Just became a OWB owner last night...

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Wouldn't the temperature differential negate some of the extra insulation?

I have Logstor that is buried 6' down in sandy soil. The surrounding temp has to be near 50 degrees in the winter. Any culvert that is not snow covered is in temps that would have reached as low as -25 this winter in our area.

gg

That's an excellent point which I had never contemplated previously. Another disadvantage of above ground is that if the pump failed and water stopped everything could freeze. That problem is negated when your lines are buried several feet down.
 
That's an excellent point which I had never contemplated previously. Another disadvantage of above ground is that if the pump failed and water stopped everything could freeze. That problem is negated when your lines are buried several feet down.
yea but worst case scenario if the pump goes out you can close the valve on the boiler and disconnect the line at boiler or in house (which ever is lower) and drain the 3-8 gallons you might have in the 1"-1.25" line. From what I've read you need to keep a spare pump or pump rebuild kit on hand to repair as soon as it breaks.
 
I didn't see any pics of the pipe that failed, just the melted snow. Did I miss something, were there pictures of the pipe or the failed part.
I don't understand how closed cell foam can absorb water like a sponge as the one guy said. I've seen chunks of it floating in water for years. Kinda like fishing bobbers made of the stuff. I'm sure nothing last forever. Is this the only issue that comes up on a search, I haven't heard of any others. And still no pics from a leak 2 seasons old that was supposed to be well documented. I really like the guys grass growing story.
You do get what you pay for, its hard to swallow $10-$18 a foot pipe, but then it could be worse, having to buy and install twice. Not to mention all the extra wood you burn with cheap pipe. I guess that's why some burn 15-20 cords and their neighbor burn half.
 
yea but worst case scenario if the pump goes out you can close the valve on the boiler and disconnect the line at boiler or in house (which ever is lower) and drain the 3-8 gallons you might have in the 1"-1.25" line. From what I've read you need to keep a spare pump or pump rebuild kit on hand to repair as soon as it breaks.
Where you located in Iowa?
 
That thermopex foam will soak up water like a sponge when submerged. Ever seen waterlogged boat flotation?
 
Yeah there's no way the wife would go for that... Her two requirements are that it is easy to run in case I'm gone, and can't be right next to the "pretty house."

Doug one of my cutting friends has a OWB and is an electrical engineer by trade. A really smart and talented guy to have around when questions arise. I'm sure he'll help me pick a good spot to place it. He is very well informed on the mechanics and how these work and will have good input on what might be easiest in the long run for me.

Doug is a pretty smart & talented guy! That's why I married him! :) Congrats on the new boiler.
 
I really like Lapeers boiler project, I don't see that freezing even in Alaska, and from your pics, looks like all you need is a little fire and the water will thermosyphon itself if a pump goes out.
I wonder if you could pressurize thermopex , as if the pex pipe itself failed and the pumps pushed water into the foam. The big thing is no air gaps, hot water cold ground and an airspace would make me worry about condensation.
 
I didn't see any pics of the pipe that failed, just the melted snow. Did I miss something, were there pictures of the pipe or the failed part.
I don't understand how closed cell foam can absorb water like a sponge as the one guy said. I've seen chunks of it floating in water for years. Kinda like fishing bobbers made of the stuff. I'm sure nothing last forever. Is this the only issue that comes up on a search, I haven't heard of any others. And still no pics from a leak 2 seasons old that was supposed to be well documented. I really like the guys grass growing story.
You do get what you pay for, its hard to swallow $10-$18 a foot pipe, but then it could be worse, having to buy and install twice. Not to mention all the extra wood you burn with cheap pipe. I guess that's why some burn 15-20 cords and their neighbor burn half.
you are correct about no pics of the damaged pipe. but in all fairness I've done the same thing numerous times. (fixed something, then realized you should of taken pics) the pics sure look like there is a pipe underground that is melting the snow. also I noticed how he was sure to mention that he wasn't ripping on cb, or their pipe. he said it worked great for the first few years. also the cb dealer had a type of tape to fix the problem. so either repairs or or splits happen often enough that they have made a tape for repairs. he also mentioned how his friend had the same problem but how both of their pipe came off the same roll so perhaps it was just a flaw in the manufacturing process on that one single roll. so since he was going outta his way to speak highly of cb. its likely he is telling the truth and not just a disgruntled customer.

big daddy jak-- have you calculated how much you spent total on your underground pipe. just guessing, your up to $260 with the 1" pex lines and 4" tile. do you recall what you spent on insulation and duct tape?
 
