Makita DPC-7311 concrete saw worth a p/c and top shroud

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Brandon owenby

Pugsley
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Hey guys I picked up a makita concrete saw for $5 bucks but it needs a piston and cylinder along with a top shroud apart from that it's in decent shape, it has a pretty new diamond cut "14 blade and is pretty well all there. Is it worth sinking around a $100 in and be able to get anything out of it when I go to sell it. Not sure of how much used ones even go for. If anyone has any knowledge on this please let me know.
 
They are good saws if you use premium fuel, and don't use bargain 2-stroke oil.

You might PM me with a pic of what type of top you have, I may have what you need. I picked up a 55 gallon barrel of ex-rental saws from Home Depot a couple years ago.

The main shortcomings, and or common issues:
Small-ish air filter,
No good filtering aftermarket air filters.
They only have one piston ring.
easy to lean out,
The wrist pins are prone to being tight and causing piston scuffing/scoring (also associated with oil mix quality and overheating).
Impulse hose cracks/splits.
Intake boots splits along bottom common.
Seen quite a few crank bearings loose on the crank, (slide off by hand).
Base gasket leaks along the transfers, cured by Yamabond 4, and with a gasket delete.

The best carbs are the bump up (fast idle) carbs. The no HS adjustment screw carbs are best, and these are usually on a RH deco saw.
That may help......
 
Wow you really know what your talking about. I checked out the p/c. The nikasil looked as if it cracked off a good bit (of course the piston and ring was shot) and as you had mentioned someone must have ran it with a El cheapo air filter because the crankcase had a good bit of concrete dust in it.IMG_20180702_140653020.jpg IMG_20180702_140752415.jpg IMG_20180702_140803807.jpg IMG_20180702_140705787.jpg IMG_20180702_140645547.jpg here are a few shots of what I'm dealing with. Let me know what you think if you don't mind.
 
That thing looks like it may need crank bearings as well, unless you can flush out the corrosion and foreign matter.
I fill the crankcase 1/3 the way and rotate the crank by pushing up and down on the rod for about 10 seconds. Then dump it upside down on a paper towel or your nearest enemy.
You may have to flush several times, and blow it out between flushes.
See if it smooths out with no roughness.
If you need to replaced the bearings, they are 6202 c-3 rated garden variety auto parts store bearings.
Also check for radial play in the crank bearings. (up/down play). Needs to be zero play.
 
I only step in to suggest ebay for C3s. Brand preferred is up to you. Good luck BO with your build, that sucker looks filthy
 
I’m curious as to the differences between the 7311’s & 7301’s.. I have 2 7301’s that I’ve torn down and ordered a bunch of parts from e-replacement.com, 1 with bad bearings and the other I believe had low compression but still ran before I put it back on the shelf years ago..

The part order seemed to be on back-order for over 2 weeks with no end in sight so I just cancelled as I had too many other things going on.

If parts are compatible, I may be able to help but I’d assume they’d have different jugs?
 
I’m curious as to the differences between the 7311’s & 7301’s.. I have 2 7301’s that I’ve torn down and ordered a bunch of parts from e-replacement.com, 1 with bad bearings and the other I believe had low compression but still ran before I put it back on the shelf years ago..

The part order seemed to be on back-order for over 2 weeks with no end in sight so I just cancelled as I had too many other things going on.

If parts are compatible, I may be able to help but I’d assume they’d have different jugs?

I know this is an old thread, wondering if you still have any parts for the 7301?
Thanks.
 
Not trying to hijack the thread but I just fixed up a Stihl ts 350 and want to use the cut off saw to cut tree roots.Does any one know what would be a good blade to use.I use old semi chisel chains but one or two cuts and your done.Thanks
Kash
 
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