Looking for a decent Chainsaw sharpener?

[CNYCountry]

I can't figure out why it would matter having all the cutters the same length. I've cut with chains where the left and right cutters were grossly different lengths and it didn't effect the cut at all.
As long as the rakers are appropriately sized I don't see how it could make a difference.
Tom.

And you're probably right. I'm probably way too picky. Only argument I have really is that when all the cutters are the same this type of raker gauge tool that I like works 100% right: https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/depth-gauge-and-flat-file-for-saw-chain,-includes-025"-drop-center-depth-gauge-tool-and-flat-file/p/27742

I've had numerous comments over the years from others who've used my saws about how well my chains cut so even if it's excessive I'm doing something right... Just thought I'd share my experience because I wasted money and time on lots of different things over the years and finally settled on the grinder.

 

[Philbert]

I can't figure out why it would matter having all the cutters the same length. I've cut with chains where the left and right cutters were grossly different lengths and it didn't effect the cut at all.
As long as the rakers are appropriately sized I don't see how it could make a difference.
Tom.

More efficient. Been discussed many times. I’ll try to find a link.

Philbert

 

[unknwn]

Many a saw chain are sold as "low vibration ", and if there'd be any solid reason for consistency throughout a chain's length/loop I would speculate that would be reason enough.

 

[Philbert]

I can't figure out why it would matter having all the cutters the same length. I've cut with chains where the left and right cutters were grossly different lengths and it didn't effect the cut at all.
As long as the rakers are appropriately sized I don't see how it could make a difference.

OK, many, many threads discussing this.

First, there are different perspectives on 'appropriate' depth gauge settings and methods: constant offset, constant angles, 'progressive', etc. If you have to adjust the height of the depth gauge an additional amount to compensate for an uneven cutter, there might be other tradeoffs or consequences.

Second, just because someone gets a chain to cut reasonably straight, that does not mean it is cutting as smooth or efficient as it can be. Oregon invented the chain we use about 75 years ago, and along with companies like STIHL, have spent millions of hours designing, engineering, testing, etc., using instrumented test fixtures, not just doing a demo out back of a saw shop. They all recommend uniform cutter lengths, angles, etc.

Of course, there are practical limitations to this, and I am not suggesting that folks pull out a micrometer each time they sharpen. But I frequently see hand filed chains where the cutters on one side are much shorter than the other, due to right or left handed filers being stronger on one side. And I frequently see chains where the top plate angles are different on each side; sometimes all over the place. So it is simpler and easier to take all of these cutters back to uniform lengths and angles with a chain grinder, than it is to try and de-code what is going on.



If an individual user does not mind the variation, and is satisfied with the way that the chain cuts, that is fine with me. But I think that it is often an indication of sharpening that is not as accurate or as precise as it should be for efficient cutting. If they are doing this intentionally, then there must be something else going on.

I have posted these illustrations many times, showing a cutter as it is filed / ground / worn back from use. If sequential cutters are different heights or widths, the chain is going to bounce around in the kerf, causing vibration, and some cutters will be doing more work that others, which is less efficient. You would never intentionally sharpen any other type of saw this way.


Philbert

 

[Mike Kunte]

OK, many, many threads discussing this.

First, there are different perspectives on 'appropriate' depth gauge settings and methods: constant offset, constant angles, 'progressive', etc. If you have to adjust the height of the depth gauge an additional amount to compensate for an uneven cutter, there might be other tradeoffs or consequences.

Second, just because someone gets a chain to cut reasonably straight, that does not mean it is cutting as smooth or efficient as it can be. Oregon invented the chain we use about 75 years ago, and along with companies like STIHL, have spent millions of hours designing, engineering, testing, etc., using instrumented test fixtures, not just doing a demo out back of a saw shop. They all recommend uniform cutter lengths, angles, etc.

Of course, there are practical limitations to this, and I am not suggesting that folks pull out a micrometer each time they sharpen. But I frequently see hand filed chains where the cutters on one side are much shorter than the other, due to right or left handed filers being stronger on one side. And I frequently see chains where the top plate angles are different on each side; sometimes all over the place. So it is simpler and easier to take all of these cutters back to uniform lengths and angles with a chain grinder, than it is to try and de-code what is going on.

