McCulloch Chain Saws

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Ron those starters are easy to service. Take the three cover screws out and rotate the cover clockwise until the tension on the rope is gone. Remove the cover and starter screen and clean out all the crap. Use a 5/16" socket or nut driver to remove the screw in the center of the pulley. Work the pulley off, being careful to NOT pull the spring from the housing. A thin screwdriver behind the pulley will help hold the spring in place. Once the pulley is off, clean it and clean around the spring.

DON'T pull the spring out unless you want to be really thorough. If you DO pull out the spring, you can wind it back into the housing, working from the outside in. Check to see that the ratchet (center axle thing that is turned by the pulley and engages the pawls on the flywheel) turns freely. If you remove the flywheel cover you can pull the ratchet out and clean/oil the bushings.

Inspect the spring. Make sure the outside end is seated in its notch in the flywheel cover. Also check to see that the inner hooked end (that engages the pulley) is there. If your rope isn't retracting it could be that you have a broken spring, or one that's slipping from the pulley notch. Repair or replace the spring if needed.

If you have to replace the rope, you'll need to cut it to length (41" IIRC), melt the ends, and install the anchor pin in it. This pin will be in the end of the old rope, where it's seated in the pulley. You can make a new pin with a finishing nail cut to length if needed. I hold the nail in pliers, heat it with a torch or lighter, push it through the rope (about 1/8" or so from the end), let it cool a tad, push it all the way though until the head sits on the rope, and then cut the excess off (to match the length of the old pin). The rope pulls through the hole in the pulley and the pin seats against it. This is all in the 10-series WSM.

Reassembly is mostly the reverse of disassembly. You reinstall the pulley, making sure the spring engages the notch (and then install/tighten the mounting screw), put the starter screen back on, then wind the rope around the pulley (counter clockwise) until it's all on (the starter cover will now be against the housing and the starter handle will be pulled against the cover). Rotate the cover CC 1-2 turns (this will turn the engine if the flywheel cover is installed on the saw) to tension the spring, and then install the three starter screws. Pull the rope to see if it retracts right.
 
tried a couple more turns on starter rope to tighten it up but no Joy..
that area is stihl so feelthy it needs to come apart..
it seems i remember something about them,,,been awhile but i seem to remember to NOT take the starter apart !! LOL !!
any suggestion to cut down on the pain ???


Make sure you release all the tension on the spring before you remove the pulley and wiggle if it a bit to make sure the end of the spring is disconnected from the pulley. Just in case, make sure you wear eye protection.

Ok,,thats like SOP,,..
any link to an IPL to see what there is to look foreward to ??
 
ron - 10 Series starters are actually very easy to work on, you can remove the cover (3 x 8-32 screws) and wind up the cord, or replace it altogether without having to mess with the spring. For a good cleaning, I would normally remove the screw holding the starter pulley to the starter shaft, remove the pulley, and clean and lubricate the shaft. If the spring pops out, simply wind it back in to the starter housing. If you have trouble getting the pulley back over the shaft and hooked to the spring, get the pulley in place first then slide the shaft through.

Mac 10-10 auto - For the troubled 10-10, I would suggest a thorough carburetor cleaning and new kit along with the other measures.

Mark
 
Ron those starters are easy to service. Take the three cover screws out and rotate the cover clockwise until the tension on the rope is gone. Remove the cover and starter screen and clean out all the crap. Use a 5/16" socket or nut driver to remove the screw in the center of the pulley. Work the pulley off, being careful to NOT pull the spring from the housing. A thin screwdriver behind the pulley will help hold the spring in place. Once the pulley is off, clean it and clean around the spring.

DON'T pull the spring out unless you want to be really thorough. If you DO pull out the spring, you can wind it back into the housing, working from the outside in. Check to see that the ratchet (center axle thing that is turned by the pulley and engages the pawls on the flywheel) turns freely. If you remove the flywheel cover you can pull the ratchet out and clean/oil the bushings.

Inspect the spring. Make sure the outside end is seated in its notch in the flywheel cover. Also check to see that the inner hooked end (that engages the pulley) is there. If your rope isn't retracting it could be that you have a broken spring, or one that's slipping from the pulley notch. Repair or replace the spring if needed.

