McCulloch Chain Saws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Fyi this is how all the 10-10 54ccs saw should run. I do have a dome top filter 10-10A that I chipped and uni-filter, I think it might be stronger.


I gotta admit MS, you definitely have a way with finding these cool scores. Well done! :)

I do have an odd question though. Have you done/tried porting any of the 10-10 saws you’ve come by or do you leave them stock?

The same question goes for the other guys on here too.
 
Well it's kinda like this , I defer to the experts. I have heard of people who port these saws but I'm not seeing any amazing results on any videos.
I've noticed that whenever someone has ported one of these saws the bucking spikes never touch wood? The reason I love the 10-10 is that they have GRUNT or torque, nothing irritates me more than bogging down in a reasonable peice of wood.
If someone could post a video of a 10-10 pivoting on the spikes at higher rpms I might be tempted, but I'm not wiling to trade the stump pulling torque of that little saw for piss revving performance.
Bellhopper did an S which ran pretty good but I think he understands the importance of torque and is pretty conservative in the grinding.
I'll often watch saw videos without the sound because I'm not distracted by the sound and get a better perspective of how the saw is going through the cut.
 
Clint those hit and runs are where most my firewood comes from. People have tree companies come in and remove trees near house or powerlines, drop them, limb them and leave them. Guess most of the tree companies don't want to deal with them. You'd think k they'd discount the job and take the trees and resell them, but they never do.

To me its the best cause the stem is already on the ground and don't have to deal with branches. I burn 4-5 cord a year for heat and split it all by hand and chunk up what isn't easy to split. I'm not a gym kinda guy so I find it therapeutic and a nice workout.
Being fourth generation in the tree business, and having a MD Tree Experts License, (retired and license lapsed), I can tell you most big tree companies "HATE FIREWOOD". Time is money, If a customers says, oh that's expensive, can you do better? Sure, we'll put it on the ground, clean up the brush, and leave the log. Put an add on CL and within a year or two, some scrounger will come get it for free. We charged $85 per man hour for non dangerous work. Throw in a dead, rotten tree, over a house and the price sky rockets. Cranes, price sky rockets. We sold all of our firewood logs to a farmers market.. I've always enjoyed working with fire wood. 50 years ago, I asked my Dad if we could get a processer. He said we made a lot of money doing TREE WORK. We made next to nothing on firewood. Why spend a $100,000 to set up an operation that might break even. If he was going to spend $100,000 he would buy a new chipper truck, chipper, and put on another crew, and make MORE money.

Clint, no disrespect, I see you as a home owner wood scrounger. Look at it from a business point. Why would you discount a job, to do all of the hard time consuming work. If I can get a job to put several big trees on the ground for $2,000, chip, rake and leave, done. Or, do all of the same work, then bring in a $125,000 knuckle boom, with a 3 man crew, spend several more hours, fix dents in the yard, seed, leave, for a discounted price, and I'm not even done yet! I still have to take the logs back to my yard, unload them, and then spend more money to process them. Buy dump trucks to deliver, etc, etc. Over in the firewood forum when people ask "how do I get free wood", the first response is, contact your local tree service. The tree service doesn't give away all that free wood so they can make less money. They do it so they can get back to the work where they really make money. Firewood processors that do nothing else make money, some that kiln dry and bag it, make a lot of money. But, the average tree service that has year round work, will give away or wholesale out all the wood they can. Our yard was 5 acres, and we had a hard time keeping it clean, and we were a small 1-3 crew company. Just think of the big companies based in town, where an acre of ground can sell in the millions. Bottom line, making as much money as I can, spending as little as I can to do it, is the name of the game.

edit, I think I was actually responding to mogulmashers post, not clints.
 
250 Super? I hope to be back to my "old saw" hot spot in the next couple days. I have a 250. I saw a 250 on one of his shelves. I'll probably get it, because it's complete, and he charges me $20 per saw.

My question, how do you tell a Super? I looked on Acres site and he lists a 250, late 250, and 2 Supers. They use the same stock picture for three of the versions, and I can't see Super on any of them?
 
yeah rarefish, fully understand the tree service aspect, I hear ya. it's similar around here (I'm not in the biz, just observant). There are so many trees around here, and lots of free firewood on craigslist and such (especially from in-town where no one has room to store lots of firewood or big logs). And if folks don't have a wood burner, they just want it off their property. It was the same way in GA, it is easy to scrounge firewood especially because Atlanta is full of really old growth trees, people always need to get rid of it and the suburbs are ripe with it too (although there's a lot of pine around). And in a place like Atlanta, there's not a lot of wood burners around...........
 
Kid, the clutch as jethro mentioned is a taper fit only. It is not threaded on. Left hand starters its a left hand nut hokding it on. Lefty tighty, righty loosy. If its a right hand start saw then the nut holding it on will be normal. Lefty loosy, righty tighty. Also to mention a right hand starter will have a key in the shaft holding that clutch.
As mentioned dont cokd chisel that clutch itll break the center spider. They arent good to hit. Hold the sawup by the clutch and drum and smack the end of that shaft with a hammer leaving the nut on so you dont mushroom the threads. Nut just starting off the threads. Be patient and itll come off with no damage. Holding ut suspended by the clutch drum will allow the weight of tbe saw to help it fall off.
 
I have heard of people who port these saws but I'm not seeing any amazing results on any videos.
I've noticed that whenever someone has ported one of these saws the bucking spikes never touch wood? The reason I love the 10-10 is that they have GRUNT or torque, nothing irritates me more than bogging down in a reasonable peice of wood.