View attachment 921914

If an individual user does not mind the variation, and is satisfied with the way that the chain cuts, that is fine with me. But I think that it is often an indication of sharpening that is not as accurate or as precise as it should be for efficient cutting. If they are doing this intentionally, then there must be something else going on.

I have posted these illustrations many times, showing a cutter as it is filed / ground / worn back from use. If sequential cutters are different heights or widths, the chain is going to bounce around in the kerf, causing vibration, and some cutters will be doing more work that others, which is less efficient. You would never intentionally sharpen any other type of saw this way.
View attachment 921917

Philbert

Hi, Phil!

That's an excellent illustration! What is your source, may I ask? Can it be downloaded? I'd love to add it to my collection.

Regards,

Mike

 

[Philbert]

Thanks.

I think that the side view illustration was from Oregon, and I made the top view to match? I wrote the text, and put it together, because the same question comes up again and again.

Philbert

 

[FordGT40]

I've hand filed for a lot of years but recently got a Granberg file-n-joint file guide. It works really well for me keeping the angle of the cutters consistent left to right. It's really easy to bring a chain back after it's hit rocks and you don't waste as much metal or risk burning it.
Very happy.

Ditto. I have separate ones for CS-400 and CS-600P so I don't have to change settings and have them handy and ready in each saw case. Quick to use. No vice or electricity needed.

Sent from my SM-A426U using Tapatalk

 

[K-techcowboy]

I'm honestly very new to this saw world while I've always loved using one only recently have I really gotten into the life because of my life I've been forced to collect a bunch of wood for the winter. That being said my first thoughts on a cheap easy sharpening system was a Chicago electric sharpener from hf. After really getting the setups down for each of my different saw chains it works great, if your not in the woods everyday like me. I now only use it if I chip a cutter or need to really take some material away on a chain otherwise I bought this 20 trilink file kit that includes the 3 most commonly used chain files, a file guide and raker gauge and its surprised me how well it works and its so convenient to walk out to the woods with everything you need to maintain a razor sharp chain and it be the size of the silverware in a napkin everyone will be using here soon.

 

[Philbert]

That being said my first thoughts on a cheap easy sharpening system was a Chicago electric sharpener from hf.

I spent a lot of time with these. If they work for you, then they are a good way to go. But not my first choice.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/hf-chain-grinder-thread.268303/
Philbert

 

[K-techcowboy]

I spent a lot of time with these. If they work for you, then they are a good way to go. But not my first choice.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/hf-chain-grinder-thread.268303/
Philbert

Yea its not mine either now. Heck I haven't touched it in a couple weeks. Just bein hand filing but I've seen and heard really good things about sthils 2 in 1 file sharpener. I just haven't forked out the dough on it yet

 

[jamesmcsparron]

Hi, I am looking for a decent chainsaw sharpener, I am a home owner with a lot of land, I use my saws often but not professionally. I do them by hand now but would like a electric one. I have no idea what I am looking for or at, Is there one that can do different blades easily? Thank you

If you're sharpening by hand, are your saws cutting well after sharpening? If they are, I'd advise you to continue hand sharpening. Sharping by grinding (electric) usually hardens the chain cutters, which means you'll have to use a grinder for the rest of the chains life. A sharpening file will be useless on a chain after it has become hardened and it'll feel like you're trying to sharpen glass. Also, you'll have to remove the chain from the saw and set it into a vice to sharpen it with an electric machine. As well as that, if you are out in the field, it's not going to be very convenient trying to have a machine sharpening process at hand.
...and 3/16 round files are cheaper and easier to carry through the woods.

 

[jamesmcsparron]

I run a few different size/ pitch chains, Most of my saws are in my signature.How do I determine what size file I should use and the pitch/Degree I should be filing at? I am using files and advice on angle I received years ago. My chains seem good and cut well but, The electric grinder would be for once in a while use on bad chains. I do run mostly Stihl chains.

