Gawd, Scott....if either of those 80’s has a complete full-wrap, let’s talk!!
Kevin
Jonsered Chainsaws
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Kevin
Those old plastic bodied on/off switches J’reds used on many of their saw were one of the few parts they used that were ****. Delicate, almost impossible to service. Used parts places have been out of them for yes.
All you need is a switch that takes the same size hole. Nothing magical about a kill switch.....just grounds the coil. Possibly a Husky switch still in the parts loop?
Kevin
I’ll try to find it tomorrow. It’s in pieces and may have been trashed; broke couple years ago. Also did some in-thread search and discovered cantdog had given me some info about which models the switch is common with.
finally searched eBay again for part number 504 38 56 02. Seems that number has been superseded by 504 38 56 03
The models cantdog told me are “50, 49sp/52/52E, 621, 66/70E 60/90 and on and on and on all the 4XX saws and 5xx saws except the 490 and 590”
Found three on eBay
So, what can I say except I’m an idiot
finally searched eBay again for part number 504 38 56 02. Seems that number has been superseded by 504 38 56 03
The models cantdog told me are “50, 49sp/52/52E, 621, 66/70E 60/90 and on and on and on all the 4XX saws and 5xx saws except the 490 and 590”
Found three on eBay
So, what can I say except I’m an idiot
Seriously, I’d replace that OE switch with something more robust. And it’s especially painful to see how much money they get for those old used J’red switches.
Kevin
Kevin
These are listed as new husky OE. I’m thinking bout it. I’d probly have to make hole larger if I don’t go with OE
Yeah, figured you might. If it’s a better made switch, go for it! Buy a couple and forgetaboutit.....
I actually took one of those OE **** switches apart, fixed it and melted it back together. I absolutely do NOT recommend that.
Magnesium is almost like balsa wood. You could easily square file a switch keyway if you had to....some of the older Husky switches had that for proper orientation.
Kevin.
I actually took one of those OE **** switches apart, fixed it and melted it back together. I absolutely do NOT recommend that.
Magnesium is almost like balsa wood. You could easily square file a switch keyway if you had to....some of the older Husky switches had that for proper orientation.
Kevin.
Lemme dig up the pictures.
Funny thing about full wrap -- this past weekend I was poking around in my 621 pile (about 4 complete, a few parts saws, plus spare parts) and found one with a full wrap. Never noticed it before. Didn't realize these little guys came with a full wrap.
Here's what should be coming in the mail to me. I see what looks like one full wrap...but looking closer, maybe two?
I'm not sure, I still have mine. Thank you!
Yeah I tried fixing mine. Turned into such a loosing ordeal and kept breaking. I just quit wasting my time.
The whole time I’m thinking “loosing program” about the switch. Onliest switch like that I ever saw. I thought jonsered engineers had a “let’s design an off-the-wall, complex, weak switch” contest.
ive even taken “normal” switches apart and fixed them. Anyway,
The whole time I’m thinking “loosing program” about the switch. Onliest switch like that I ever saw. I thought jonsered engineers had a “let’s design an off-the-wall, complex, weak switch” contest.
ive even taken “normal” switches apart and fixed them. Anyway,
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Was it Dean's?
That sounds familiar. I've had about 10 of these, so it's hard to keep track of what came from where.
Robin - Good catch. They both have decomps. The more complete saw is definitely an 80 given the serial number. Was putting an 90 jug on an 80 a common mod way back when? I haven't looked at my 80 and 90 side by side to see how difficult that would be.
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Oh yeah...especially in the PNW.........direct boltup....same carb etc. only thing needed extra was a hole in the 80 top cover for the decomp. Those are likely early models due to the recoil screens being flat rather than rounded like the later 90s which had a rounded screen similar to 70E.
When parts were cheaper and more plentiful, yes, it was a common mod on the 80's. In the 801's...except for the early ones, they shared the same top cover as the 90 and so the hole was there for the decomp and just plugged with a rubber plug.
From your pics, I can only identify one handle as full wrap. It was cut and a bobble put on the end. This was common as the full-wrap had a unobtainium AV that completed it to the saw body on the PTO side. So....since most owners couldn't buy/find the AV, they just cut the full-wrap before the AV and fitted a bobble to the end for your hand.
Can't tell on the other wrap, but it looks like it extends past the joint weld. I would be surprised however, if it wasn't cut for the same reason.
Kevin
It's amazing they've lasted as long as they have. Completely maddening to work on, yes......they just fall apart.
And because of that they became rare as the dealer stock disappeared. No doubt Robin has a dozen of them NOS in his little OD 'green' Jonsereds dealer boxes....lol!!
Kevin
NEVER seen a full-wrap on a 621 before!! That is a very rare bird. I'm envious fer sure! Their factory wraps all had that distinctive cream/gray shrink padding. What color is the full-wrap?
I'd have to check the body of my 621 to see if it even had the shape to accept the AV mount at the end of the full-wrap. The 110/111/111S don't incorporate the AV back to the saw....too early a design.
Kevin
Ok. This stuff is coming out of Oregon. Hope to have it next week.
I thought these were originally cut like that - all of my 111 full wraps were cut too.
