Maintaining Your Chainsaw--Tips Please

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Full skip means there's an extra drive link between cutters. It's mostly used on big wood, say over 24" as it can drag out more sawdust between cutters. That's not critical on small wood. Compare:
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/saw-chains/rm/
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/saw-chains/rsf/

Square chisel is fast, but sharpening it is at the graduate studies level. You need different files and grinders, both of which are (very) expensive. Note how the cutter has square instead of rounded edges. Click on the single link on the right for an enlarged view.
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/saw-chains/rslk/

Here's a tutorial on sharpening square-chisel chain if you want to jump into the deep end.
http://************************/forums/threads/square-filing-chains.5670/

You're probably best off with the RS3 chain it came with or RM3. They will get the job done and they are anti-kickback chains. A 60 CC saw is a bit big for a beginner. Be Careful, it will run you instead of you running it if you give it a chance.
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/saw-chains/rsc3/
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/saw-chains/rmc3/

As far as 2 cycle oil goes, the major saw manufactures are not selling snake oil because they don't want a bucket full of warranty claims. Simple.

The Husqvarna roller guide is simple, cheap and it works. Just be sure you get the right size for your chain.
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/accesso...g-equipment/combination-file-guide/505243501/
 
Our part of Georgia (50 miles S of Atlanta) got missed for the most part. We got some thunderstorms yesterday evening and a bit of snow during the night (a very little bit) but mostly strong winds. Took down some trees here and there but no widespread damage in this area. It was bitter out today with 30mph winds and cold temps. That wood furnace is cranking!
 
Keep the chain sharp.

Keep the saw clean.

Avoid fuel issues:

- Buy high octane gas without any ethanol in it.

- Drain the fuel, and run it dry if it will not be used within a few days.

- Get rid of any mixed or unmixed gas 30 days from the pump.

Philbert
 
Avoid fuel issues:
- Buy high octane gas without any ethanol in it.
- Drain the fuel, and run it dry if it will not be used within a few days.
- Get rid of any mixed or unmixed gas 30 days from the pump.
These are all good recommendations and doing these will minimize the possibility of fuel issues but they are not always practical for some of us. For instance, I cannot buy ethanol-free gas anywhere within a 3 hour drive and I won't pay $32/gal for the canned quarts. As for getting rid of any mixed fuel after 30 days, I don't do that and never have had an issue. As a matter of fact, I routinely have used mixed fuel 9 months after mixing it and never have had to rebuild a carb. My saws tend to sit on a shelf for 9 months between cutting seasons and I do not empty their tanks either. I am not advocating this approach but did want to point out that the sky will not necessarily come crashing down if you cannot follow these suggestions to a tee.

I will say that every time I fill my saws, I first shake the fuel can for 15 seconds or so to eliminate any settling or separation that may have occured. I also use only the best Husqvarna 2 cycle oil and mix at at 40:1 ratio (I knew this would turn into an oil thread!).
 
I clean mine after every use. I use compressed air to clean the bar and powerhead. Then I wipe down with old towel or cloth. Also I don't throw my saws around such as in the bed of the truck, or drop from waist height like some people I have seen. I have a 361 that I bought over 5 years ago, and it still looks almost new. I have cut a ton of wood with it, but that's the difference between taking care of your stuff, or just tossing it around. It also helps in the resale aspect if you ever want to sell it!!!
 
ethanol will absorb moisture, which is why ppl recommend running it empty if it is going to sit for a while. and because of its ability to absorb moisture it will dry out rubber seals and what not within the saw. although it may not cause damage in every case, I choose not to use it in small engines.

another tip... keep the chain outta the dirt.
 
Learn to sharpen a chain properly and keep it sharp. I recommend a Granberg filing guide. Read your chips and how the saw cuts to know when to touch up the cutters. Get a depth guage tool and keep them knocked down to 25-30thou. Flip your bar every few sharpenings to allow even wear and extend it's lifespan. Knock down any burrs that develop with a flat file.

Keep the saw relatively clean. Focus on the clutch cover, cylinder fins and air filter/air box. Clean out the bar rail occasionally.

Keep fresh mix on hand and discard fuel that is over 2-3 months old...I dump it into the car so it doesn't go to waste. I don't bother to empty and run dry my OPE but I make sure they are run at least once a month to circulate fuel through the carb and lines. Startron and/or Seafoam in the fuel will help with ethanol issues.

Learn to properly tune a saw. I believe your MS311 has limited ignition and limiters on the adjustment so you will not be able to tune it as easily as other saws. Deleting the limiters for proper mixture is a good idea but will void your warranty. At least make sure the H setting is turned all the way out to the limiter. You may need to dial it back a bit in warm weather.
 

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