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I always use all the parts in the full rebuild kit including the Welsh plugs. However, since I started using the USC, I've not found any debris in either Welsh cavity. Custom tells me to keep doing it, but it's probably moot.

Also, always take hold of the throttle shaft and force it sideways to test lateral play. If I have a lot, I won't use the carb because it won't tune properly. It's not usually the carb body that's worn out, but the shaft brass. If you have other parts carbs, you can sub in shafts that may make the fit tight again.

When I was buying carbs off eBay, I'd always ask the seller to test for throttle shaft lateral play. If I got the carb and it had play they went back or I got a refund. One seller balked and said he didn't understand what I was asking for in his defense, but eBay reviewed the conversation and sided with me.

Kevin
 
I went to buy a 70 and came home with a 910 instead! The seller did have what seemed like 1000 saws. An entire semi full, stacked until you could barely squeeze down the aisle. Then in another shed where he works he had a shelf of ready to use saws. Freshly gone thru and operational. He had just gone thru the 70 and she looked nice. But it just would not start and stay running. At some point he said he could grab a different 70. I asked what about the 910? So he brought that too. Said it hadn't been run in two years. It fired right up and said "put me to work"! He only wanted 50 more so I brought it home. He did get the original 70 running and tuned one of my saws for me. Pretty good deal in my view. I left one 49SP with him that stalls out like a loose or frayed ignition wire.
Anyhow, I am super excited to have the 910. I will use it for some milling and big tree cutting. Going to put a 36 inch bar on it.
Anything I should know about this saw? Tips on bar or chain? Decomp seems not to work but I don't mind. 68CDBFF1-5B9A-4B83-8D0D-09B9531FCC65.jpeg
 
Yes ask about 111/111S stuff and A/V's for the 910. I think member Bulletproof(Scott) is desperately needing a top cover for a 111. I'm desperately looking for a 111S full-wrap. Never turn down ignition coils for any models you have....910 especially.

Just make sure on the 910 that the impulse line has no leaks and the carb boot isn't leaking cracked etc. You lean it, you'll kill it.

The 910 has a really funky wrap-handle....ask him if he has any full-wraps for that saw. The trigger handle has notoriously weak A'/V's. If you pinch your bar and pull hard on the trigger handle, you'll rip the A/V's.

It will have no trouble running a 36" bar with 3/8" chisel chain, .058 gauge. It doesn't have enough grunt to run a 36" bar with .404 chisel chain. You'd have to walk it down to 32-34" and .058 gauge, not .063 if using .404 chain.

I've told the story in here about a guy coming to my loggin' show and letting me use a new 910e set up with a 28" bar for the day. I had a 80 that I was using as a backup saw in smaller timber. I used the 910e for exactly what I used the 80 for. I don't remember the chain or the gauge, but I suspect, him knowing me, it was square file chisel chain. It was lighter than the 80 but not so much that it made my life easier. My 80 is kind of a hot rod saw and so the the 910e didn't just walk away from it. At the end of the day I wasn't exactly smokin' the tires to get to the saw shop and buy one.

All that being said, it's a great saw for medium timber if set up right. I have three waiting to be set up and used.

Kevin
 
xl130 said:
What style carb? If it’s a Walboro SDC or Tillotson HS then the small plug has an atomizer screen for the hi speed circuit.

The large plug has no screen but there are three holes for the lo speed circuit.

Some SDC have a check valve under the small plug. I had a saw that wouldn’t run and sure enough someone had rebuilt the carb and not reinstalled the check valve! Easy fix once I figured it out.

I would go ahead and pop them out. It’s pretty simple. Always a good idea to pressure test after pressing in the new plugs though.There is typically no reason to pop the plugs out but if your still having problems you might as well.

Here is a video I made one time. It may help you?

Click to expand...

xl130 said:
There is typically no reason to pop the plugs out but if your still having problems you might as well
Click to expand...
I have to disagree. If there is fuel there, it should be removed and cleaned. If I rebuild a carb that has welch plug or plugs, they come out. That is the only way to be absolutely sure all passages are clean. Here in KY, we have junk fuel. Ethanol to be exact. Made from corn. Microscopic particles of that crap will bypass any filter out there. Where do they wind up? In the Carb. jmho :cool: OT
 
I tell anyone with a small engine to buy non-ethanol gas. And if that's not at your pumps anymore, than buy the canned stuff IF you don't use your saws that often. If you're using a lot of gas and only ethanol is available....do the research for specific treatment additives.

