Makita 6401

[Poleman]

No problem at all....I know my details and explanations are scetch at the least.
That BB should be a lot better than what you describe....a lot better!! They are torque monsters and should run good and with a lot more power.

 

[Paragon Builder]

No problem at all....I know my details and explanations are scetch at the least.
That BB should be a lot better than what you describe....a lot better!! They are torque monsters and should run good and with a lot more power.

Rich, do you know why the ported saw likes more timing?
And if I were to "upgrade" my 6400, do you recommend the BB? I know in some saws they are worse than the stock jugs??

 

[Andyshine77]

Rich, do you know why the ported saw likes more timing?
And if I were to "upgrade" my 6400, do you recommend the BB? I know in some saws they are worse than the stock jugs??

The BB kits don't make more power than the OEM top ends. On top of that you now have a lower quality top end. Stick with OEM.

Most saws like more timing, wether or not the saws ported.

 

[Paragon Builder]

The BB kits don't make more power than the OEM top ends. On top of that you now have a lower quality top end. Stick with OEM.

Most saws like more timing, wether or not the saws ported.

That's what I've read. Never used one. I didn't know if the dolmar was different.
Yeah I was curious why Rich feels ported needs more timing?

 

[Poleman]

Not sure why the ported saws like more timing.....throttle responce was slow and saw was doggy compared to 33 degrees, I adjusted it to after initial 30 degrees I use on stock saws. This was with an unlimited coil installed.

As far as the BB, I wouldn't say they make more power just more off idle torque. The transfers might be why as they are smaller I think due to a bigger 2mm bore. They run ok, and have more power than a 6400 fore sure. I just like the bottom end power as the 7900 seems week down low. I think for the money they are ok. If you want a ported saw stay OEM tho.

 

[Paragon Builder]

And how did the stock saw like the 33 degrees?

 

[Poleman]

I stopped at 30 because it ran really good there. I had started at 25 degrees and worked up to 30 where it ran the best. I didn't try any further than 30 on the stock saw.
When I do it to a ported saw I started at 30 and the saw was slow throttle and doggy. I jumped it to 33 and it really came alive. I didn't go any further on it either because I felt there would be little benifit by going more., it ran the way I wanted it too so stopped.

 

[Paragon Builder]

I stopped at 30 because it ran really good there. I had started at 25 degrees and worked up to 30 where it ran the best. I didn't try any further than 30 on the stock saw.
When I do it to a ported saw I started at 30 and the saw was slow throttle and doggy. I jumped it to 33 and it really came alive. I didn't go any further on it either because I felt there would be little benifit by going more., it ran the way I wanted it too so stopped.

Cool! That makes sense.

 

[heyduke]

No problem at all....I know my details and explanations are scetch at the least.
That BB should be a lot better than what you describe....a lot better!! They are torque monsters and should run good and with a lot more power.

rich-

i took the stock coil and flywheel off the 6401 this morning to see how the husqvarna coil would fit. what i found was that the high voltage connector, where the spark plug wire connects to the module, was really tight to the case. is this the reason you enlarged the module mounting slots, to move the module down and make clearance for the spark plug wire? after looking under the hood on the 6401, your photos made a lot more sense. thanks for the help.

 

[Poleman]

No I actually enlarged the holes so I could get the coil to adjust to the flywheel for the air gap. Yes it's very tight....I just make sure it's not grounding on something or you will have no spark.....don't ask me how I know...lol. On Makita I super glue a small washer to the mounting post to lift the coil a hair which helps then on top to make sure it's secure. As you've noticed the spark plug wire is also very tight. It all comes togather with patience and wiggling. I don't even take the spark plug wire out just unscrew it from the original coil and screw it in when it's ready to fit everything. I will put the fly wheel on to be able to set air gap and make sure you can get it close enough. Once you get that done it's tim ye to grind the key off the fw. You should have your crank, fw and case marked before this. Once you grind the key off put crank at TDC ae bdcnd place the fly wheel on at the 30 degree bdc mark on the case. Tap fw and tighten down good. Recheck marks...if there good resemble and start and see how it is. At 30 you should be spot on....if saw is flat and boggy you can advance it some more also if it starts hard, but I find 30 degrees works for me.
I do take starter off one more time when right and make reference market so all you have to do is line up market in case you ever need to take apart....makes it easier.

 

[Poleman]

No I actually enlarged the holes so I could get the coil to adjust to the flywheel for the air gap. Yes it's very tight....I just make sure it's not grounding on something or you will have no spark.....don't ask me how I know...lol. On Makita I super glue a small washer to the mounting post to lift the coil a hair which helps then on top to make sure it's secure. As you've noticed the spark plug wire is also very tight. It all comes togather with patience and wiggling. I don't even take the spark plug wire out just unscrew it from the original coil and screw it in when it's ready to fit everything. I will put the fly wheel on to be able to set air gap and make sure you can get it close enough. Once you get that done it's tim ye to grind the key off the fw. You should have your crank, fw and case marked before this. Once you grind the key off put crank at t

 

[heyduke]

No I actually enlarged the holes so I could get the coil to adjust to the flywheel for the air gap. Yes it's very tight....I just make sure it's not grounding on something or you will have no spark.....don't ask me how I know...lol. On Makita I super glue a small washer to the mounting post to lift the coil a hair which helps then on top to make sure it's secure. As you've noticed the spark plug wire is also very tight. It all comes togather with patience and wiggling. I don't even take the spark plug wire out just unscrew it from the original coil and screw it in when it's ready to fit everything. I will put the fly wheel on to be able to set air gap and make sure you can get it close enough. Once you get that done it's tim ye to grind the key off the fw. You should have your crank, fw and case marked before this. Once you grind the key off put crank at t

chris-

thanks, i may need to find a module that fits better, like the one in your photograph. i should have photoed my initial work yesterday. my module is maybe 1/4" longer and i don't know if i'll be able to rout the spark plug wire to it. i thought i might be able to route the wire above the flywheel, outside the shroud, like huskqvarna does it, but i don't think there's enough room there either. i'll try to get some fotos today.

