Killed My Trusty 029

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The 029 is a reasonably simple rebuild. If you rebuild it get a tube of the Dikko sealant and new crank seals. Put a piece of tape over the crankshaft key so as not to slice the new seal when you slide it over. Do not go nuts with the sealant just enough to cover the mating edge. If the oiler was weak replace it. A carb kit, carb gasket, fuel line and fuel filter would be a good idea as well. You should be able to do a nice rebuild for $200.00.

As far as to avoid the design, you got 10 years out of your saw. Sure there are better designs but is the extra expense justified. As you stated, it might have failed from operator error, expensive saws do that too.

If you can get the 039 kit instead of 029, do it.

Good luck.
 
ledlung said:
... The dealer pulled the exhaust and confirmed the piston and cylinder are fried. He said that between parts and labor costs it wouldn't be worth fixing. The cylinder/piston and other parts would cost about $200. The labor would add at least another hundred.
....
That is one of the downsides with homeowner categoty/plasic cased saws - they generally aren't worth rebuilding when something happens to the piston/cylinder.

Don't throw good money after bad - bite the bullet and buy a pro quality saw with magnesium, horisontally split, case. :blob2: :blob2:
 
Well.... The engine is completely alloy.. it's just secured by 5 bolts into the plastic case (4 engine pan, one bar stud). The case has nothing to do with air leaks etc.

The cost to fix a pro saw or the like of an 029 are similar. The most common reason given NOT to fix and 029 is that the new saw cost less.. so it's not "worth it". Hmmm... There is another way of restating this.

It does take about another hour of fiddling to replace the P&C on an 029 than say an MS360, but it's not all that bad (once you've done the first one!).

If you are going to fix this 029, get a service manual and a tube of Dirko - you'll need it to seal the engine crankcase pan.

Also, you can buy entire used 029 engines for $80-100 - much less messing around - just plug another in.
 
I knew I should have...

Andy1234 said:
Let's see if this works.

View attachment 40106

Andy

I knew I should have cleaned off the work bench before taking pics to post.;)
Depending on how bad the scoring on your original cylinder is you might be able to save and reuse if you clean the piston deposits off of it with some muriatic acid. Nasty stuff so be careful.
 
Looks like you a have two threads running on the same topic - see 33938..Here's what I just posted in the "other" thread..



>>>>>

Well.... The engine is completely alloy.. it's just secured by 5 bolts into the plastic case (4 engine pan, one bar stud). The case has nothing to do with air leaks etc.

The cost to fix a pro saw or the like of an 029 are similar. The most common reason given NOT to fix and 029 is that the new saw cost less.. so it's not "worth it". Hmmm... There is another way of restating this.

It does take about another hour of fiddling to replace the P&C on an 029 than say an MS360, but it's not all that bad (once you've done the first one!).

If you are going to fix this 029, get a service manual and a tube of Dirko - you'll need it to seal the engine crankcase pan.

Also, you can buy entire used 029 engines for $80-100 - much less messing around - just plug another in.


>>>>
 
I'd be interested in putting a 039/390 piston and cylinder on my 029. How big of a deal is it to do? I've never rebuilt a chain saw engine. I have rebuild many small block Chevy engines. Would I be able to use the carb on my 029 or would I need to get one for a 039/390?

Not trying to hi jack your thread ledlung, just had to ask! :cheers:
 
Lakeside53 said:
It's 3-4 hours if you've never done one before... You just need to change out one jet in your carb.
Thanks Lakeside53. Bailey's can get me a new 039/390 piston, ring and cylinder jug kit for $205.15. How much better does a 039 cut then a 029? I'd gain 1/2 a HP. Will the added displacement give it more usable torque? Thanks again!
 
It will work real well... But that price is the STIHL MSRP (actually a $1.50 higher then the SNW prices). Is Baileys selling you genuine Stihl parts mail order, or just marking up aftermarket parts to Stihl prices? At that price you may as wel go back to your dealer - they might give you a much better deal.

Before you buy the 039 parts, tear down your saw an make sure your crank is o.k. first.. last one I did trashed the big end bearing on the crank as well as the P&C. So I just spent $80 an dropped in a great used 029 motor (165lb compression).

Get youself a service manual BEFORE ripping it apart. I'm sure someone on AS will send you one...
 
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:pumpkin2: I agree with Lakeside, in fact I bought a used powerhead off of ebay for 85$ and fixed my 029 super in an afternoon,,,, all you have to be careful of is sealing the the intake boot and carb good... and making sure your hoses are supple and not cracked,,,,, while you have the carb off put a kit in it. for about 10 bucks also off of ebay, Change your fuel/filter line if it needs it and check the impulse hose while you have it all apart apart. like lakeside said the plastic case has nothing to do with the sealing of the short block The hardest part about removing the moto from the plastic is getting the rear bar stud out casuse that's what mainly holds it in @ the belly pan and if you booger it up they are about a buck @ the sthil dealer. for about or around 110$ you could be back in business...... :rock:
 
Lakeside53, I don't know if that was for Stihl or aftermarket parts! One other thing I should have mentioned is my saw runs perfectly fine. There is nothing wrong with it at all. I'm just kicking ideas a round right now. Thanks for all your help!
 