A 3/16 round file will sharpen all handheld chainsaw chains regardless of size. An old lecturer from the ARB dept at Merristwood Horticulture College in Surrey told me that many years ago.

 

[K-techcowboy]

If you're sharpening by hand, are your saws cutting well after sharpening? If they are, I'd advise you to continue hand sharpening. Sharping by grinding (electric) usually hardens the chain cutters, which means you'll have to use a grinder for the rest of the chains life. A sharpening file will be useless on a chain after it has become hardened and it'll feel like you're trying to sharpen glass. Also, you'll have to remove the chain from the saw and set it into a vice to sharpen it with an electric machine. As well as that, if you are out in the field, it's not going to be very convenient trying to have a machine sharpening process at hand.
...and 3/16 round files are cheaper and easier to carry through the woods.

Yea i mentioned that in my first post bud and the grinder only hardens it if your cutting too much off in the first place. Once I learned the proper technique the grinder doesn't even contact the entire edge of the tooth. Thats how lite I touch it with a stone.

 

[K-techcowboy]

A 3/16 round file will sharpen all handheld chainsaw chains regardless of size. An old lecturer from the ARB dept at Merristwood Horticulture College in Surrey told me that many years ago.

Uh no that's tarded you teeth will either be too hooked or too straight. There's a reason there's different sizes. They wouldn't make them if you only needed one ever. Doesn't make since

 

[gcabinet1]

Hi, I am looking for a decent chainsaw sharpener, I am a home owner with a lot of land, I use my saws often but not professionally. I do them by hand now but would like a electric one. I have no idea what I am looking for or at, Is there one that can do different blades easily? Thank you

Stihl 2 in 1 easy file is the best I’ve used ,so easy to use $48.00

 

[jamesmcsparron]

Yea i mentioned that in my first post bud and the grinder only hardens it if your cutting too much off in the first place. Once I learned the proper technique the grinder doesn't even contact the entire edge of the tooth. Thats how lite I touch it with a stone.

Cheers K. Still though, if your hand sharpening has potential to become good, why would you bother setting up a grinder?

 

[gcabinet1]

Stihl 2 in 1 easy file is the best I’ve used ,so easy
$48.00 on Amazon. Can’t beat it!

 

[Philbert]

Sharping by grinding (electric) usually hardens the chain cutters, which means you'll have to use a grinder for the rest of the chains life

I can ruin a brand new chain with a file (to win a bet) if I use it wrong. Same thing with a grinder. Some guys never take the time to learn how to use a grinder properly, then spread all kinds of bad words about them.

Every saw chain that you have ever used was sharpened by an electric grinder at some point.

if your hand sharpening has potential to become good, why would you bother setting up a grinder?

Grinders are good for higher volume sharpening. They are especially good at ‘evening out’ or cleaning up chains that were poorly sharpened by hand.

Philbert

 

[user 122190]

Cheers K. Still though, if your hand sharpening has potential to become good, why would you bother setting up a grinder?

A valid point. In the 3 or more years since I sold my grinder, I have only once wished I had it back. I seriously hit a something big and metal in a tree and major f'up my chain. I should have just thrown it away, but took it on as a challenge. Hours and hours I spent on it, and I did get it fully recovered. I could have done the same with a grinder in a fraction of the time. My hand filing hours was not worth the $20 I saved.

 

[jamesmcsparron]

I can ruin a brand new chain with a file (to win a bet) if I use it wrong. Same thing with a grinder. Some guys never take the time to learn how to use a grinder properly, then spread all kinds of bad words about them.

Every saw chain that you have ever used was sharpened by an electric grinder at some point.


Grinders are good for higher volume sharpening. They are especially good at ‘evening out’ or cleaning up chains that were poorly sharpened by hand.

Philbert

Sharpening correctly with a file has more advantages compared to sharpening correctly with a grinder. Sharpening incorrectly with either is just a waste of time.
As far as chains that are factory sharpened pre sales, that operation is carried out using expensive industrial sharpening systems.