If you have to replace the rope, you'll need to cut it to length (41" IIRC), melt the ends, and install the anchor pin in it. This pin will be in the end of the old rope, where it's seated in the pulley. You can make a new pin with a finishing nail cut to length if needed. I hold the nail in pliers, heat it with a torch or lighter, push it through the rope (about 1/8" or so from the end), let it cool a tad, push it all the way though until the head sits on the rope, and then cut the excess off (to match the length of the old pin). The rope pulls through the hole in the pulley and the pin seats against it. This is all in the 10-series WSM.

Reassembly is mostly the reverse of disassembly. You reinstall the pulley, making sure the spring engages the notch (and then install/tighten the mounting screw), put the starter screen back on, then wind the rope around the pulley (counter clockwise) until it's all on (the starter cover will now be against the housing and the starter handle will be pulled against the cover). Rotate the cover CC 1-2 turns (this will turn the engine if the flywheel cover is installed on the saw) to tension the spring, and then install the three starter screws. Pull the rope to see if it retracts right.

That also is some pretty good stuff..
caint member the last one of these i did :)
prob got 10 of them things now,,so went looking for an IPL i thot i had but nothing and cant find one online,,got a link ??
 
That also is some pretty good stuff..
caint member the last one of these i did :)
prob got 10 of them things now,,so went looking for an IPL i thot i had but nothing and cant find one online,,got a link ??

Post your model number, and the Sn prefix (should be 10, 11, 12, 13, or 14). We can then find your IPL. I'm going to PM you a link to download the 10-series Workshop Manual. Very handy.
 
ron - 10 Series starters are actually very easy to work on, you can remove the cover (3 x 8-32 screws) and wind up the cord, or replace it altogether without having to mess with the spring. For a good cleaning, I would normally remove the screw holding the starter pulley to the starter shaft, remove the pulley, and clean and lubricate the shaft. If the spring pops out, simply wind it back in to the starter housing. If you have trouble getting the pulley back over the shaft and hooked to the spring, get the pulley in place first then slide the shaft through.

Mac 10-10 auto - For the troubled 10-10, I would suggest a thorough carburetor cleaning and new kit along with the other measures.

Mark

Tnx Mark,,,carb kit on order..
where to find a screen for it and an IPL ?
any junkers i have dont have the screen or it is broken like this one.
 
Tnx Mark,,,carb kit on order..
where to find a screen for it and an IPL ?
any junkers i have dont have the screen or it is broken like this one.

Your PM box is full.............so here's the 10-series WsM link.

http://www.mediafire.com/?w4rk7019mhk7md6

I'm always short starter screens. A couple guys have sent screens to me........and then I ended up needing another one for the PM850 "Retired Logger" project...
 
Post your model number, and the Sn prefix (should be 10, 11, 12, 13, or 14). We can then find your IPL. I'm going to PM you a link to download the 10-series Workshop Manual. Very handy.

well,,it's a promac 10-10-S.
down in the shop now,carb off so easy to ses the info tag and ser number,will look tomorrow and post..
tnx a lot man.

workshop man should help unhooking carb linkage !!! :msp_angry:
 
Parts & such from this week. The last one did not come home with me, SP70 that was an official factory supplied McCulloch loaner saw provided to select dealers.

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Mark
 
ron - keep searching e-bay, those screens come up almost all the time, typically $15 to $20 each. Sometimes you will get lucky and find one in a old shop or flea market.

Also, check your carburetor to see if it is an SDC (Walbro), Tillotson (HS?) or Zama (C2); in any case carburetor kits are all readily available on e-bay or other small engine or OPE dealers.

Mark
 
To much info tonite guys,,thank you.
wil re- read and get my mac's in a row tommorow and go from there.
tnx for all the replies..
Ron.
 
The IPL's show the Walbro SDC, Tillotson HS, and Zama C2 carbs for these saws, but I'd only ever seen SDC's and Zamas on the 10-series Macs........until that PM850 came in. It has a Tillotson HS111. That works for me, as I have a bunch of RK-23HS kits right now and only 1-2 K10-SDC kits at the moment. Really glad it doesn't have the Zama, as I have no kits for them...
 
you need a screen.

Yep. Need one for the PM850 (or to replace a screen robbed from one of my saws to put on the PM850). Also need the rubber insert that fits into the underside of the rear handle.

Good news on the muffler front; I only need a reed valve and the reed valve stop. Turns out I have the rest of the muffler parts afterall (realized that today while looking at the IPL again). Could use a spark screen too I guess. Will probably get a sheet and cut one to size.

I need a good gas cap for the saw too (there's no cap now). If the cap is one of the rebuildable types, I can put a Homelite duckbill valve in it.
 
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