McCulloch Chain Saws

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Maintenance supervisor said:
What's H&S?
Click to expand...
H&S is the same as COA (Cover own Arse) 'Health and Safety' its generally happens when the Grey Beards and dirty boots retire and the shiney bums in offices run things. Now they tell me I have to have a 'Diversity Hire' policy at work.... Im a pest controller and fur trapper. I just thought diversity meant working in different types of weather and terrain, apparently not. Oh well, Ill just keep pretending its the 1970's and carry one ;-)
 
Kevin hayes said:
yeah that's dumb as hell...

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Well i see you also live in the Dixie land so maybe we're not exactly the best people to argue with safety? Especially since most deaths in the south are proceeded by " hold my beer" or "watch this ya'll "
 
Maintenance supervisor said:
Well i see you also live in the Dixie land so maybe we're not exactly the best people to argue with safety? Especially since most deaths in the south are proceeded by " hold my beer" or "watch this ya'll "
Click to expand...
that's right safety third in dixe land and usaully the beer is a celebration of i can't believe that didnt kill me

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
 
Gents

Probably my last post here as the McCulloch 7-10 is basically finished and my time restoring saws and learning to powder coat is done for now as I switch back to my main passion - Ford F-truck restoration.

Appreciate all the help you guys gave me and the patience to endure the same old questions you probably see year after year.

b.jpg
 
Little Jerrry said:
Gents

Probably my last post here as the McCulloch 7-10 is basically finished and my time restoring saws and learning to powder coat is done for now as I switch back to my main passion - Ford F-truck restoration.

Appreciate all the help you guys gave me and the patience to endure the same old questions you probably see year after year.

View attachment 769635
Click to expand...
Great looking saws. Do you have any tips and tricks or links for powder coating?, Ive got a couple of old stihls that could do with a powder coat but dont know if I have the skills to do it. I look on youtube and get confused.
 
Sean Littlefair said:
Great looking saws. Do you have any tips and tricks or links for powder coating?, Ive got a couple of old stihls that could do with a powder coat but dont know if I have the skills to do it. I look on youtube and get confused.
Click to expand...

I restored the middle two saws, the top and bottom saws I just replaced parts but didn't do any powdercoat etc.

I'll share with you the little I do know but remember this is coming from the guy who put the McCulloch 7-10 decal on upside down - so use my advise with discretion.

Remember the Stihl parts are factory powder coated so from my experience a real laborious task to remove (so make sure your passionate about this), whereas the enamel on the McCulloch was a breeze.

Assuming you want to DIY this on the cheap, there are still costs to incur.

Before you even start some equipment you will need:
Dual voltage powder coat unit - Eastwood would be your friend here for USA guys
Oven - assuming chainsaw parts is about as big as you want to go, once again Eastwood sells one that is identical to mine that worked well
Sandblast cabinet (you could use sandpaper but I dont know how the adhesion would be)
Air compressor (s) (12cfm+ - I plumbed a 2.5hp and a 2hp together and I could hold basically hold the psi going through a small 3/8" air hose sized unit).
Shop vac
cyclone dust extractor

Go here for overall guidelines on how to prep / powder coat:
http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/12/prepping-for-powder-coating-step-by-step.html#.XbqbyVUzapq

Go here for powder (so many options - use the gallery for real world examples of what stuff looks like):
https://www.prismaticpowders.com/

My main tips:
- Most powders require 10 minutes at 400F. So put your parts in the oven for an hour before hand at 450F to get all the trapped moisture / oils etc out of the part so you dont get outgassing when you bake it.
- ditch the ground wire that comes with the powder coat gun and put in an earth stake and run your own ground 4mm2 etc to the parts (way better adhesion and flow etc)
- The cheap guns can get you a good finish but it can be a gamble sometimes with the second coat as if the powder doesn't want to stick due to bad ground / insulation / faraday effect, you cant make it stick. So be prepared to be frustrated when you cannot repeat the process and get the same result each time.
- I had issue with consistency with the clear coats, so I just did two colour coats. The high gloss colours (like the McCulloch yellow show up your flaws a lot more than say a satin colour - I couldn't get the yellow right until I changed my grounding half way through. Basically pick simple colours unless you like stripping powder coat.
 
