McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Welcome friend!! Someone probably will come along shortly who knows the answer, but if not I'll be glad to remove one tonight and check for you!Hello!
I'm a huge but new gan of mcculloch chainsaws from hungary
I had a luck to buy a mcculloch 6-10
Do you know the type of the recoil crews? Are this 10-24 pitch srews?
Thanks a lot!
Ohh thanks a lot!
I have some missing bolts and nuts.
I found that the bar nuts are 5/16 24 tpi. But I have not found the recoil bolts
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That starter recoil cover and screen is really cool looking on your 6-10
You should've been an engineer Vinny! Great job!
Thanks...im only allowed to drive the train around the christmas tree though. 
gyula - The screws attaching the starter cover to the flywheel housing, and the screws attaching the flywheel housing to the saw are a mix of 10-24 (#10 screw, 24 TPI) and 8-32 (#8 screw, 32 TPI). The "oval head" screws, the ones securing the starter cover to the flywheel housing are 1-1/8" long, the three holding the flywheel housing to the saw are an odd length, maybe 2-1/4"...
The 10-24 screws are 1/2" long, pan head type screws.
Your saw is very unique, and may not be all original.
The 6-10 model was a right hand start saw
Your saw clearly has a left hand starter, and a type of starter housing not commonly found on any McCulloch models.
This is a conventional left hand starter arrangement.
I have only seen a few saws with the type of starter housing you have, mostly on export models. I think they were most commonly found in Japan but obviously there were some in Europe as well. I have one (10-10) that I found on eBay. I have never seen one with the perforated metal like your saw has. Please show us a photo or two from the clutch side of the saw as well, I am interested in seeing what type of clutch cover is has.
Mark
The 10-24 screws are 1/2" long, pan head type screws.
Your saw is very unique, and may not be all original.
The 6-10 model was a right hand start saw
Your saw clearly has a left hand starter, and a type of starter housing not commonly found on any McCulloch models.
This is a conventional left hand starter arrangement.
I have only seen a few saws with the type of starter housing you have, mostly on export models. I think they were most commonly found in Japan but obviously there were some in Europe as well. I have one (10-10) that I found on eBay. I have never seen one with the perforated metal like your saw has. Please show us a photo or two from the clutch side of the saw as well, I am interested in seeing what type of clutch cover is has.
Mark
You may also wish to look for service manuals, illustrated parts lists etc here:Hello!
I'm a huge but new gan of mcculloch chainsaws from hungary
I had a luck to buy a mcculloch 6-10
Do you know the type of the recoil crews? Are this 10-24 pitch srews?
Thanks a lot!
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/the-beg-for-manuals-thread.68615/page-1821
Looks like there are a few folks out there that can, literally, break an anvil...
Mark! Thank you for the informations! I will try these bolts!
Yes, it is may not original, but i think it is awesome looking saw. A looked a lot online, before i bougt it. I found 1 or 2 mc10-10 with this recoil arrengement.
I live in eastern europe, so anything could happen
Tommorow I will add more photos.
From the unique decompresion valve which is activated by the on-off swith together with fast idle I think it is a 6-10 but i am not totally conviced
Interesting....
Very neat stuff there Max. The 32/35/38cc saws were put together with a lot of the 518 LocTite.
Mark
Mark
I don't know if I should post here,or on the Mini Mac sticky with this one,but here goes.Mark,you put a PM310 together for me last yr.& I never really got a chance to use it.The recoil locked up on me,so I set it aside till today.I pulled the recoil off & found it needed to be retensioned.I put it back on & it came undone again.So,I pulled the recoil off a 2.3 & put that on & it's working great now.I fired up the saw & it turned into a mosquito fogger.The chain is getting lots of oil on it,so I don't know why it's smoking so much.
I put the recoil that was on the 310 onto the 2.3 & it's working just fine on that saw.I thought the 2.3 had low compression,but that's not the case.It doesn't have any spark.I really don't like working on the 300 series saws,everything is so compact.
I put the recoil that was on the 310 onto the 2.3 & it's working just fine on that saw.I thought the 2.3 had low compression,but that's not the case.It doesn't have any spark.I really don't like working on the 300 series saws,everything is so compact.
Sometimes bar oil can seep through the pulse pump when a saw is setting for a while. Let it run for a minute or two and it should clear up. I have a few that I need to store with the oil tank mostly empty to prevent this. If it doesn't clear up, you will need to change the o-ring at the least, more likely you'll need to change the pulse pump.
These came in yesterday, I'll get them put up in the museum building shortly.
Mark
These came in yesterday, I'll get them put up in the museum building shortly.
Mark
As I mentioned earlier i made more photos about my neat little 6-10
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That is in great condition. Put a short bar and sharp chain on that and hang on! Great lightweight saws. I have an 18" bar that runs .325 pitch chain. Its a great saw to operate.
You can see that the clutch could be fit with the rivets and starter pawls for the right hand starter, the clutch is probably equipped with a keyway and uses right hand threads on the crankshaft (speculation on my part). I have an early 7-10 that also used the DSP valve and has that same type of smaller clutch cover.
This one is also interesting due to the three piece screen on the starter side. This was fairly common on the early 7-10 models. By the way, I do have 3D printed
screens for those three piece units.
There were two common problems with the keyed clutch, too loose and the key would wobble and chip out around the keyway...
Too tight and the clutch spider would break. I have learned a few things about swapping parts on those clutches...
You have to pay careful attention to the threads on the crankshaft when you go to remove the clutch since both LH and RH threaded crankshafts were used.
Mark
This one is also interesting due to the three piece screen on the starter side. This was fairly common on the early 7-10 models. By the way, I do have 3D printed
screens for those three piece units.
There were two common problems with the keyed clutch, too loose and the key would wobble and chip out around the keyway...
Too tight and the clutch spider would break. I have learned a few things about swapping parts on those clutches...
You have to pay careful attention to the threads on the crankshaft when you go to remove the clutch since both LH and RH threaded crankshafts were used.
Mark
I let the saw run for somewhere between 1 & 2 minuters & it didn't clear up.My guess is it'll need a new pump & O ring.I believe I have both here,but if not they'll be going on my upcoming order..BTW,I didn't have my knuckle replacement last week,I tested positive for Covid & now they've postponed the surgery date to 4/28.
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