Wombat Ranger
ArboristSite Operative
Trade me something 80cc+
Jonsered Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
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sledhead34
ArboristSite Operative
IVE GOT A 372 XP BROKEN HANDLE WHICH IM working on buts that`s my workhorse hate the plastic handle saws for that reason they break
Im patching the metal tank on a Husky 162 right now.
Kash
Kash
It can be an air leak in a boot. But don't rule out leaking crank seals because they toast pistons more than anything else. Vacuum/pressure test the crank case and also your carb itself.
Yes, most likely the jug chamber ran too lean to cause the scoring. If it's just high idle because of a faulty/dirty carb, not likely to toast the piston. I've had better luck on the older design with the impulse channel in the manifold, than I have with the rubber boot intake. Both have their merits I guess. Rubber boots that are NLA make things tough.
Kevin
I have repaired several Stihl 031 and 032 intake boots.I used the black rubber like caulk they use for replacing car wind shields I have also filled cracks on my old farm tractor tires stuff is not cheap 26.00 for a standard caulking gun tube.
Great stuff
Kash
Great stuff
Kash
Hey Kash, does that stuff stick to plastic gas tanks? I have a 73 ski doo skandic that has a crack in the lower half of the L shaped tank.
That would be window butyl caulk. Good stuff. I've tried to repair rubber diaphragms in the past with black silicon and had mixed results. But that black butyl is in another class of its own. It would have to be gas resistant to last.
According to chemical info sites online, it's a definite no for gasoline. Gas on the other hand, like they put in between window panes, yes.
Kevin
Clyde 85 I have lots of older Skidoos what color tank do you have white or black.The best repairs I have done to plastic gas tanks is welding it.all you need is a good soldering iron and if you can find a scrap tank in the same color the tank will be your welding rod material.If you do not have a scrap tank you can usually get by by puddling the sides of your crack on your tank or I use string trimmer line.Clean the crack really good and keep melting and pushing the sides of the crack into the trench you make.Basical V the crack and push fill it.
I have repaired many metal tanks on Honda 3 wheelers and others by using the two part exoxy you knead together I just did a Husqvarna 162 tank the other nite I used the one recomended for underwater it is the LockTite brand but lots of others Devcon etc.It comes in a plastic tube case looks about the size of a big cigar I remember now I did a weed whacker tank that was plastic it really holds but your best bet is to rough up the surface so it really sticks.
When I get time I will give you the name of the product that I used on the carb boots I did not use the windshield stuff on the boots .The stuff I used came in a plastic encased tube black and about 12 inches long and 3 inches thick I cant remember the real name but I bet you can guess what some low lifes call it.
Kash
I have repaired many metal tanks on Honda 3 wheelers and others by using the two part exoxy you knead together I just did a Husqvarna 162 tank the other nite I used the one recomended for underwater it is the LockTite brand but lots of others Devcon etc.It comes in a plastic tube case looks about the size of a big cigar I remember now I did a weed whacker tank that was plastic it really holds but your best bet is to rough up the surface so it really sticks.
When I get time I will give you the name of the product that I used on the carb boots I did not use the windshield stuff on the boots .The stuff I used came in a plastic encased tube black and about 12 inches long and 3 inches thick I cant remember the real name but I bet you can guess what some low lifes call it.
Kash
Thanks Kash. It is the white tank. It looks like someone tried welding it before. I have tried several of the epoxies. The one that lasted the longest was called tech steel.
Lots of tutorials on plastic welding online, including stapling pieces back together with metal fasteners designed for plastics.
The tricky thing about plastics is you need the same material back if you're repairing a seam in something like a gas tank. A real plastic welding kit includes many different plastic 'rods', depending on what kind of plastic you're attacking. Noodle around YouTube for all the different plastic mending methods.....pick your poison.
I'd be very curious about what kind of stuff you're using to successfully bond cracks and splits on like a carb boot.
Kevin
The tricky thing about plastics is you need the same material back if you're repairing a seam in something like a gas tank. A real plastic welding kit includes many different plastic 'rods', depending on what kind of plastic you're attacking. Noodle around YouTube for all the different plastic mending methods.....pick your poison.
I'd be very curious about what kind of stuff you're using to successfully bond cracks and splits on like a carb boot.
Kevin
The boots were repaired with SikaFlex 268 the windshield rubber is Betaseal U-418
Kash
Kash
I just repaired an AV mount for a MS 201 with that
I was confused I guess....thought you repaired the boot with window butyl.
A lot of AV's are just torn where they are bonded to the metal.....there are industrial adhesives for that application. As far as bonding the rubber-isk AV stuff back to itself, I've never had any luck, although never tried window butyl.
