Mall Model 7 Crank bearings

[bullseye13]

So, as a result of the antique saw CAD, i have been finding some two man saws lately. I recently picked up 2 Mall 7's, and a 6 in one day. One 7 is locked up, the other is real real nice....surprisingly nice. Only problem is, there was a squeak when i turned it over. Another thing that stuck out was the silicone sealant under the cylinder and around where the crankcase splits. The bearing closest to the flywheel failed, (you can see the worn area on the right of the existing two bearings), and spun on the crank.:bang:

The crank is around .007 under where it is supposed to be. What would everyone recommend? The monster bearing sandwiched in the middle is not in very good condition either, however it is has not spun on the crank.

One more thing: My goal this weekend is to get a video of my Mall 6 with the 3' bar cutting a sycamore tree. I will post it!

Oh, and this new toy is certainly handy.

 

[67L36Driver]

Bearing got any numbers on it? Mfgr's. name?

Cross the numbers at an industrial supply house and/or look up based on the size and configuration (single row, double row, snap ring, seal(s), shield(s), etc.). OD, ID and Width will likely be in millimeters. Inch size bearings, despite the common belief, are rare.

With a new bearing in your hand take crank and bearing to a machine shop that can spray metalize. Warning! Can be very expensive.

Good luck.
Carl

 

[Bill G]

............... Inch size bearings, despite the common belief, are rare............Good luck.
Carl

In 1950 when the saw was built the bearings were sized by standard inch measurements. It is true today that they are easier to find in a diametric conversion to a metric size but that is not the way they were sized OEM.

Bill

 

[67L36Driver]

For Display running.

Another way you can 'fix' your crank bearing fit is to prick punch the low spot in several places so that the displaced metal will snug up your bearing.

Not reccommended for anything that has to really 'work' much or for very long.