Looks like a 52E to me.
Jonsered Chainsaws
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As noted, it was easier to do the front one with the cylinder off, good new in this case is the donor saw was a parts saw anyway so not a big deal to take it apart. These hook on the bottom so I found it necessary to slide a small piece of shim stock through the slot to help prevent the tab on the bottom from catching. A little squeeze with the needle nose pliers and prying it out and we have success.
Thanks Taplinhill for the encouragement.
Mark
Thanks Taplinhill for the encouragement.
Mark
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Yep both are either 52 or 52E ......or perhaps a 51.....all the same family
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On further inspection the first one is most surely a 52 or 52E by the number of cooling fins. The second may be well be a 51 by the looks of the early recoil cover with the flat screen but cover get changed out a lot.....easier than changing a spring or rope for those not mechanically inclined. 51 had more cooling fins like the 621 or 66E etc.
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You did good Mark........those are a real PITA to remove and reuse.......when working on a saw that needs a parts order and one or more is missing I just buy new.
110 is back together but had to work through an issue or two.
The Caber rings didn't fit -- the issue is the width of the ring - back to front. They don't seem to seat far enough into the ring groove, and I can't get the piston into the jug. It comes close, but I think I was close to breaking a ring, damaging the ring groove, or gouging the bore. I contacted the eBay seller, who is based in Greece, and he said that he's never had a problem. He claimed that the difference in the width is because my old rings are just worn out. I dunno about that; what do y'all think?
Next issue - decomp valve. When I was turning it over with the decomp closed, I noticed some fuel was coming out of the decomp relief hole and dripping onto the cylinder fin. Looking closer, it noticed some carbon down there, too, like it had been leaking some when running. Removed the decomp and saw that there was a piece of the jug that wasn't cast properly, and there was a bit of metal right where the decomp plug fits in the hole. Did my best to remove it, but it was still leaking a bit. Compression was still pretty good at around 150 psi, however.
There was really no way to properly remove the metal and clean up the hole without slicing the jug apart, so I plugged the hole with some high heat metal epoxy and installed a dummy decomp, so it at least looks stock.
That definitely made a change -- compression is now 193 psi! That's by far the highest that I've registered on one of these saws.
Plan is to start it and tune it today; haven't started it yet, but it has really nice looking spark (had nothing before I went through the ignition) and carb has a fresh rebuild, too. I also coated the inside of the fuel tank with Red-Kote; the inner coating wasn't in great shape. Red-Kote worked well.
Here are a few finished pictures. I'll end up listing it for sale in the next day or so, along with a hard nose Jonsereds 36" bar or a roller tip Oregon 36" bar.
The Caber rings didn't fit -- the issue is the width of the ring - back to front. They don't seem to seat far enough into the ring groove, and I can't get the piston into the jug. It comes close, but I think I was close to breaking a ring, damaging the ring groove, or gouging the bore. I contacted the eBay seller, who is based in Greece, and he said that he's never had a problem. He claimed that the difference in the width is because my old rings are just worn out. I dunno about that; what do y'all think?
Next issue - decomp valve. When I was turning it over with the decomp closed, I noticed some fuel was coming out of the decomp relief hole and dripping onto the cylinder fin. Looking closer, it noticed some carbon down there, too, like it had been leaking some when running. Removed the decomp and saw that there was a piece of the jug that wasn't cast properly, and there was a bit of metal right where the decomp plug fits in the hole. Did my best to remove it, but it was still leaking a bit. Compression was still pretty good at around 150 psi, however.
There was really no way to properly remove the metal and clean up the hole without slicing the jug apart, so I plugged the hole with some high heat metal epoxy and installed a dummy decomp, so it at least looks stock.
That definitely made a change -- compression is now 193 psi! That's by far the highest that I've registered on one of these saws.
Plan is to start it and tune it today; haven't started it yet, but it has really nice looking spark (had nothing before I went through the ignition) and carb has a fresh rebuild, too. I also coated the inside of the fuel tank with Red-Kote; the inner coating wasn't in great shape. Red-Kote worked well.