Well today a parcel showed up. Bitter sweet really. I had found a pm700 wrecking on trade me had no spark he said was like new compression and yeah it's like new compression indeed when I rang him he said do ya want the oil pump and decompression valve yup I said well it's not a 700 :( but it is a 10-10S and a very very nice piston n cylinder still has cross hatching in the bore so kinda happy ish sorta lol. I always hoped to get an S but yeah can't complain it was only 65 bucks. Not blaming him eather it had 700 on the filter cover and a decompression valve so I spose an easy mistake for a non mac person. Now to combine a few bits for a frankensaw hehe.20191101_165129.jpg
Wish he had of gave it a blow down at least lol
20191101_165141.jpg thinking this old beast mite be a doner its spitting gas out the carb badly and I've got a 54cc already
20191101_165939.jpg
 
Little Jerrry said:
I restored the middle two saws, the top and bottom saws I just replaced parts but didn't do any powdercoat etc.

I'll share with you the little I do know but remember this is coming from the guy who put the McCulloch 7-10 decal on upside down - so use my advise with discretion.

Remember the Stihl parts are factory powder coated so from my experience a real laborious task to remove (so make sure your passionate about this), whereas the enamel on the McCulloch was a breeze.

Assuming you want to DIY this on the cheap, there are still costs to incur.

Before you even start some equipment you will need:
Dual voltage powder coat unit - Eastwood would be your friend here for USA guys
Oven - assuming chainsaw parts is about as big as you want to go, once again Eastwood sells one that is identical to mine that worked well
Sandblast cabinet (you could use sandpaper but I dont know how the adhesion would be)
Air compressor (s) (12cfm+ - I plumbed a 2.5hp and a 2hp together and I could hold basically hold the psi going through a small 3/8" air hose sized unit).
Shop vac
cyclone dust extractor

Go here for overall guidelines on how to prep / powder coat:
http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/12/prepping-for-powder-coating-step-by-step.html#.XbqbyVUzapq

Go here for powder (so many options - use the gallery for real world examples of what stuff looks like):
https://www.prismaticpowders.com/

My main tips:
- Most powders require 10 minutes at 400F. So put your parts in the oven for an hour before hand at 450F to get all the trapped moisture / oils etc out of the part so you dont get outgassing when you bake it.
- ditch the ground wire that comes with the powder coat gun and put in an earth stake and run your own ground 4mm2 etc to the parts (way better adhesion and flow etc)
- The cheap guns can get you a good finish but it can be a gamble sometimes with the second coat as if the powder doesn't want to stick due to bad ground / insulation / faraday effect, you cant make it stick. So be prepared to be frustrated when you cannot repeat the process and get the same result each time.
- I had issue with consistency with the clear coats, so I just did two colour coats. The high gloss colours (like the McCulloch yellow show up your flaws a lot more than say a satin colour - I couldn't get the yellow right until I changed my grounding half way through. Basically pick simple colours unless you like stripping powder coat.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the
Little Jerrry said:
I restored the middle two saws, the top and bottom saws I just replaced parts but didn't do any powdercoat etc.

I'll share with you the little I do know but remember this is coming from the guy who put the McCulloch 7-10 decal on upside down - so use my advise with discretion.

Remember the Stihl parts are factory powder coated so from my experience a real laborious task to remove (so make sure your passionate about this), whereas the enamel on the McCulloch was a breeze.

Assuming you want to DIY this on the cheap, there are still costs to incur.

Before you even start some equipment you will need:
Dual voltage powder coat unit - Eastwood would be your friend here for USA guys
Oven - assuming chainsaw parts is about as big as you want to go, once again Eastwood sells one that is identical to mine that worked well
Sandblast cabinet (you could use sandpaper but I dont know how the adhesion would be)
Air compressor (s) (12cfm+ - I plumbed a 2.5hp and a 2hp together and I could hold basically hold the psi going through a small 3/8" air hose sized unit).
Shop vac
cyclone dust extractor

Go here for overall guidelines on how to prep / powder coat:
http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/12/prepping-for-powder-coating-step-by-step.html#.XbqbyVUzapq

Go here for powder (so many options - use the gallery for real world examples of what stuff looks like):
https://www.prismaticpowders.com/