 

[Poleman]

You must be using a OEM Husky module?? I use the Farmer Tech ones from Hutzl. It is tight.

 

[heyduke]

You must be using a OEM Husky module?? I use the Farmer Tech ones from Hutzl. It is tight.

thanks chris-

i purchased this coil from weedeaterman. it's aftermarket. i think it would fit well in a 272. when i bought an aftermarket module for my 575 it wouldn't fit at all. it was like me trying to put on size 32 jeans. but it did fit into my husky 385. the 385's coil was a good fit in the 575 so with a little swapping everything turned out ok, but the point is the outside dimensions of the aftermarket modules seems to be as sloppy as chinese squish...

i'm going down to my shop now to pull the makita module and flywheel again and see if there is any way i can route that wire under the module. i'll take some fotos too.

 

[heyduke]

thanks chris-

i purchased this coil from weedeaterman. it's aftermarket. i think it would fit well in a 272. when i bought an aftermarket module for my 575 it wouldn't fit at all. it was like me trying to put on size 32 jeans. but it did fit into my husky 385. the 385's coil was a good fit in the 575 so with a little swapping everything turned out ok, but the point is the outside dimensions of the aftermarket modules seems to be as sloppy as chinese squish...

i'm going down to my shop now to pull the makita module and flywheel again and see if there is any way i can route that wire under the module. i'll take some fotos too.

You must be using a OEM Husky module?? I use the Farmer Tech ones from Hutzl. It is tight.

chris-

spent some time this morning trying to fit the after market husqvarna ignition module into the makita 6401.

here's the stock set up:


here's the husqvarna module mounted with the spark plug wire running under the module in the channel provided:

you can see how tight the fit is. the wire here is a new one that came with the module. things were looking good to me. however, when i tried to mount the flywheel, i didn't have enough clearance and i'm not confident that even if i enlarged the mounting slots that i could move the module back far enough. there just isn't enough room in the cavity provided. the module needs to go on a diet. another problem, the spark plug wire is at least 1.5 inches too short. so if i want to proceed with this i will need to find some skinny spark plug wire. i tried pulling some more thru the case but there just isn't more than 1/4 inch available. i understand now why you recommended using washers for shims under mounts. it moves the module up and gives it a little more clearance. i'm thinking i might be able to do some very careful trimming around the edges of the epoxy and get a better "angle of the dangle" too.

anyway, i put it back together in stock form. for some reason it's running better than before. maybe the sparkplug wire wasn't screwed in deep enough. it started and ran well on the first pull. never did that before.

 

[Poleman]

It look about right for fit...it is tight like I said.
The reason I leave the original spark plug wire in place is exactly what I ran into. It was to short besides the original was already threaded through. I just unscrewed it off the coil and after fittin coil I screwed it back on and tryed to run it the best I could in the gap under and behind the coil to the top. It can be done!! Then tighten the coil and test fit the fly wheel to set air gap then put the coil in its place.

 

[heyduke]

It look about right for fit...it is tight like I said.
The reason I leave the original spark plug wire in place is exactly what I ran into. It was to short besides the original was already threaded through. I just unscrewed it off the coil and after fittin coil I screwed it back on and tryed to run it the best I could in the gap under and behind the coil to the top. It can be done!! Then tighten the coil and test fit the fly wheel to set air gap then put the coil in its place.

unfortunately there just isn't enough wire to reach the husky module. when i get time, i'll try to order some 5mm spark plug wire. i'll likely have to remove the handle/fuel tank to get to the harness which includes the shut off switch too. i must admit the the dolmar is way ahead of stihl and husqvarna in design and production quality. stihl control levers are a long running, bad joke. husky runs the grounding wire in a location where it will eventually find a way to the cooling fins. in both cases way too many hombres have to shut off their saws with the choke. dolmar, on the other hand, casts a secure conduit in the magnesium.

 

[Poleman]

Yep...the engineer a good saw!!! And we've all used the chock to stop them Stihls and Huskys....at least I have.
Can't you just use the original spark plug wire??? I just unscrew the ones I've done and don't pull the wire....looked like a big pain because of how it's routed.
Just get everything fitted then install the original wire and tighten down. No need to pull it and change it if you dont have too.

 

[heyduke]

Yep...the engineer a good saw!!! And we've all used the chock to stop them Stihls and Huskys....at least I have.
Can't you just use the original spark plug wire??? I just unscrew the ones I've done and don't pull the wire....looked like a big pain because of how it's routed.
Just get everything fitted then install the original wire and tighten down. No need to pull it and change it if you dont have too.

chris-

i tried everythin i could but there just wasn't enough wire. i tried different routing but no luck. i need an inch an a half but only can find 1/4". good news is, after taking of the ignition module and unscrewing th spark plug wire, cleaning and putting it all back together again, its running good.

 

[timq585]

UPDATE ON SAW,
Took the saw back to the dealer this morning. After talking with him, he assured me he checked the fuel line and impulse line before returning to me. I put a spark tester on it after I couldn't get it to start, it did have spark, BUT as stated earlier it still may not be enough or strong enough. The dealer believes it may be a bad coil. I will update when the saw is returned from the dealer.