If someone could post a video of a 10-10 pivoting on the spikes at higher rpms I might be tempted, but I'm not wiling to trade the stump pulling torque of that little saw for piss revving performance.
I'll often watch saw videos without the sound because I'm not distracted by the sound and get a better perspective of how the saw is going through the cut.

I'm guessing you've seen the "Hack 10" thing too?
 
I'm guessing you've seen the "Hack 10" thing too?
Yeah I have , and most of other YouTube wizards. I like the hack 10 video as an experiment but it's a really poorly thought process, no carb rebuild?
Anyway I am always suspicious when someone reinvents the wheel and makes claims it's in the secert sauce, or they are preaching life styles of something.
When I want to know how to get better results from a saw I ask guys on here and read the manual. The one really glaring example that stands out is when I finished my first 3400 Poulan, honestly kind of disappointing with performance, but after I searched the forums most people swore by the muffler mod and they were right . That one simple mod made a huge difference.
A good solid rebuild and a sharp chain will work wonders most of the time .
 
250 Super? I hope to be back to my "old saw" hot spot in the next couple days. I have a 250. I saw a 250 on one of his shelves. I'll probably get it, because it's complete, and he charges me $20 per saw.

My question, how do you tell a Super? I looked on Acres site and he lists a 250, late 250, and 2 Supers. They use the same stock picture for three of the versions, and I can't see Super on any of them?
This is my 250 Super with my PM700. Not the best pic, but all i have on my phone... I'm not 100% on all differences, but i believe the holes in the side of the air box lid & it actually says "Super 250" are a dead giveaway visually.250 Super.jpg
 
This is my 250 Super with my PM700. Not the best pic, but all i have on my phone... I'm not 100% on all differences, but i believe the holes in the side of the air box lid & it actually says "Super 250" are a dead giveaway visually.

Supers also came with full wrap handles and auto oilers. That said, a full wrap handle isn't a sure way to know, someone could easily swap them. Pull the gas tank front cover and look for an oiler - or if it runs already, see if it pumps oil without using the manual pump.

Hold the sawup by the clutch and drum and smack the end of that shaft with a hammer leaving the nut on so you dont mushroom the threads. Nut just starting off the threads. Be patient and itll come off with no damage. Holding ut suspended by the clutch drum will allow the weight of tbe saw to help it fall off.

I've done this more than a few times, and eventually they (usually) pop off. I've got a hammer with a hard nylon head I use so I don't risk deforming things. However, I've taken to using a two arm puller lately. Calm down... I don't pull them off with it. I use it to preload/tension the mag/clutch drum, and then smack it with the hammer. They almost always pop off on the first hit vs having to fight with them. Also, on the mag, try to get the claws on the thicker parts of the mag.

Had a Super XL that I must have fought with for half an hour trying the hold and hit method. I thought that thing had managed to fuse itself to the crank. I ended up having to wedge screwdrivers between the case and the mag and then hit it, and even then it took some effort before letting go. Have not had this issue since using the puller, and it's a "kinder" and MUCH more precise method than wedging big screwdrivers in there.

Also, as Vinny said, leave the nut on. Not only does it keep you from marring the end of the crank, it keeps the mag/clutch from flying off when it does pop loose. Regarding putting the the clutch spider back on; use a torque wrench if you can. I called Bob Johnson looking for a spider one day (evilbay saw, it came broken) and he laughed and said "didn't use a torque wrench, did ya?" Ever since then, I have. :)
 
Kid, the clutch as jethro mentioned is a taper fit only. It is not threaded on. Left hand starters
Supers also came with full wrap handles and auto oilers. That said, a full wrap handle isn't a sure way to know, someone could easily swap them. Pull the gas tank front cover and look for an oiler - or if it runs already, see if it pumps oil without using the manual pump.



I've done this more than a few times, and eventually they (usually) pop off. I've got a hammer with a hard nylon head I use so I don't risk deforming things. However, I've taken to using a two arm puller lately. Calm down... I don't pull them off with it. I use it to preload/tension the mag/clutch drum, and then smack it with the hammer. They almost always pop off on the first hit vs having to fight with them. Also, on the mag, try to get the claws on the thicker parts of the mag.

Had a Super XL that I must have fought with for half an hour trying the hold and hit method. I thought that thing had managed to fuse itself to the crank. I ended up having to wedge screwdrivers between the case and the mag and then hit it, and even then it took some effort before letting go. Have not had this issue since using the puller, and it's a "kinder" and MUCH more precise method than wedging big screwdrivers in there.

Also, as Vinny said, leave the nut on. Not only does it keep you from marring the end of the crank, it keeps the mag/clutch from flying off when it does pop loose. Regarding putting the the clutch spider back on; use a torque wrench if you can. I called Bob Johnson looking for a spider one day (evilbay saw, it came broken) and he laughed and said "didn't use a torque wrench, did ya?" Ever since then, I have. :)

Don't hurt me but I use a gutless old cordless rattle gun let it go click click a couple times and done haven't broken 1 or had 1 come loose yet.

I would advise never to do this until you know your tool and realise the dodgy dodgyness of doing it lol.

Another disclaimer....

Its my birthday I've had a beverage or several and I'm confessing my sins:)
 
Don't hurt me but I use a gutless old cordless rattle gun let it go click click a couple times and done haven't broken 1 or had 1 come loose yet.

I would advise never to do this until you know your tool and realise the dodgy dodgyness of doing it lol.

Another disclaimer....

Its my birthday I've had a beverage or several and I'm confessing my sins:)
Happy birthday buddy!!!
I hope that package i sent arrives just in time...that would be ironic..lol
 
Back
Top