They also catch fire.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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I wil say that it is a more secure electronic connection ( there is a reason why they use them on drag cars). But you have to strip back at least a 1/2" of insulation to fold the wire behind the terminal end, so reusing the old lead may not be an option.
Bonus excitement.
I could NEVER get the dinky boot back on the coil wire with the spring on it.I ended up replacing the entire wire on a couple of coils that had the boot already connected.Replacing the wire was a feat in itself which usually involved some JB Weld to rebuild the damaged well for the wire.
Today was saw repair day after yesterday's break downs.On the Super 10-10 I thought it was a clutch issue,but it turned out to be a bar tip issue on a brand new Mac bar that I bought last yr.Actually I bought 2 or 3 Mac 16 in.bars last yr.& another bar was even worse.They're stamped 3/8 pitch,.050 gauge,& D176 mouint.On the other bar the chain won't even fit in the sprocket at all.My guess is someone at the factory put .325 pitch tips on the bars.I'll have to sere about getting the tips replaced in order for the bars to be useable.
As for the Timber Bear with no spark,I spliced the wire (I don't like doing that) & got spark back,but the saw will only sputter.I had the same problem last yr.on my original TB when the recoil screws backed out & sheared off.That was an ugly mess where 2 of the screws broke off in the oil tank (I ended up getting a new oil tank for it) & one of the sheared screws remnants got lodged in between the coil & FW.That ruined the coil,it would only sputter after that.Fortunately I had a spare coil on hand at the time.I'll tear into the saw when I have more time.
As for the Timber Bear with no spark,I spliced the wire (I don't like doing that) & got spark back,but the saw will only sputter.I had the same problem last yr.on my original TB when the recoil screws backed out & sheared off.That was an ugly mess where 2 of the screws broke off in the oil tank (I ended up getting a new oil tank for it) & one of the sheared screws remnants got lodged in between the coil & FW.That ruined the coil,it would only sputter after that.Fortunately I had a spare coil on hand at the time.I'll tear into the saw when I have more time.
It's actually an m/c. 
I think im gonna have to build a 101 saw some day. As much as i like messing with these things. I think itd be fun. Looks like a good fit on the 740.
Seems so, so far. Nothing's getting cheaper, I know that much!
056kid,
Looks like you have a square shaft instead of tapered shaft. Maybe not a problem, but I thought I would throw that out there so those who know can respond.
Ron
Looks like you have a square shaft instead of tapered shaft. Maybe not a problem, but I thought I would throw that out there so those who know can respond.
Ron
You are correct. It looked like this last evening. I was planning to use a free sp? Cp? Sp125s?, a free 123cc antivibe McC that I got years ago & have had in storage for almost as long, but I remembered that I had a 740 with miserable compression, so I started messing around last evening. Need a spare head cover or "hood" to customize into fitting nicely. I would like to hold on to the original stuff. A tapered crank with life left in it shouldn't be too difficult to conjure. Same for the hood. But taking it apart before hearing it roar to life isn't happening! I need to figure out what my best stock location carb choice is, also. Start there at least. Some of the McC kart enthusiasts around have shared some awesome custom setups! I'd like to follow suit at some point. Need to find some darned wood to cut!
Bit of tape fixes all manI've just been bucking firewood and my trigger finger kept getting shocked if it got too close to the spark plug.
That and I've now got 610-arm.
I had my 700 catch fire. Was rather exciting. Water doesn't put out gas to well. I learned small gas leaks need to be sorted
Makes your fingers gooey.
j-jock
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks, I've never been around any gear drive saws, and don't know much about them.
They are a slower driven chain due to gear reduction. But typically can run larger chain due to gain in torque. Also they can handle longer bard easier. The big drawback is weight of the gear box. The g70 i started with came with a big bow bar and 1/2" pitch chain.
What's the weight like compared to a bigger saw that runs a 32? I run a 32 on the 82s. Wouldn't say its fast but still when thinking about it 32 buried is a fair old bite of wood. Skip Would be better but it's hard to find here and damn near impossible in 050.
82cc gear drive??
What will an 82 pull with skip? I've seen 36s on 850s n thought mmmm probably pushing it a bit far but then skip... Would an 82cc gear drive pull a 42?? I'm guessing no problem.
At what point do ya just grab a bigger saw
Dang I need a 125
Jethro,right now a 125 is pretty much worth it's weight in gold.I got lucky when I bought my 125 about 5 yrs.ago for $375.Of course it needed some parts & some work,but it's one helluva saw now.The other thing about the 125s are the parts - almost impossible to find anything,& if ya do find the parts you'll pay dearly.
I've got 2 saws that needed some attention & I got to them today.The first one was my PM700 that needed a couple screws in the recoil.I found the 2 short screws that go into the recoil up front by the oil cap & on the rear where it screws into that special stud that holds the coil on.The 3rd screw was missing on the recoil cover.I didn't have one of those,so I was just going to "borrow" one from another recoil.I couldn't get that screw to go into the recoil if my life depended on it.I ended up taking the recoil cover off & found that the screw had broken off in the housing.How can I get that broken screw piece out?
The other saw was a PM610 that had an issue with the oiler push button - it wouldn't pop back out after being pushed in to oil.It had to be pulled back out manually.I decided to pull the oil rod out & have a look at it.I had a brand new oil rod right next to it & saw that the new rod was about 1/2 -3/4 in.longer.I put the new oil rod in & it works perfectly now.I also noticed that the oil rod clip was missing a couple days ago & I thought that might've been the problem.Apparently someone must've broken the oil rod button & replaced the oil rod with one from a different model saw (perhaps a 10 series?).
The other saw was a PM610 that had an issue with the oiler push button - it wouldn't pop back out after being pushed in to oil.It had to be pulled back out manually.I decided to pull the oil rod out & have a look at it.I had a brand new oil rod right next to it & saw that the new rod was about 1/2 -3/4 in.longer.I put the new oil rod in & it works perfectly now.I also noticed that the oil rod clip was missing a couple days ago & I thought that might've been the problem.Apparently someone must've broken the oil rod button & replaced the oil rod with one from a different model saw (perhaps a 10 series?).
Exactly why I haven't chased 1 up. 1 came up for sale here. 3grand nz 1800usd.
My 395xp is really as big as I'll ever need
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