"loading" the saw and running in 346xp/5100s

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until I need new chain on my 5100 I might just get an 8T rim and run that with the 16" bar .325. The saw is new and I'm worried I will not break in the saw because it's mostly for 10" and under hardwood. All this talk of .325 not loading the dolmar 5100 makes me a little nervous. I want to get the most out of it. My 6401 with a 20" bar takes care of the bigger wood. And from what I have heard once you modify the dolmar chip deflector for 3/8 you can not go back to .325. I know this has been discussed but I'm worried about my new saw. Thanks,
 
All this talk of .325 not loading the dolmar 5100 makes me a little nervous.

So far that's all it's been is talk. In this thread I've asked people to explain why a .325 chain won't load a 5100s or 346xp properly for running the saw in.....no answers or explanation here or in any other thread where the comment has been made.
 
until I need new chain on my 5100 I might just get an 8T rim and run that with the 16" bar .325. The saw is new and I'm worried I will not break in the saw because it's mostly for 10" and under hardwood. All this talk of .325 not loading the dolmar 5100 makes me a little nervous. I want to get the most out of it. My 6401 with a 20" bar takes care of the bigger wood. And from what I have heard once you modify the dolmar chip deflector for 3/8 you can not go back to .325. I know this has been discussed but I'm worried about my new saw. Thanks,

Quit worring about your new saw it will brake in just fine the way it's set up.

Keep fresh mix in it and the filters clean the oil paths open and go cut wood your saw will last a long time all this talk is just Bullcrap period. You and your saw might be better off if you sold your computer. Then you can spend time cutting wood and not reading stupid peoples pipe dreams. I can gaurentee your saw will operate just fine if you follow the manufactures directions, in fact if your going to read anything your time would be better spent reading your saws manual then this garbage about loading your saw with a bigger chain..... I hope this helps, :)

:sucks:
 
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That about sums it up. Ed Richey

He asked if his chainsaw would break in with a .325 chain and it will.
A .325 chain will load down your saw. Dolmar, Husky, Or Stihl makes no difference.

remember the ms260, 5100s, and the 346xp all come with a .325 bar and chain.

ya, ya west coast ms260's don't.
 
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Now here's a thought for the day;


What makes your piston ring or rings expand ?

Rpm?

compression?

torque? or the load?
 
Now here's a thought for the day;


What makes your piston ring or rings expand ?

Rpm?

compression?

torque? or the load?

Its heat created by all the above together. Heat seats the rings, and the best way to seat the rings is heat followed by short periods of cooling and heat again.
 
Troll, it is not a hyperlink; just text underlined. If it is connected to anything it is somewhere in the cobwebs of my brain! Highest cylinder pressure will be under normal combustion pressure ~ 900 psi. or so. If you operate a saw lugged down you might get some higher pressure and likely more heat but I dont think it is recommended breakin procedure. Somewhere though I seem to remember seeing that it was important not to let a diesel engine idle for long periods after new rings and liners or they could glaze and delay seating but that is not on modern saws, yet I have seen that done. I find it kind of strange to see a chainsaw idling for an hour and working its way down into the dirt or snow till its getting picked up at the air intake. I just put them to work.:chainsaw:
 
Troll, it is not a hyperlink; just text underlined. If it is connected to anything it is somewhere in the cobwebs of my brain! Highest cylinder pressure will be under normal combustion pressure ~ 900 psi. or so. If you operate a saw lugged down you might get some higher pressure and likely more heat but I dont think it is recommended breakin procedure. Somewhere though I seem to remember seeing that it was important not to let a diesel engine idle for long periods after new rings and liners or they could glaze and delay seating but that is not on modern saws, yet I have seen that done. I find it kind of strange to see a chainsaw idling for an hour and working its way down into the dirt or snow till its getting picked up at the air intake. I just put them to work.:chainsaw:


OK - clear as glass - and I always trust you to know the real answers!

:)
 
here's and interesting write-up on breaking in 2 stroke motorcycle engines:
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
talks about lugging. pressure, and loading
"When the engine is operating, a force known as Break Mean Effective Pressure or B.M.E.P is generated within the combustion chamber. B.M.E.P. is the resultant force produced from the controlled burning of the fuel air mixture that the engine runs on. The higher the power setting the engine is running at, the higher the B.M.E.P. is and conversely as the power setting is lowered the B.M.E.P. becomes less.
B.M.E.P is an important part of the break in process. When the engine is running, B.M.E.P. is present in the cylinder behind the piston rings and it's force pushes the piston ring outward against the coarse honed cylinder wall. Piston rings are designed to take advantage of the pressure and us it to push the rings out against the cylinder wall. Therefore, as pressure builds during the compression stroke, the rings are pushed harder against the cylinder wall which aids in seating the rings."

"A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loading to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but make sure you don't lug or overheat the engine."
 
Wildbio, that article is probably directed toward steel or cast iron cylinder liners. If you read down in the article it refers to using very light loading initially and working up to increasing short periods of full throttle and full rpm. It also makes this statement that I have often seen referred to as complete old wives tale.

"Use high quality, low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight), no synthetics, too slippery. If synthetics are used during initial break in the rings are sure to glaze over."

I dont think I would use that article as being very definitive. The spelling mistakes in it mean nothing by themselves, but tell you that it was a pretty low cost production.
 
fair enough. yes I also saw the part about synthetics. I haven't had enough time to do the research......which is why I started this thread asking for the advice of experts here:)


Now from what you have learned can you safely say you can break a saw in by using .325 chain?

I have to finish the day light out cutting wood.

Bye
 
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Now from what you have learned can you safely say you can break a saw in by using .325 chain?

I always figured I could (and have been using .325 on my 346xp ne) and was just trying to get someone to justify the comment made in other threads. The responses support that yes .325 can be used to break in a saw. No evidence/explanation has been given to the contrary (which I suppose is why no one ever did explain when they made the comment in other threads).

Have I learned anything? No, not really...I'm just taking everyone's word for it.
 
well lets start off with the rings,most people think that the rings maintain a seal between the piston and the cylinder wall through the springs tension.

This is wrong.

Frank brought up the fact that Combustion pressure seals the rings
Which in fact he is right.

Now if that were the only time there would be no or very little compression,
for combustion.
 
well lets start off with the rings,most people think that the rings maintain a seal between the piston and the cylinder wall through the springs tension.

This is wrong.

Frank brought up the fact that Combustion pressure seals the rings
Which in fact he is right.

Now if that were the only time there would be no or very little compression,
for combustion.

sounds like bait to me....lol
 

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