When it comes to underground water lines I think Logstor might be the best underground water line there is but it’s very costly and hard to work with. I do not know what type of foam is used inside the casing so if the casing were to crack down the road would the foam absorb the water? I don’t know..

I was the person who wrote to look in to ThermoFlex . I for one would never tell a person what to do and I would never guess a any product. I can only tell you what I did and what I found out.. After doing 8 months of research and my Micky Mouse Testing, I decided to go with the ThermoFlex Water Line by GTGlobe Ind. ThermoFlex water Lines use a Polyethylene Closed-Cell type foam so it will not absorb water even if the outer black casing were to be punctured by a rock down the road. My water lines run 145 ft to the house and most of that line (except for 18 ft) are 24 inches underground. The water line that runs to the garage is 35 ft and 18 inches underground (except for the 2 ft shown in the pictures below.

Before I ran my water lines, I did a test. I had several types of water line and insulation that were 1 ft long. I first weighed each piece. I put all of these in a 55 gallon barrel of water, I sealed the top of the barrel and put in 20 PSI of air. I let the test barrel sit for one week and then removed the test pieces and weighed each. Like some said in the posting on here; a few of the pieces of insulation test pipe were saturated with water. Some of the wrapped type bubble insulation were holding water between the wraps so I wouldn’t be to sure how well this insulation would work. The ThermoFlex had no water in the poly foam and weight the same as it was dry when installed. After doing my test, I went with the Thermo Flex or the (Polyethylene type foam)

When looking for an insulation I read this about the Poly Type Foam.

“Polyethylene is closed-cell foam, meaning its structure is made of millions of tiny bubbles, sealed off from each other. This provides a resistance to water, in addition to a strength and rigidity not present in open-cell foams. It is also resistant to solvents, petroleum products, and is antimicrobial as well, inhibiting the growth of mold, mildew, and bacteria. A resilient material, polyethylene returns to form after compression, while still yielding enough to provide cushion and security where it is needed. It is these characteristics, combined with its versatility and customization possibilities, which make it useful in so many applications.”

It was -3º F when I woke up this morning so I went out to take a picture of the underground water line going to my shop and garage. When I installed the OWB I didn’t want to dig under the shop slab make a hole in the floor so I ran the water line up from the ground, along the outside of the shop and through the wall. This line has been this way for several years now and I do not see any heat loss through the pipe. You can see how the ice is formed around the outside of the black pipe. This was frozen water from the melted snow from the roof. The second picture shows Frost on the outside of the pipe.
For some reason my pictures do now always work but I'll give it a try.

Black Pipe001.jpg Black Pipe002.jpg
 
When it comes to underground water lines I think Logstor might be the best underground water line there is but it’s very costly and hard to work with. I do not know what type of foam is used inside the casing so if the casing were to crack down the road would the foam absorb the water? I don’t know..

I was the person who wrote to look in to ThermoFlex . I for one would never tell a person what to do and I would never guess a any product. I can only tell you what I did and what I found out.. After doing 8 months of research and my Micky Mouse Testing, I decided to go with the ThermoFlex Water Line by GTGlobe Ind. ThermoFlex water Lines use a Polyethylene Closed-Cell type foam so it will not absorb water even if the outer black casing were to be punctured by a rock down the road. My water lines run 145 ft to the house and most of that line (except for 18 ft) are 24 inches underground. The water line that runs to the garage is 35 ft and 18 inches underground (except for the 2 ft shown in the pictures below.

Before I ran my water lines, I did a test. I had several types of water line and insulation that were 1 ft long. I first weighed each piece. I put all of these in a 55 gallon barrel of water, I sealed the top of the barrel and put in 20 PSI of air. I let the test barrel sit for one week and then removed the test pieces and weighed each. Like some said in the posting on here; a few of the pieces of insulation test pipe were saturated with water. Some of the wrapped type bubble insulation were holding water between the wraps so I wouldn’t be to sure how well this insulation would work. The ThermoFlex had no water in the poly foam and weight the same as it was dry when installed. After doing my test, I went with the Thermo Flex or the (Polyethylene type foam)

When looking for an insulation I read this about the Poly Type Foam.

