McCulloch Chain Saws

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Labor Day weekend is the Cedar Valley Engine Club event about 50 miles north of my home. I was invited by Ron Olson (met Ron at the Iowa GTG last spring) to come this year and bring a few saws which I was happy to oblige.

The club has a few saw on permanent display (hanging from the ceiling or wall), Ron brought a nice selection of his Homelites and a Mono that he's restored, I brought mostly McCulloch saws and the other GTG models...KMS4 and Solo twin as well as the BP-1 and the Poulan 54 I recently got cleaned up. We ran a few this afternoon and will run a few more tomorrow just for good measure.

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I may even try to strike an arc with the welder tomorrow if we can find a scrap of steel to work with.

We share space in a building with a 3,300 In3 three cylinder two stroke Fairbanks-Morse crude oil diesel engine.

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Mark
 
This thread seems quiet lately, how about some carnage?
You guys may remember my project "Scrap heap" SP81........ well it didn't even make one tank of fuel and blew up, pulled it apart tonight to see what failed.
I am going to blame the Lil Red Barn piston. The wrist pin bearing backed out of the piston and dropped its needles causing all hell to brake loose. The piston was new and came with a parts lot I purchased, the bearings where NOS. I had heard of problems with the LRB pistons but figured I'd give it a try since I had it, now my otherwise perfect cylinder is toast. Oh well, it was an experiment anyway.
Also, this is the first saw that I have actually had blow up lol.
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@Jethro 2t sniffer
 
Would be good to measure one up and see what went wrong there. Perhaps use some good bearing retaining compound before using one if the measurements look ok.

I tried asking Lil Red Barn some pretty simple questions. I didn't even get a reply, but I also never followed up.
 
LRB is terrible when you have a problem with their merchandise.Seems like customer support is non-existent.As I remember,XL-130 (a member here) had a helluva time getting a refund for a guide bar he bought that was supposed to fit & it didn't fit.I bought a bar & chain combo a few yrs.back for an Olympik saw & it wasn't the same combo that was advertised.Other than that the only other thing I bought from LRB was an electronic ignition module for several XL-12s & SXLs,& they've held up very well.The "Homelite" piston that I acquired was advertised on Feebay as an OEM Homelite piston,when I got it I found it was a LRB piston kit that was missing the circlips.Since the seller was in Canada it wasn't worth my while to return it.I think I paid $27.Lesson learned!
What worries me now is LRB has had someone start making aftermarket cylinders for some saws (mostly Homelites I believe).If the "quality" of their cylinders is as bad as their pistons then they'll end up taking more saws out of circulation than what their project was designed to do - keeping older saws running.
 
The insulating sleeve on my 5-10’s spark plug wire is ratty, and doesn’t cover the entire length that passes between the cylinder fins. I suppose the wire could be routed around the back like the newer saws, but I quite like it this way.
What do you guys use on these older 10 series saws?
 
The insulating sleeve on my 5-10’s spark plug wire is ratty, and doesn’t cover the entire length that passes between the cylinder fins. I suppose the wire could be routed around the back like the newer saws, but I quite like it this way.
What do you guys use on these older 10 series saws?
I buy the proline kit for a Stihl 041 (I think). Just see if your wire is 5 or 7mm and get the corresponding wire/boot kit.
 
@Woodslasher, would that be a new spark plug wire & boot combo? The actual wire and it’s insulation is fine for now, I’m referring to the sort of sheath (appears to be some sort of fabric) covering only the part that runs between the cylinder fins.
It’s #4 in the figure below from the 10 series workshop manual. Appears this was not necessarily installed, because the manual states that it’s to be installed in case absent.

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@Woodslasher, would that be a new spark plug wire & boot combo? The actual wire and it’s insulation is fine for now, I’m referring to the sort of sheath (appears to be some sort of fabric) covering only the part that runs between the cylinder fins.
It’s #4 in the figure below from the 10 series workshop manual. Appears this was not necessarily installed, because the manual states that it’s to be installed in case absent.

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Ah, okay. I'd see if your Stihl dealer can hook you up with that stuff, I've seen that on pretty much every Stihl coil I've come across. edit: p/n 1122 442 0400 will get you 4 inches of plug wire insulation. IDK what pricing is, but I'd trust Stihl stuff more than rando internet stuff. The cheap insulation on my a/m 461 coil has worn through in maybe a tanks worth of cutting.
 
Not too many hot rods or auto parts stores on the island of Sardenga I would guess...

I know I have a few models with the wire tucked into the cooling fins inside of the shroud without any kind of insulation. I don't run those saws a lot but the wires were always in good condition as I recall.

Mark
 

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