dumb question. I haven't used a timing light in about 40 years and never on a chainsaw. I assume you need to connect the timing light to a 12v battery to do the drill above.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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when I pull the starter all the way out the rope measures 29 1/2" from the fan housing to the bottom of the handle.
what diameter pull cord for this saw? or does it matter? I see it in 1/8, 5/32 and 3/16".
You were right about this. I did a bad job setting the gap the 1st time. when I checked it this morning it was too large. I re-set the point gap using a .018 feeler gauge and the bite is gone. starts easily now. I thought the decomp was broken but it is working fine. thanks to all who responded with suggestions. I cut a few discs of dry white oak with it this morning. the auto oiler really puts out some oil. way more than my Stihls. the manual oiler is working well also, and I didn't do any work on either. my lucky day. the only control that wasn't working was the fast idle trigger lock and all I had to do was turn in the little screw and it works now. I am looking over my shoulder on this one. I usually have to do everything twice.
There are no dumb questions. We all came out with zero knowledge ! Constant learning from there til the day we die.
You were right about this. I did a bad job setting the gap the 1st time. when I checked it this morning it was too large. I re-set the point gap using a .018 feeler gauge and the bite is gone. starts easily now. I thought the decomp was broken but it is working fine. thanks to all who responded with suggestions. I cut a few discs of dry white oak with it this morning. the auto oiler really puts out some oil. way more than my Stihls. the manual oiler is working well also, and I didn't do any work on either. my lucky day. the only control that wasn't working was the fast idle trigger lock and all I had to do was turn in the little screw and it works now. I am looking over my shoulder on this one. I usually have to do everything twice.
It's funny but theres a fine line with the timing, some of my 10-10s were a little lazy so I used every bit of slop to get any advance I could. Really helped with the throttle response.
I couldn't feel any slop in the flywheel. in fact, it is difficult to get the shaft key deep enough into the slot to get the flywheel on. no burrs on it either.
A question for Mark and whoever else wanted to chime in.....
If you were getting the itch to play with a gear drive and had a 1-41 and a 1-61, other than CC would you pick one over the other and why?
Will be a while yet as I'm getting firewood saws ready for the fall rush, but it has been on my mind.
If you were getting the itch to play with a gear drive and had a 1-41 and a 1-61, other than CC would you pick one over the other and why?
Will be a while yet as I'm getting firewood saws ready for the fall rush, but it has been on my mind.
Not to be sarcastic, but since only the 1-61 is a gear drive I'd pick that one.
No offense taken sir. I haven't looked closely and I am not familiar with them. Someone dropped them off and I stuck them in the shed. So I've seen each one for about ten seconds! Was super busy at the time with day to day saws and didn't have the time for " collection " saws. Thanks for straightening me out!
The 1-61 it is!
The 1-61 it is!
I recently picked up a Pro Mac 850 Electronic Ignition. I got it to run, but wouldn't switch off. Fast forward, as I was cleaning it the "Ground strap" fell out.
Where is it supposed to connect to the saw?
Thanks,
Mad3400
Where is it supposed to connect to the saw?
Thanks,
Mad3400
I had the same question myself earlier. Maintenance supervisor's photo above shows it (kinda).
j-jock
ArboristSite Operative
I had a different issue yesterday. I had purchased a non running 10-10 Automatic that had no spark. One of the first things I test, is the kill switch, and in this case it was grounded out in the run and off position. I disconnected the kill wire at the coil, and with a little cleaning, I now have an easy starting, good running saw. (I don't have a problem shutting a saw down by pulling the choke, so I will probably leave it like it is. )
If you change your mind, they are a pretty simple mechanism to fix. 1 wire and just a bent tang of metal that grounds out to the handle.
j-jock
ArboristSite Operative
I was not sure on how I could take the switch apart and did attempt to disassemble it, but stopped because I didn't want to damage it.
I want to get my newly purchased 1-41 running. It has excellent compression, but no spark, and I need to pull the flywheel to get at the points and condenser. The flywheel has resisted normal removal methods, si I am going to have to either use a three tang puller or hit the crank harder. To use method 2, I am going to have to weld a nut, which is the same diameter and pitch as the flywheel nut, to a short shaft, so I can hit the crank hard enough to loosen it without causing other problems.
I assumed you tried max pressure then a heat gun on the flywheel?? Got some might stubborn ones off like that.
j-jock
ArboristSite Operative
Damn! I was thinking of using my heat gun, but had to leave the project to take care of other issues. She, who must be obeyed, wanted me to do some real work.
I had never tried using the heat gun for that job, but it works so well at splitting and assembling chainsaw cases, I would expect it to work well for this job.
I will give that a try in the next few days. Once I have the 1-41 running, I am going to start on one of my prize saws, my D45.
Bob
So a couple weeks ago it became clear the shop addition needed to be bigger due the sheer amount of inventory I purchased from Bob Johnson. So this morning the excavator called and said he would be here to do the extended work this afternoon. There was a wild cherry tree that needed removed due to the added length. I thought it fitting to use the PM 850 with the US chrome jug and all NOS parts in the engine that came from Bob a few years back to take her down. Thats a 28" bar for reference. I guess 22" on stump. I took a 7-8 foot log for bucking test cuts on. Stay yellow friends, the journey continues.
Fellas i have a question. The choke button on the large mac saws that are next to the handle. These choke buttons must be held in by the operator when starting them. Has anyone come up with a way to hold that button to free up your hand? Any ideas are welcome. This is on the right side of the handle on this model. Ive got this set up on a 55 gear drive but lots of other saws have this set up. Such as 790,795,797,etc etc. Looking for ideas to hold the choke button down to free up a hand. Thanks in afvance. Vinny
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With the right hand start saws, it's easier if the saw is resting on a log, then hold the rear handle with your left hand while pushing the button down.
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