Their website says SikaFlex 268 is resistant to a wide variety of "cleaning agents"....doesn't say anything about gasoline. I guess if it works, it works.....lol.
Kevin
Greetings J-red friends. I hardly ever run a saw outside of the three months leading up to syrup season, so have not been around here. Back in the woods though now. I now have three 49SP running good. But only one cutting real well. Put a new chain on one so should be two cutting well. Old chain was sharpened until there was nothing left.
My best one I had to put a new sprocket on. So went ahead and got new chain and bar. Going to do that to one other one as well. That means I will have a Tilton bar that will now go unused. Need one Robin? I will give it away to the first person that asks if they are among the crew here who are relentlessly answering questions for all of us. I know some of you seem to be fans of those original bars.
Two of my 49SP have dogs. One doesn't. Are originals easy to find? Easy to re drill and custom fit from some other brand?
Also, kind of bugs me one unit does not have stickers on it. Are they available? I intend these all for use in the woods but gosh I want them to look good on the shelf the other 9 months of the year.
My best one I had to put a new sprocket on. So went ahead and got new chain and bar. Going to do that to one other one as well. That means I will have a Tilton bar that will now go unused. Need one Robin? I will give it away to the first person that asks if they are among the crew here who are relentlessly answering questions for all of us. I know some of you seem to be fans of those original bars.
Two of my 49SP have dogs. One doesn't. Are originals easy to find? Easy to re drill and custom fit from some other brand?
Also, kind of bugs me one unit does not have stickers on it. Are they available? I intend these all for use in the woods but gosh I want them to look good on the shelf the other 9 months of the year.
Tractorsaw1
ArboristSite Guru
630 Jonsered picked up on the cheap - $50. Seems to start & run decent but starves out of fuel quickly- appears to need new fuel line - which 1 do I need - this is a silver tag saw. Guy I bought it from said had new carb in the fall - it doesn’t look new but maybe rebuilt. Fuel line feels pretty thin and not long enough to clear the throttle linkage. Has an og 20” total bar and oils real nice. Also seems like the recoil gets bound up - is there a sleeve on the shaft that needs replaced? Thanks!
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Gamma Woods
ArboristSite Operative
First off, for $50 that belongs in the "**** you" thread!
I've recently rebuilt a 625, the tried and true 3mmX6mm Echo bulk line fits nice and snug.
Have you done a compression test?
I'd check the carb and see if the screen is clean, diaphragms are supple. How far out are the needles?
Fuel starving could also indicate an air leak, if you've got the means to pressure test then that's a good idea.
How do you mean the recoil gets bound up? If it's reluctant to bring the pull cord all the way in, as if it were sticking and the spring doesn't have the strength to pull through it, you might need a new spring (or to clean the cord and pulley a bit). You can sometimes get away with wrapping the cord around another turn tighter, but it's more of a band aid. If it seems like the cord is pinching itself, getting bound up, you might have the wrong diameter cord on it. Might be part of the mechanism (could be the pulley) is worn and catching something wrong, or there's a foreign object bouncing around the flywheel.
Tractorsaw1
ArboristSite Guru
No I did not test compression, it felt decent on the pull cord. It seems like from time to time the rewind pulley gets in a bind pulling out & then won't retract. I actually had to take it off as rope was stuck out & could see it was in there at an angle
The recoil on saws is a 'symphony' affair;everything works together. You have to have the right thickness of rope which is critical. There is usually some kind of replacable 'sleeve' that has to be clean and lubricated. Also the spring itself should be clean and lubricated. And don't forget the pawl dogs have to be clean & lubricated and their springs intact.
Hard to say from a keyboard what your particular issue is.
I'd pull the muffler and make sure there are no transfers before I did anything else. If it looks good in there, I'd do a pressure/vac test next as said above. If you don't have the tool, at least replace the crank seals as that will minimize the damage you can do running lean from seal air leaks. And most of all, don't trust what anybody says about the saw or what they have done....verify yourself!
Kevin
Hard to say from a keyboard what your particular issue is.
I'd pull the muffler and make sure there are no transfers before I did anything else. If it looks good in there, I'd do a pressure/vac test next as said above. If you don't have the tool, at least replace the crank seals as that will minimize the damage you can do running lean from seal air leaks. And most of all, don't trust what anybody says about the saw or what they have done....verify yourself!
Kevin
I looked at the IPL's and there is no bushing showing for the 630 starter.
My two bits, on every saw I've come across that has a binding recoil it's because the recoil pulley has started to split in half and the rope pinches itself.
