?

 

[Real1shepherd]

Fuel trouble on my 80/90 ..... kill switch went bad so the saw sat for 3 months .. that fixed now no fuel......
replaced tank line and filter and line from block to carb.
carb is clean and dry. starts on prime......
compression on 1 pull 175 lbs. the knot pulled through the handle .... now I need to fix that also
I put vacuum tester on fuel line just before carb ... pulls fuel so
i think vent is ok
whats next?

Hard to say without being there. Was the saw running perfectly before the kill switch went bad? Have you tried fresh, non-ehtanol fuel? Did you replace the fuel filter with a cleaned one or used one from a parts saw?

If the saw was running perfectly before the kill switch died...I'm gonna bet it's a varnish problem in the carb. Hopefully, you didn't put that diamond shaped carb to intake gasket in that comes with the Tilly rebuild kits...it's wrong and doesn't cover the impulse channel. But if the saw was running perfectly when the klill switch died, that won't be your problem.

Are you sure you have good, clean spark? Try a different plug too.....

Kevin

 

[Just a Guy that cuts wood]

Lights up on in line tester and fires on prime ..... thats what has me stumped.
did not do carb kit only opened it up to see if diaphragm dry / cracked
had trouble with old walbro it would get white gunk if it sat to long
I run E free but can try fuel.
The 3rd line from fuel tank block to (not sure where it goes ) up to the cylinder somewhere I did nothing to
302400
I have part #s but no name 357200 is that some kind of duck bill

 

[fossil]

Lights up on in line tester and fires on prime ..... thats what has me stumped.
did not do carb kit only opened it up to see if diaphragm dry / cracked
had trouble with old walbro it would get white gunk if it sat to long
I run E free but can try fuel.
The 3rd line from fuel tank block to (not sure where it goes ) up to the cylinder somewhere I did nothing to
View attachment 656411 302400
I have part #s but no name 357200 is that some kind of duck bill

The other line up top is the tank vent.

 

[leecopland]

Thanks Tim, I'll let you know how it goes

Opened to 1 1/2 and it runs some better. H is at 1 1/4 so will try it at 1.

Will also check/change fuel filter and lines

 

[Cantdog]

Lights up on in line tester and fires on prime ..... thats what has me stumped.
did not do carb kit only opened it up to see if diaphragm dry / cracked
had trouble with old walbro it would get white gunk if it sat to long
I run E free but can try fuel.
The 3rd line from fuel tank block to (not sure where it goes ) up to the cylinder somewhere I did nothing to
View attachment 656411 302400
I have part #s but no name 357200 is that some kind of duck bill

No that's a sintered bronze plug that slips in the end of the vent line to keep sawdust/debris from entering the vent line as the fuel in the tank is used and replaced with air.

I assume you are in the no start situation? Check and make sure the carb gasket to isolation block didn't slip down out of place when you put it back together. Then make certain the metering valve isn't stuck on it's seat closed. Myself....I would just do a carb kit out of hand...also make sure when you reassembled the carb on the diaphragm side it went Diaphragm, gasket, cover in that order.......seen a lot of 'em put together gasket, dia, cover.....

 

[Deleted member 150358]

The first time I had that problem with the manifold gasket. Took reading through a lot of Robins old posts to figure it out. Definitely an ah-ha moment.

 

[Real1shepherd]

That's why I said to make sure that diamond shaped carb to manifold gasket was NOT installed.....it leaves some of the impulse channel exposed.

I'm all for a new carb kit, but it sounds like you're close to getting it running. Just playing detective.....since it was running before the kill switch failed...methinks it's a stale gas, gasket shrinking/dry out problem.

That vent end should have a sintered bronze plug in it and terminate through a small hole on most of the 80's I've had. It should also be held in place by a wire attached to the carb on the 80/801...may be a tad differnt on the 90. I'll take some pics tomorrow.

Hang in there, you're close!

Kevin

 

[taplinhill]

If the carb is dry I would bet that the metering valve is stuck. We used to see this all the time on Tilly equipped snowmachines that had set for a while.
If that is the problem and it has a rubber tip make sure it isn't damaged.