McCulloch Chain Saws

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I hardly think so Ron. You are a good looking guy or at least your wife thinks so.

Here is an aerial of the wood lot from the kid's drone. You can see Ron cutting and also how busy it is on a Saturday. Everyone has got to watch what they are doing. 3 skid steers running, trucks in and out loading and unloading wood plus several cutting and several splitting. It can get hectic from time to time.



Brian
 
Ron,I didn't mean any disrespect in any way to either you or your mechanic friend.You're probably right about the plug being undersized.I'm finding out that as more & more things are being outsourced to other countries,somehow their specs & our specs don't match up.
Case in point,I just bought a rebuild kit for a carb for my John Deere 140 lawn tractor.I should've known better when I bought the kit that I'd have problems.Sure enough,the seat was too big & the kit was missing the washer for the seat too.The needle wasn't the same either.I ended up buying a genuine OEM Kohler rebuild kit & everything was there & it fit properly.The cheapo kit that I originally bought was made in Taiwan.The OEM Kohler kit was made right here in the U.S.A.
I'm glad that the new plug fit in your saw properly.I was thinking that there might be a possibility that the threads were getting stripped in your cylinder's plug hole.That would not be a good situation.
Ed
 
Ed, no problem. You taught me something new as I didn't know that the threads of plugs have been metric since long before I was born but the hex heads are English. The mechanic could have been referring to the fit of the hex in his socket. Being the skeptic that I am, I googled it and came across machinists discussing plug sizes and taps. It seems that taps are standard metric sizes but plugs are undersized. No explanation given, but I bet it has to do with heat and dissimilar metals. Anyway, I was really moaning when I saw it wouldn't tighten and relieved somewhat when the different plug did. Ron
 
No doubt the Time Serts are the Cadillac of plug hole repair but these Save a Thread ones are much more economical, are solid inserts rathan the typical Helicoil spring type inserts and they lock in place quite well. The short insert is likely the one that's the most common for small engines.

Just in case anyone is looking for a more economical permanent repair approach that works well.

save a thread.jpg
 
Brian,where did you get that measuring device?What I've always done to get every last drop of oil in the mix was to put a little gas in the oil bottle & shake it briskly & then dump it in the funnel that's sitting in the fuel mix jug.I only mix up one gal.at a time so as to have fairly fresh fuel on hand at all times.In the winter when I'm not cutting,sometimes I only mix 1/2 gal.
Just curious guys,are there any trees left in NE Tenesee?Lol
Ed
 
It's on it's way Ron,supposerd to come in overnight (up my way anyhow).Not relly looking forward to another arctic blast,after all,this is March.Spring arrives in 16 more days.
Ed
 
The 1-86 is ready for test cuts. Made a new fuel tank gasket, cleaned the manual oiler and got that working, fixed the leak in the carb and I have it bench tuned fairly well for what I can tell.
I think there may be either a problem with the clutch or i dont have it tuned quite right yet as i cant seem to get it to idle low enough to not pull the chain.
 
The 1-86 is ready for test cuts. Made a new fuel tank gasket, cleaned the manual oiler and got that working, fixed the leak in the carb and I have it bench tuned fairly well for what I can tell.
I think there may be either a problem with the clutch or i dont have it tuned quite right yet as i cant seem to get it to idle low enough to not pull the chain.

Does that have a wet clutch? Just grabbing at straws but if it does and the ol is really thick due to cold temps......
 
Does that have a wet clutch? Just grabbing at straws but if it does and the ol is really thick due to cold temps......
It does, but the saw was in my basement where its 80 degrees until I took it out to start it and tune it.
 
It does, but the saw was in my basement where its 80 degrees until I took it out to start it and tune it.
My geardrives tend to spin the chain at idle, its easily stopped if you put in against wood, its just the hydrodynamic drag of the oil in between the clutch shoes and drum I figure. Personally for the couple times a year I run them, as long as they idle down nicely, it doesn't bother me. They really aren't much fun to drag around in the woods anyway.
 
My geardrives tend to spin the chain at idle, its easily stopped if you put in against wood, its just the hydrodynamic drag of the oil in between the clutch shoes and drum I figure. Personally for the couple times a year I run them, as long as they idle down nicely, it doesn't bother me. They really aren't much fun to drag around in the woods anyway.
I kind of figured as much. I also noticed that the clutch drum uses a bushing instead of a needle bearing and I'm running a sprocket nose bar, so less drag there than a hardnose would have.
 
I've been working on my 380A for the last month or so & still haven't got any sdpark.I put a new condenser on it & set the points at .018.The next step was to test the coil.I did that today & got an absolute zero on the primary & the secondary is all over the place.I talked with Bob Johnson about it & he seems to think that the primary is stuck open.He told me to send my coil to him & he'd put it on his Graham machine & test it for me.A new coil for that beast is $49.
 

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