Here are a few finished pictures. I'll end up listing it for sale in the next day or so, along with a hard nose Jonsereds 36" bar or a roller tip Oregon 36" bar.
Scott.....what about ring end gap on the new rings? Can you put push them down the bore and still have decent end gap? I'm just wonder if they won't go on with the piston because the end gap closes completely.
Otherwise, those new rings are just wrong for this application.
Great compression figures for the OE rings.....I'd just use them if the Cabers are an issue. Like most old J'reds, I'd figure a high compression reading even on the 110/111/111S. That's amazing.........
Kevin
Otherwise, those new rings are just wrong for this application.
Great compression figures for the OE rings.....I'd just use them if the Cabers are an issue. Like most old J'reds, I'd figure a high compression reading even on the 110/111/111S. That's amazing.........
Kevin
Kevin - I did fit the rings in the jug - they fit. I didn't put a feeler gauge in the gap, but it looked good.
At 193 psi, I'm definitely going to leave it as-is.
Thanks,
Scott
At 193 psi, I'm definitely going to leave it as-is.
Thanks,
Scott
Pleased to report that the 110 runs great! Starts easily, idles well, revs easily, and oils well.
I set the idle at 2,200 which sounds about right. I have it tuned on the hi side to where it four strokes at WOT unloaded at 11,500 rpm. Does that sound about right? Acres lists the max rpm as 10,100 for a 111S. I didn't put a tach on it when it was WOT and not four stroking, but it had to be over 12,000.
I set the idle at 2,200 which sounds about right. I have it tuned on the hi side to where it four strokes at WOT unloaded at 11,500 rpm. Does that sound about right? Acres lists the max rpm as 10,100 for a 111S. I didn't put a tach on it when it was WOT and not four stroking, but it had to be over 12,000.
Looking for some input. I see lots of smaller Jonsereds for sale on cl, so been thinking of picking one up to compliment my 70e. What were the differences between 49sp, 51, 52(e), 521(e)? I'm assuming the e had heated handles. Also the newer variants share same motor but seem a little cheaper built...490, 510sp, etc.
And how do the 44cc saws compare 451ev, 50, etc?
Basically wondering which of the smaller saws are the ones to look for. Looking for a saw with solid build quality like 70e.
And how do the 44cc saws compare 451ev, 50, etc?
Basically wondering which of the smaller saws are the ones to look for. Looking for a saw with solid build quality like 70e.
For 'quality' the 621 fer sure and lots of parts still floating around. For a little smaller even though it wasn't designed as a 'pro' saw, the 49sp and it's fame will probably live on for another 30 yrs....lol.
But these are all OLD saw designs and the millennial/Gen z crowd will argue they are 'antiques' and there are much lighter and greater saws today. I don't even care to get into that argument as they go with fuel injection and/or computers. They are amazing saws....some of them, but it's all manufacturers in a death grip with the EPA regs and restrictions for NA. Software has to be upgraded, which forces dealer to spend on the equipment to do so etc. Some dealers are opting not to do that. Don't even consider a saw like that if your dealer can't/won't troubleshoot or upgrade the software.
Some people have both;old school and the new saws....I'm not sure I see the point other than braggin' rights.....but at least there are choices.
Kevin
But these are all OLD saw designs and the millennial/Gen z crowd will argue they are 'antiques' and there are much lighter and greater saws today. I don't even care to get into that argument as they go with fuel injection and/or computers. They are amazing saws....some of them, but it's all manufacturers in a death grip with the EPA regs and restrictions for NA. Software has to be upgraded, which forces dealer to spend on the equipment to do so etc. Some dealers are opting not to do that. Don't even consider a saw like that if your dealer can't/won't troubleshoot or upgrade the software.
Some people have both;old school and the new saws....I'm not sure I see the point other than braggin' rights.....but at least there are choices.