“Polyethylene is closed-cell foam, meaning its structure is made of millions of tiny bubbles, sealed off from each other. This provides a resistance to water, in addition to a strength and rigidity not present in open-cell foams. It is also resistant to solvents, petroleum products, and is antimicrobial as well, inhibiting the growth of mold, mildew, and bacteria. A resilient material, polyethylene returns to form after compression, while still yielding enough to provide cushion and security where it is needed. It is these characteristics, combined with its versatility and customization possibilities, which make it useful in so many applications.”

It was -3º F when I woke up this morning so I went out to take a picture of the underground water line going to my shop and garage. When I installed the OWB I didn’t want to dig under the shop slab make a hole in the floor so I ran the water line up from the ground, along the outside of the shop and through the wall. This line has been this way for several years now and I do not see any heat loss through the pipe. You can see how the ice is formed around the outside of the black pipe. This was frozen water from the melted snow from the roof. The second picture shows Frost on the outside of the pipe.
For some reason my pictures do now always work but I'll give it a try.

View attachment 340644 View attachment 340645
How much for the ThermoFlex Water Line? I need to redo mine. I get a low of snow melt which is not good.
 
I purchased my ThermoFlex Pipe around 5 years ago. You can not purchase this stuff at any BM. You need to be a plumber or a heating supply place. I got mine from a mom and pop shop who made and cold Corn Stoves around Glenco MN because she had the best price. I paid $8.25 per foot and free shipping at the time. I was thinking this would be shipped from their shop but it turned out this was shipped from the factory where it was made or "Blind Shipped" so there must be a nice mark up on this stuff if they can ship it for free.

Last year we ran new lines for a friend who had a 150 ft line snow melt like you have. We used ThermoFlex on his also. After seeing how well mine worked, we had his 18 to 24 inches below the surface and like his; we also ran a 6 inch dia of pvc down along the pex so we could test the soil temp after the trench was filled. Like my pictures in the other posting, there was no rise in temps on the outside of the pipes.

Everyone has their own idea on what works best or a cheaper way to do things. For some their idea works great but unless you can test the soil around the casing of the Pex or see the frost on the pipe like in my other posting, you really don’t know how much of a heat loss you really have because the water is at a constant flow.

The key is to keep the Pex dry and away from the cold soil. If it’s insulated well, you are home free and if it’s not, you’ll be cutting more wood and buying extra grass seed unless you what something like a 150 ft long by 18 inches wide green house during the winter months.

I would never tell people what to do, I only know what works well for me..



How much for the ThermoFlex Water Line? I need to redo mine. I get a low of snow melt which is not good.
 
When I measure my supply and return temps I see very different numbers when I change speeds on my 3 speed pump. I was loosing too much heat between house and boiler, so the dealer sold me a bigger 3 speed pump and now I'm not loosing nearly as much heat. Only a degree or 2 on high speed. I thought my pipe was going bad too.
 
I'm leaning toward doing a little more landscaping on the NE side of the house and putting the boiler between the house and shop. At least if I ever feel the need I can run a line to the shop. Kinda makes sense to put it there so it's closer to the wood stash. It also removes the need to find buried gas and electric lines that would be in the path of the hot water line to the house. Again, I'm going to lean heavily on advice from Doug since he knows the landscape of the yard and property and will be able to advise on easiest and best course of action.

I've also thought momentarily about putting the boiler close enough to the house to use the houses existing triple wall stack for better dispersion of smoke, ease of electrical access, and a really short run of insulated PEX into the house. However, the wife doesn't want it that close, insurance might not like that, and wood access would be more of a pain.

I'm just guessing here but did you all just use direct burial 12-2 to run the electric pumps?
 
I'm leaning toward doing a little more landscaping on the NE side of the house and putting the boiler between the house and shop. At least if I ever feel the need I can run a line to the shop. Kinda makes sense to put it there so it's closer to the wood stash. It also removes the need to find buried gas and electric lines that would be in the path of the hot water line to the house. Again, I'm going to lean heavily on advice from Doug since he knows the landscape of the yard and property and will be able to advise on easiest and best course of action.

I've also thought momentarily about putting the boiler close enough to the house to use the houses existing triple wall stack for better dispersion of smoke, ease of electrical access, and a really short run of insulated PEX into the house. However, the wife doesn't want it that close, insurance might not like that, and wood access would be more of a pain.

I'm just guessing here but did you all just use direct burial 12-2 to run the electric pumps?


I would not even consider using the Chimney on your house, recipe for disaster and fire. It will be filled with creosote in no time.


The pumps can be in your house if you chose to have them in a warm place incase you ever need to change them.

gg
 
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