Kevin
 
Real1shepherd said:
Nice score!

eBay is a last resort to me or the place where I can find something that I can't find anywhere else. Sometimes some 'deals' slip through....to the chagrin of the seller, I'm sure.

Gotta find these old guys now in sheds, barns, garages, estate auctions and the like. The infectious exaggeration of ebay has even started to affect prices on craigslist around here in large cc saws. The automatic knee-jerk response in figuring out what an old big cc saw is worth, is to go to eBay and check them out. Forget the fact that a lot of those saws don't sell and/or are listed as you say, in perpetuity.

Good homes always to be found with forum members....lol

Kevin
Click to expand...
I used to ck local online auctions located in the large nearby city. I got a nice jonserud 90 that no one bid on for 40.00 City folks not into chainsaws. Out in the country many would want it. Also met a woman from Sweden who gave me the correct Swedish way to pronounce Jonserud and husqvarna It's like "Yans er rud and "huss var na"
 
I managed to tune the behavior out of the 820 a bit by setting the idle way higher than I would normally like and having the L jet set about 1.5 turns. Still changes RPM when tilted forward, but not enough to be aggravating. We'll see what happens when I try to use it next.

In the meantime, I'm getting tired of the 490 leaking bar oil, it's a bit tricky to track down but I noticed my oil cap is in really rough shape. Wondering if anyone has found another brand/style of cap that would fit this small hole? Not finding much luck tracking one down.
 
Gamma Woods said:
I managed to tune the behavior out of the 820 a bit by setting the idle way higher than I would normally like and having the L jet set about 1.5 turns. Still changes RPM when tilted forward, but not enough to be aggravating. We'll see what happens when I try to use it next.

In the meantime, I'm getting tired of the 490 leaking bar oil, it's a bit tricky to track down but I noticed my oil cap is in really rough shape. Wondering if anyone has found another brand/style of cap that would fit this small hole? Not finding much luck tracking one down.
Click to expand...
Partner 500, 5000 and 5000+ used the same size oil tank plug. Try bplust on ebay..... he usually has a bunch of 490/590 parts listed...... if you don't see anything, message him, he's a good guy... I've bought from him and we've swap parts once in a while.
 
That makes sense.....a lot of Partner influence on those saws....they were built on the Partner line after Electrolux Group AB moved Jonsered(s) over there. Then eventually Husky influence.

Trivia: the Swedes supposedly say, "Yans-er-rud" for Jonsered and "Huss-varna" for Husky(shout out to bmwr27). No hard 'K' sound after the 'Huss' as you're hearing people say these days. If you're Swedish speaking, weigh in!

Kevin
 
Yeah, also shares some parts with a PP 325 and a Jobu something or other, but no luck with those search options either. I sent a message to bplust, then I can track down any other leak points.
 
What's everyone's thoughts with this piston ?
I've been looking for a piston for my 820 with no luck ...OEM anyway.
I have a "decent" one in my parts pile with some minor scuffs on the exhaust side ...they don't seem very deep and could possibly been cleaned up .
If I was able to get it looking decent and threw a new set of cabers on it would it be usable..or could it possibly cause more damage ?
Thanks
Ernie
 

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ErnieG said:
What's everyone's thoughts with this piston ?
I've been looking for a piston for my 820 with no luck ...OEM anyway.
I have a "decent" one in my parts pile with some minor scuffs on the exhaust side ...they don't seem very deep and could possibly been cleaned up .
If I was able to get it looking decent and threw a new set of cabers on it would it be usable..or could it possibly cause more damage ?
Thanks
Ernie
Click to expand...
Well, obviously not optimum........but the scoring looks to be carbon scoring and not an over heating situation with deep gouges, and where the ring lands are melted and rings seized in the grooves. It would probably run fine with new rings and a good cleaning but I would keep on the search for a better one. Easily replaced later. I doubt it would cause any problems unless used very, very hard.
 
Ernie, do the redneck piston test;leave the spark plug in...take the piston and drop it into the cylinder with the cylinder upside down in your hands. No rings on....it should float to the bottom(which is actually the top of the piston). It you drop it in and it goes CLUNK.....I would toss it.

Take a brown Scotch pad and gently polish away the marks using a solvent like brake cleaner, gas or whatever. Like Robin said, they look to us more like carbon streaks then metal transfers....but we're not there.

Kevin
 

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