Kevin
Kevin thanks for the input. As you can see in my signature not much in the way of modern saws in my collection. My main cutting saws would be 670 Champ, 044 and a 10-10s. So something a little smaller than those would be great. I've seen a few 621 for sale and have heard they are one of Jonsereds greatest saws, but not sure how it fits in my line up. One of my 10-10s saws is warmed over a little bit and I would argue it'll cut as good as a 621. Really looking to fill gap between Husky 240 and 54/57cc Macs I have.
My 670 Champ has been acting up a bit lately. Probably gonna fix it and send it down the road. It's a great saw but I just can't run them all and 044 does most of same jobs 670 does.
My 670 Champ has been acting up a bit lately. Probably gonna fix it and send it down the road. It's a great saw but I just can't run them all and 044 does most of same jobs 670 does.
I can't cross-compare other marques....I only know the older Huskies and Jonsereds. And I don't really feel like I've 'missed' something in life in not knowing. I'm glad there is such diversity and the resulting opinions though.
I'm not sure of what your target cc is....if you want something as small as the 49sp or something a more like the 621. That should probably have something to do with it? Wait....just read the part about the gap you are trying to fill. Thinking the 49sp might be a good fit.
I think with a 621, you'd always be comparing it to the 10-10's and that's not really fair. The 621 is a durable pro saw....never billed as outrunning all its competition....but in quality, it can't be beat.
Kevin
I'm not sure of what your target cc is....if you want something as small as the 49sp or something a more like the 621. That should probably have something to do with it? Wait....just read the part about the gap you are trying to fill. Thinking the 49sp might be a good fit.
I think with a 621, you'd always be comparing it to the 10-10's and that's not really fair. The 621 is a durable pro saw....never billed as outrunning all its competition....but in quality, it can't be beat.
Kevin
Ok, few more questions. So seems as though there was overlap in production of 49sp and 52/521? Was the 52 a pro saw and 49sp more of a farm/home owner saw?
Now moving to 621. Dunno why but I was thinking 621 was precursor to 625/630 so was thinking it was 60cc class saw. I see now that it's a 56cc saw. Knowing that how does 621 compare to 49sp handling wise and power wise?
I know you said you don't know much about other brands. I've been more of Mac guy, 10-10s is a big time over achiever. At 57cc it really runs more like a low to mid 60cc saw. However, my absolute love of the 70e is drawing me towards another Jred. Guess as I evolve in my saw collecting I'd like to extend out to owning a couple real good models of other brands.
Now moving to 621. Dunno why but I was thinking 621 was precursor to 625/630 so was thinking it was 60cc class saw. I see now that it's a 56cc saw. Knowing that how does 621 compare to 49sp handling wise and power wise?
I know you said you don't know much about other brands. I've been more of Mac guy, 10-10s is a big time over achiever. At 57cc it really runs more like a low to mid 60cc saw. However, my absolute love of the 70e is drawing me towards another Jred. Guess as I evolve in my saw collecting I'd like to extend out to owning a couple real good models of other brands.
If a 621 fills a hole in your lineup, they're fantastic saws, inexpensive, and lots of spares. I've got about 4 complete ones on the shelf and 2 parts saws. PM me if you want one at a good price.
Well, this haul ended up being a bunch of junk. I didn't pay a lot for it; that's the only bright spot. The full wraps are both bent to he11 and back. If anyone needs any 80 parts, let me know, because I'm about to tear everything down and throw parts on eBay. Will not have any spare pistons, but jugs may still be good. No mufflers.
The 621 is a tank.....a real pro saw. But it's not a lightweight either. It has more low-end torque than the 49sp as you would expect because of more cc's and it's a Jonsereds....lol. The real stinkers in the line were what Robin calls the 5xx series. Famously found in dumpsters in his neck of the woods after they came out. That was Electrolux trying to find their way for awhile. With the purchase of Husqvarna though, they were once again able to keep Jonsered back on track.
