I didn't see any residue on the seals at all.The bare metal was nice 'n shiny.They were just one helluva tight fit & in there for quite a while.I was told that the new seals would be rubber coated.I don't know if that's good or bad.That tiny bit of rubber coating could make the seals fit even tighter,I hope not.
Jonsered Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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I've had my issues with the guys over on Chainsawr.First off they brag that they're the world's largest supplier of used chainsaw parts,highly doubtful IMO.Every time I go on their site looking for a part it seems that they're "out of stock".I recently had no choice but to buy an air filter for my 910E.The price was astronomical for a used filter,double what the price should've been IMO.They're getting as bad,if not worse than the sellers on Feebay.
I also need the AV grommets that fit in the handle on my 910E.I found them on Feebay for $14 apiece.I refuse to pay a ridiculous price for something that's only worth $2.50.I tried Grainger & they have squat.My next step is to try McMaster Carr.
Yeah, many are rubber....it isn't an issue...if there's a lot extra, it shaves off as you drive them in.
Yes, by all means don't hold out for a high priced NOS part that may be unobtainium if you can find something else that works perfectly. Some guy on eBay sold me a O-ring for $8 once. His pic showed like four of them. He did state somewhere that it was for one......I missed that. He was not willing to refund....I'm much more careful on reading the descriptions now....lol!
Sometimes though you have to pay the piper.....like AF's and whatever. AV parts on eBay for the 910e trigger handle are astronomical and have been for a long time. That was a weakness built into the saw. If you got the saw pinched in a cut, you could NOT tug hard on the handle or you would rip out the AV's.
Chainsawr has had a problem in the past with tire kickers. They would send a guy out in the yard to find a part(s) and then many potential buyers would bail. It's more a fault with Scott's business model, than anything else. If you have to pay someone every time to go look for a part, maybe having everything inventoried and on a computer makes more sense.....I dunno.
Kevin
Why thank you!
I'll try and come in here often, rather than rely on AS notifications....lol.
Kevin
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Yes good to see you back on Kevin
Welcome Back!
Thanks guys.....missed this place!
Kevin
Kevin
What he said.... i was beginning to wonder myself.
JimmyG
ArboristSite Lurker
Do they have seals for the 820?
Metric seals and they're going to be 15X30X6 if you can find it or 15X30X7 fits as well. Bearing house is the best place or Amazon, eBay. Sawagain or chainsawr worth a check. If you have a Fastenal, give them a shot.
Kevin
Kevin
Here you go:
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/4190421
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/4190421
JimmyG
ArboristSite Lurker
That's great. I ordered a pair from amazon recently but the description was sparse. They arrived without the steel exterior shell. They seem to have a metal ring cast into the rubber that gives them rigidity but I am hesitant to use them.
Unless they are Chicom, I wouldn't hesitate to use them. On Amazon unless they decribe their origin, they will be Chicom. Amazon is a wasteland of Chicom parts....complete with poorly written English descriptions and people writing you back from your inquiry calling you "Dear".
It's just plasticized rubber over steel....very common now on newer seals.
Kevin
It's just plasticized rubber over steel....very common now on newer seals.
Kevin
The rubber was added to make the seals more forgiving to expansion and contraction when dissimilar metals are used. It is not an issue with chainsaws as there is not enough heat to make that a problem.
The rubber coated seals work very well.
My seal guy says almost every metric seal is now made in China.
JimmyG
ArboristSite Lurker
Popped the rubber exterior seals in yesterday, a non-event. the saw ran much better. I havent had time to put it in some deep wood yet.
I pulled the seals on the 2nd 49SP today.Much easier this time around using a drywall screw & pliers to pull them out.I took your advice Tim & hit down on the seal first to break it loose,still a fairly tight fit to get out.I noticed there's a lip in the seal compartment so the seal can't be driven in too far,great idea.
I ordered the seals in person from my local bearing house last Fri.& they assured me that I'd have them by the end of this week,well they lied.I called them yesterday to see where the seals were.Good thing I called,they had no name on the seals even though I gave them my debit card as payment.I'm supposed to get them on Mon.Keep your fingers crossed,this is my first seal replacement.
I ordered the seals in person from my local bearing house last Fri.& they assured me that I'd have them by the end of this week,well they lied.I called them yesterday to see where the seals were.Good thing I called,they had no name on the seals even though I gave them my debit card as payment.I'm supposed to get them on Mon.Keep your fingers crossed,this is my first seal replacement.
Usually, if there's no ridge, you drive them exactly flush. But always take note of exactly where the old ones were.
You probably got the 15X30X7 size, so they're thicker than the OE. There's still room...just make sure they don't go in further than flush.
Kevin
You probably got the 15X30X7 size, so they're thicker than the OE. There's still room...just make sure they don't go in further than flush.
Kevin
Hello Jonsered people. I’ve aquired a couple Jonsered 90’s. I’m trying to troubleshoot a no spark problem.
I’ve never owned or worked on one before. Looks like a two piece ignition. Coil or transformer under the cylinder cover and a breaker points , condenser and coil winding under the flywheel. Points look a bit dirty and the gap is a bit wide. I’m surprised that it’s not sparking a bit as is but will clean and set the gap accordingly.
if it still not sparking are there other common problems with this system to check? Condenser would be a typical component to fail I suppose. Looks a bit tricky to install an electronic chip on these saws….
I’ve never owned or worked on one before. Looks like a two piece ignition. Coil or transformer under the cylinder cover and a breaker points , condenser and coil winding under the flywheel. Points look a bit dirty and the gap is a bit wide. I’m surprised that it’s not sparking a bit as is but will clean and set the gap accordingly.
if it still not sparking are there other common problems with this system to check? Condenser would be a typical component to fail I suppose. Looks a bit tricky to install an electronic chip on these saws….
95% of the time with the J'reds point system, the problem lies in fact that the PO didn't understand points and has ruined or misadjusted something in the point itself.
Yes, the condenser can fail, but those are usually replaced when there is nothing wrong with them. Next likely place to look for spark problems would be where the spark lead is inside the rubber boot. Often the lead has detached and is not making contact. Also, follow all the wires to make usre they are intact and not bare anywhere. Check the kill switch.....completely disconnect that wire to the switch and see if you have spark.....most often a bad switch.
As far as chipping them, the J'red OE points system is really good and durable. All my 80/90 saws start three pulls cold or less if I'm quick with the choke. You're not going to improve anything with a chip...you're just bypassing the point.
Kevin
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Yep.....9 times out of 10 loss of spark will be oxidized points contacts or burnt contacts....that is where I'd start looking first. But the other things Kevin pointed out are valid as well.....including a negative view of installing a chip. You get the points set up properly once and you'll never have to fuss with them again the rest of the life of the saw.
