Finally built me a wood rack, I hope it works. I have always stacked my wood on the ground. After seeing some here I thought I would try it. Do you guys think it will keep the wood dry? It has a plywood top. I know rain can blow in but I don't think it would be near as bad as not having a top. What do you guys think? Hopfully it will stay dry.
Just built a wood rack, let me know what you think.
- Thread starter creaid
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wdchuck
Addicted to ArboristSite
Nice.
One question, the uprights, are they nailed or screwed into the ends of the runners?
End grain has no fastener holding strength, the bottom blowing out may be just a matter of time. Adding some corner plates, even out of some plywood, would make all the difference, they would also help prevent racking. Some gussets in the top corners would help with that also.
Looks great otherwise.
One question, the uprights, are they nailed or screwed into the ends of the runners?
End grain has no fastener holding strength, the bottom blowing out may be just a matter of time. Adding some corner plates, even out of some plywood, would make all the difference, they would also help prevent racking. Some gussets in the top corners would help with that also.
Looks great otherwise.
douglas1,
The Top is the only piece pressure treated, I got the pallet from work. How long do you think it will last?
wdchuck,
The upright are nailed. Thanks for the advice, I will add be adding corner plates.
The Top is the only piece pressure treated, I got the pallet from work. How long do you think it will last?
wdchuck,
The upright are nailed. Thanks for the advice, I will add be adding corner plates.
cjcocn
Tree Freak
Those gussets will also keep it from going out of square as well and along with the screws will greatly strengthen your structure.
Do you think that the uprights will hold the weight of the stack without bowing outward? I built a similar one for our basement and put the 2x4s with the 2" side butting up against where the wood stacks.
Do you think that the uprights will hold the weight of the stack without bowing outward? I built a similar one for our basement and put the 2x4s with the 2" side butting up against where the wood stacks.
cjcocn
Tree Freak
Corner plates.
cjcocn
Tree Freak
I think it will keep enough rain out so that your wood does not get soggy, but at the same time is open enough to allow any subsequent sunlight (i.e. heat) to suck the moisture right back out.
I say it's a keeper!
iCreek
ArboristSite Guru
Yup, I would say its ready to go... The air should help dry out what does get wet, but your roof should protect from down pours etc. I really like it, been wanting to come up with a rack or a shed of some type myself, currently using some lumber tarps. Do you think it will move to your spot OK, not to much flex or movement? What size wood did you use, can you give us a quick list of size lumber etc. used? Good Job !!!
wdchuck
Addicted to ArboristSite
Gussets are angled support parts, when you have a vertical member connected to a horizontal member, the gusset is a fraction of the length of the first two, and installed inside so as to create a 45-45-90 triangle. The purpose of the gusset is to prevent racking; which makes a structure change from square to a parrallelagram.
Your pallet base will last for years, especially if you set about six patio blocks under the runners or half sink some bricks into the ground under the runners.
The uprights will bow very little once you have some gussets between them and the roof boards, and those would give you much greater benefit if they were rotated 90*, but since you don't have snow or ice to worry about, they should be just fine as they are.
Typical pallets are built with the least material to achieve the greatest strength, general principals are followed.
Your pallet base will last for years, especially if you set about six patio blocks under the runners or half sink some bricks into the ground under the runners.
The uprights will bow very little once you have some gussets between them and the roof boards, and those would give you much greater benefit if they were rotated 90*, but since you don't have snow or ice to worry about, they should be just fine as they are.
Typical pallets are built with the least material to achieve the greatest strength, general principals are followed.
The bottom was a pallet I got from work.
2 - 10' 2x4 / cut in half for uprights.
3 - 8' 2x4 / 2 to run the length at the top and 1 for supports at top (each end).
1 - sheet 1/2 plywood for top.
MATTYB11
ArboristSite Operative
Untreated wood in contact with the ground is the kiss of death. I just took up some pallets that were only on the ground for one year and they are already showing signs of rot. you may want to place the rack on top of some bricks or pressure treated scraps. Avoiding contact with the ground will keep the bottom of the pallet from soaking up water and allow it to dry out if it does get wet.
Sprig
Addicted to ArboristSite
At least a winter
Longer if ya slope that roof to about 10deg's, other than that a fine place to put wood I'd say, maybe see if you can scavenge a sheet or three of old metal roofing and tack it up on the windy side to keep da rain out.
Just a thought or two
Serge
Ken05
ArboristSite Member
Looks great. Now just add wheels and a hitch so you can pull it where it needs to be with that golf cart.
Vibes
Addicted to ArboristSite
Look for a scrap of rooled roofing material to cover that plywood and like someone else said, slope it a little. You can also get some plastic tarps and attach them to the sides in the rainy season.
wdchuck
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you slope it, not too much extra work, add or subtract from two of your uprights, then face the open side towards the south for greater sun power.
kellog
ArboristSite Operative
Nice rack.
I think the guys have given you a bunch of good ideas above to make it better.
The next rack you build you should turn the uprights 90 degrees and nail them to the sides of the bottom piece. This puts the fasteners in shear and will keep the uprights from bowing out due to the weight of the wood. Also either put the roof on a slight angle by making the uprights shorter on one side (as mentioned above) or put a patio block under one end. Pressure treated sure does last longer in ground contact but it is more expensive though.
Look at how I attached the uprights to mine in post #18 of the following thread
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=46554&page=2&highlight=wood+rack
Good job on the rack. It should serve you well if you use the few suggestions the guys have given you.
I think the guys have given you a bunch of good ideas above to make it better.
The next rack you build you should turn the uprights 90 degrees and nail them to the sides of the bottom piece. This puts the fasteners in shear and will keep the uprights from bowing out due to the weight of the wood. Also either put the roof on a slight angle by making the uprights shorter on one side (as mentioned above) or put a patio block under one end. Pressure treated sure does last longer in ground contact but it is more expensive though.
Look at how I attached the uprights to mine in post #18 of the following thread
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=46554&page=2&highlight=wood+rack
Good job on the rack. It should serve you well if you use the few suggestions the guys have given you.
Bowtie
Gearhead
I hope you dont have a termite problem from the wood on the ground. Been through that...not worth it. My wood racks all have a steel base in contact with the ground. 12" H-piling cutoffs from my bridge projects work nice.
