Jonsered Chainsaws

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Thanks very much for the quick response!
Do you have a seal number or a supplier I could get the seals through?
I have a few seal and bearing places not far from me I could possibly buy them from if I had a number or measurements. Is there any special tools or tricks I should know before I get into changing them ...or maybe a good write up ..pics are always nice
Thanks again !
Erniethe OEM ones
The seals are the same ones used by all older Jonsereds.. These are the ones I use......they are 1 MM thicker/deeper than OEM. I have not put them in a 910 so just pay attention that they will seat far enough in to not interfere with the oil pump or flywheel.

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The seals are the same ones used by all older Jonsereds.. These are the ones I use......they are 1 MM thicker/deeper than OEM. I have not put them in a 910 so just pay attention that they will seat far enough in to not interfere with the oil pump or flywheel.

View attachment 895198
I was able to order them from my local bearing supplier ..not bad at $5.00 a piece .
Do you have a special way to remove the old one ?
I was going to just drill a small hole and get a hook tool in there and pry the old ones out . Being as small as they are shouldn't be to hard to remove .
Looks like the new ones would just be set flush with the case .
Thank you !
Ernie
 
Totally agrees with Robin.....if I don't know if the seals have been replaced and they are over 20yrs old I replace them. Incredibly cheap insurance against a lean run condition.

Not gonna name names but.....I know of at least a handful of people who bought large cc, rare saws....ran a few tanks of fuel through them, had seal leaks and toasted the top ends. Once a saw runs to lean, you should STOP everything and investigate what going on.

A number of ways to pull the seals. Some people just screw into them with sheet metal screw and pull them that way. I think we talked about this in here not long ago. I posted pics of a tool I used in the past and another one I think is better. You've got a bearing place, use them. Otherwise, most seals are Chinesium off eBay. Japanese seals are just fine, however. Try to get 'double lipped' seals.

Kevin
 
I was able to order them from my local bearing supplier ..not bad at $5.00 a piece .
Do you have a special way to remove the old one ?
I was going to just drill a small hole and get a hook tool in there and pry the old ones out . Being as small as they are shouldn't be to hard to remove .
Looks like the new ones would just be set flush with the case .
Thank you !
Ernie
Yeah, like Robin said, they will be a mm thicker than the OE.....so just set to flush.

Kevin
 
Really clean and original 630 Super for sale in Connecticut $275 if anyone is interested
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https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/...nel\":503,\"value\":0,\"upsell_type\":null}"}
Homelite enthusiast in training.
 
I managed to get everything disassembled without any issues for the new seals ..they should be here today .
One other question...
Is there a torque spec on the flywheel nut or just as tight as I can get it ?
While I have the clutch apart any sign to look for with that ...as far as wear or such .
I did notice a slight chatter in the cut ..feels like it's coming from the clutch side of the saw .

Thanks again !
Ernie
 

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I managed to get everything disassembled without any issues for the new seals ..they should be here today .
One other question...
Is there a torque spec on the flywheel nut or just as tight as I can get it ?
While I have the clutch apart any sign to look for with that ...as far as wear or such .
I did notice a slight chatter in the cut ..feels like it's coming from the clutch side of the saw .

Thanks again !
Ernie
Replace that drum bearing and make sure it stays greased. A lot of owners neglect this. On the drum itself, make sure that the thinnest place on the side wall is a couple of mm....most SM's say 1mm....but I personally think if they are that thin, replace. Check out the spring that hold the shoes together for wear and tightness.

As far as torque spec for the nut, my Service manual for the 90 says 25ft/lbs. Use a 3/8" drive racket with a short handle so you're not tempted to over tighten...if you don't have a torque wrench.

Kevin
 
Replace that drum bearing and make sure it stays greased. A lot of owners neglect this. On the drum itself, make sure that the thinnest place on the side wall is a couple of mm....most SM's say 1mm....but I personally think if they are that thin, replace. Check out the spring that hold the shoes together for wear and tightness.

As far as torque spec for the nut, my Service manual for the 90 says 25ft/lbs. Use a 3/8" drive racket with a short handle so you're not tempted to over tighten...if you don't have a torque wrench.

Kevin
My drum is between 1.5 - 1.7mm
I think I'm going to just replace it and be on the safe side .
Would you recommend a replacement for me ?
Thanks !
Ernie
 
There's life in that drum yet. I'd get an Oregon drum.....probably better chance of finding that than the OE Jonsereds.....but maybe a tossup. Check out chainsawr, sawagain, eBay etc.

With some patience, I found an Oregon drum new in a box for a 111S......so they're out there.

Kevin
 
There's life in that drum yet. I'd get an Oregon drum.....probably better chance of finding that than the OE Jonsereds.....but maybe a tossup. Check out chainsawr, sawagain, eBay etc.

With some patience, I found an Oregon drum new in a box for a 111S......so they're out there.

Kevin
I was able to find a drum but no luck with the clutch.
Would you have a part number by chance for the Oregon clutch and bearing ?
Thanks!
Ernie
 
I was able to find a drum but no luck with the clutch.
Would you have a part number by chance for the Oregon clutch and bearing ?
Thanks!
Ernie
Well, as I remember it, you got a box from Oregon with a clutch drum, bearing and maybe a floating rim sprocket too if that's what you were looking for. As far as the clutch shoes and spring, that was more likely from a dealer with Jonsereds part #'s.

On the 910e the shoes were;504 54 40 08. The spring was;504 21 00 34

Kevin
 
1994 630 Super 2
Two fuel lines coming up. OEM part is 503577601 and spiraled.
What I have cracks when I put them back on the carb nipple.
I have other needs of fuel line. What is a good aftermarket fuel line that will work rather that OEM? 7DFCDED0-B9A2-417C-B395-041ADCED40DE.jpeg
 
1994 630 Super 2
Two fuel lines coming up. OEM part is 503577601 and spiraled.
What I have cracks when I put them back on the carb nipple.
I have other needs of fuel line. What is a good aftermarket fuel line that will work rather that OEM? View attachment 895763
Unless a fuel line has a built in grommet, I measure it and go down to the local Honda outdoor equipment co and find something suitable. Their stuff seems to last indefinitely.

I'm sure there are online sources as well....just never done that for fuel line.

Kevin
 
Ok thank you. The line connecting to the filter is much longer that the other one. Does the other one need to be in gas or is it just creating a vent or loop. The carb nipple it connects to looks almost like it’s plugged with a slug of brass, but has a pin hole for some reason feeding back to the carb.
 

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