The 621's were very expensive saws back in the day. Many peoiple opted not to get them for that reason. So the folks that did buy them, tended to take care of them. There's always been about 4 pages or more devoted to them on eBay....that's a good thing! They were very popular despite their price and earned an enviable reputation in the industry. Except for the ignition and round air filter, they don't share parts with other models....very proprietary that way.
The 49sp was billed as a 'semi-pro' saw I believe...Robin and Eric would know the ad terms they used. They cut corners on the saw compared to the build quality of the 621, for example. But....in spite of that, the design was so good overall, that it behaved and lasted like a pro saw. It turned out to be an iconic saw for Jonsereds...I don't ever remember anyone having one and saying it was a piece of junk....not one.
Kevin
The 621's were very expensive saws back in the day. Many peoiple opted not to get them for that reason. So the folks that did buy them, tended to take care of them. There's always been about 4 pages or more devoted to them on eBay....that's a good thing! They were very popular despite their price and earned an enviable reputation in the industry. Except for the ignition and round air filter, they don't share parts with other models....very proprietary that way.
The 49sp was billed as a 'semi-pro' saw I believe...Robin and Eric would know the ad terms they used. They cut corners on the saw compared to the build quality of the 621, for example. But....in spite of that, the design was so good overall, that it behaved and lasted like a pro saw. It turned out to be an iconic saw for Jonsereds...I don't ever remember anyone having one and saying it was a piece of junk....not one.
Kevin
Scott....I'd take the ignition plate with everything attached and the coil.....if you think they haven't been trashed or underwater at some point. Other than that, I'm poor with 80/90 parts. I thought I needed spare 90 AF covers and it grew to like 4....I have no idea how.
Oh and I'd take another 90 AF if it's decent shape.
Bummer, sorry about all the junk.
Kevin
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Awright......here is a quick run down of the 49, 50, 51, 52/52E and 521E(v).....the 50 and 51 I don't have much experience with ...they more or less lead up to the 49SP, 52/52E and 521. The 52 was the beginning....pro saw...two rings, closed and a robust points ign.....52E is the same saw but with with the SEM electronic ign.....ign NLA so ......though a great saw this can be an issue. The 52 is points and is basically the same points ign all the way to the 111S....so all this stuff is NLA too but many more avenues to keep it going. This bring us to the 49sp....of course my favorite ......a true semi pro saw.....single ring, points ign, open port. The stats are "Ho-Hum" but this is a great performer......quicker than the 52 series though not as heavy duty....a real nimbly saw for a lot of work. I could go on and on but that's just my bias. Now we come to the 521E......this is the "Cadillac" of the family...this is the only one of this family to boast electrically heated handles and a chain break right off the shelf. However this is not just a 52 with heated handles....they changed the entire flywheel side case half to allow for an alum flywheel with the stator for the heat under that and an outside mounted ign pick up...these also have a very different recoil cover.......same P&C/carb as the 52/52E. Have several and truly love them this time of year .....two speed heat!!!! BUT.......you must enjoy and be able to deal with obsolete gear in order to cut wood. I cut many years with a 70E and a 49SP so I consider that a good pairing from a Jreds point of view....they were current together and really were the first of the modern single ring Jonsereds...a stepping stone to what came later.
The 621 is a great work horse and probably close to the 49SP in production numbers ....pro saw all the way....truly the grandfather of all modern saws...an icon and very good choice......scary difference between a 621 and 10-10 Mac..... I so wanted to own a 621 back in the day but as Kevin said they were pricey........$350.00 in 1978......the 49sp was $250.00.......and that's the ONLY saw I ever bought brand new.......still running , better than new thanks to this site and the "enablers" .......
The 621 is a great work horse and probably close to the 49SP in production numbers ....pro saw all the way....truly the grandfather of all modern saws...an icon and very good choice......scary difference between a 621 and 10-10 Mac..... I so wanted to own a 621 back in the day but as Kevin said they were pricey........$350.00 in 1978......the 49sp was $250.00.......and that's the ONLY saw I ever bought brand new.......still running , better than new thanks to this site and the "enablers" .......