NYH1 said:
Lakeside53, I don't know if that was for Stihl or aftermarket parts! One other thing I should have mentioned is my saw runs perfectly fine. There is nothing wrong with it at all. I'm just kicking ideas a round right now. Thanks for all your help!


Got you confused with the guy that started the thread and toasted the saw.. If yours is fine, I wouldn't drop $200 into it. Sell it and buy a bigger saw!
 
OH yeah???

:cheers: I almost forgot, Be sure to be careful with your flywheel, dont drop it, and the key for it is built in the fly wheel be sure to steady it with your hand when you are pulling it cause if you sheer the key in the flywheel you will be looking on ebay for one of them, as Lakeside said get yourself a service manual it has many good & useful tips:notrolls2:
 
Lakeside53 said:
.... It does take about another hour of fiddling to replace the P&C on an 029 than say an MS360, but it's not all that bad (once you've done the first one!).
....
Remember West Texas' 029????? :laugh: :laugh:
 
SawTroll said:
Remember West Texas' 029????? :laugh: :laugh:


I do, but I bet he'd do the second one in about 10% of the time!!! ...and not break off the cyinder screws! sorry Tex... Troll's bringing back old memories!
 
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at the risk of piling on

I've owned a ms 290 for 3 years and have cut a fair amount of wood. If I had to do it over again, the baseline saw would've been a ms 390, no doubt about it. More power, same weight, and unless you are very serious about cutting ( clearing several acres) it should be enough saw. That's not to say the 361 or 441 aren't great alternatives, they're just kind of expensive for the casual cutter.

So I don't p*ss of the Husky folks (or Dolmar) they both make fine saws in the same price range. Funny, at 4 bills it's damn near impossible to buy a bad saw.

I'd chime in on the rebuild of the old saw, but it has been too well covered, and I agree it is worth rebuilding to have a spare.
 
omegajim said:
I've owned a ms 290 for 3 years and have cut a fair amount of wood. If I had to do it over again, the baseline saw would've been a ms 390, no doubt about it. More power, same weight, and unless you are very serious about cutting ( clearing several acres) it should be enough saw. That's not to say the 361 or 441 aren't great alternatives, they're just kind of expensive for the casual cutter.

So I don't p*ss of the Husky folks (or Dolmar) they both make fine saws in the same price range. Funny, at 4 bills it's damn near impossible to buy a bad saw.

I'd chime in on the rebuild of the old saw, but it has been too well covered, and I agree it is worth rebuilding to have a spare.

Thanks, all, for taking the time to offer advice. Now you can flame me for what I did today:
I went to Lowe's (to buy a sink) and took a stroll through the chainsaw area. In a box on the floor was a Husky Rancher with a bright yellow "clearance" label that said Original Price $369, Sale Price $258."
Now I know you can buy that saw and get a t-shirt and other stuff for $320 online. And I've read some bad reviews. Nevertheless ... I asked the sales guy what was wrong with it. He said something about a clogged gas line but said it was repaired and fully checked out. I got to wondering how the hell you clog a new saw's gas line, but let it go.
So I offered him $225. He said "OK," then came back two minutes later and said he was giving it to me for $220 and he'd throw in an extra chain when he got one (just come on back someday, he suggested).
So tomorrow I'll find out if the saw sucks as much as some reviewers say. It's returnable.
OK ... I'm ready. Have at me!:popcorn:
 
Lakeside53 said:
Got you confused with the guy that started the thread and toasted the saw.. If yours is fine, I wouldn't drop $200 into it. Sell it and buy a bigger saw!
That makes even more sense. Thanks for all the info though! :laugh:
 
ledlung said:
Thanks, all, for taking the time to offer advice. Now you can flame me for what I did today:
I went to Lowe's (to buy a sink) and took a stroll through the chainsaw area. In a box on the floor was a Husky Rancher with a bright yellow "clearance" label that said Original Price $369, Sale Price $258."
Now I know you can buy that saw and get a t-shirt and other stuff for $320 online. And I've read some bad reviews. Nevertheless ... I asked the sales guy what was wrong with it. He said something about a clogged gas line but said it was repaired and fully checked out. I got to wondering how the hell you clog a new saw's gas line, but let it go.
So I offered him $225. He said "OK," then came back two minutes later and said he was giving it to me for $220 and he'd throw in an extra chain when he got one (just come on back someday, he suggested).
So tomorrow I'll find out if the saw sucks as much as some reviewers say. It's returnable.
OK ... I'm ready. Have at me!:popcorn:
Now you will be known by your new name.( Dealer Killer ):bang:
So much advise given. Some by dealers that help out on this site and you stab them in the back:buttkick:
 
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