My main tips:
- Most powders require 10 minutes at 400F. So put your parts in the oven for an hour before hand at 450F to get all the trapped moisture / oils etc out of the part so you dont get outgassing when you bake it.
- ditch the ground wire that comes with the powder coat gun and put in an earth stake and run your own ground 4mm2 etc to the parts (way better adhesion and flow etc)
- The cheap guns can get you a good finish but it can be a gamble sometimes with the second coat as if the powder doesn't want to stick due to bad ground / insulation / faraday effect, you cant make it stick. So be prepared to be frustrated when you cannot repeat the process and get the same result each time.
- I had issue with consistency with the clear coats, so I just did two colour coats. The high gloss colours (like the McCulloch yellow show up your flaws a lot more than say a satin colour - I couldn't get the yellow right until I changed my grounding half way through. Basically pick simple colours unless you like stripping powder coat.
Click to expand...
Jethro 2t sniffer said:
Well today a parcel showed up. Bitter sweet really. I had found a pm700 wrecking on trade me had no spark he said was like new compression and yeah it's like new compression indeed when I rang him he said do ya want the oil pump and decompression valve yup I said well it's not a 700 :( but it is a 10-10S and a very very nice piston n cylinder still has cross hatching in the bore so kinda happy ish sorta lol. I always hoped to get an S but yeah can't complain it was only 65 bucks. Not blaming him eather it had 700 on the filter cover and a decompression valve so I spose an easy mistake for a non mac person. Now to combine a few bits for a frankensaw hehe.View attachment 769803
Wish he had of gave it a blow down at least lol
View attachment 769804 thinking this old beast mite be a doner its spitting gas out the carb badly and I've got a 54cc already
View attachment 769805
Click to expand...

I’ll swap you that pm 850 start shaft and if you’ve got a fly wheel dog and maybe a half decent bar and chain for that 710 or 700 I’ve got. Runs well, but just needs a fuel line, also, it has one of those single screw carbs (no high jet) I was going to change the carb to a two screw anyway and put the matching fuel line to suit (has large hose end on carbie) my email address is [email protected], with the 850 and the 1010s I’m golden. The 700 or 710 is yours
 
Little Jerrry said:
I restored the middle two saws, the top and bottom saws I just replaced parts but didn't do any powdercoat etc.

I'll share with you the little I do know but remember this is coming from the guy who put the McCulloch 7-10 decal on upside down - so use my advise with discretion.

Remember the Stihl parts are factory powder coated so from my experience a real laborious task to remove (so make sure your passionate about this), whereas the enamel on the McCulloch was a breeze.

Assuming you want to DIY this on the cheap, there are still costs to incur.

Before you even start some equipment you will need:
Dual voltage powder coat unit - Eastwood would be your friend here for USA guys
Oven - assuming chainsaw parts is about as big as you want to go, once again Eastwood sells one that is identical to mine that worked well
Sandblast cabinet (you could use sandpaper but I dont know how the adhesion would be)
Air compressor (s) (12cfm+ - I plumbed a 2.5hp and a 2hp together and I could hold basically hold the psi going through a small 3/8" air hose sized unit).
Shop vac
cyclone dust extractor

Go here for overall guidelines on how to prep / powder coat:
http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/12/prepping-for-powder-coating-step-by-step.html#.XbqbyVUzapq

Go here for powder (so many options - use the gallery for real world examples of what stuff looks like):
https://www.prismaticpowders.com/

My main tips:
- Most powders require 10 minutes at 400F. So put your parts in the oven for an hour before hand at 450F to get all the trapped moisture / oils etc out of the part so you dont get outgassing when you bake it.
- ditch the ground wire that comes with the powder coat gun and put in an earth stake and run your own ground 4mm2 etc to the parts (way better adhesion and flow etc)
- The cheap guns can get you a good finish but it can be a gamble sometimes with the second coat as if the powder doesn't want to stick due to bad ground / insulation / faraday effect, you cant make it stick. So be prepared to be frustrated when you cannot repeat the process and get the same result each time.
- I had issue with consistency with the clear coats, so I just did two colour coats. The high gloss colours (like the McCulloch yellow show up your flaws a lot more than say a satin colour - I couldn't get the yellow right until I changed my grounding half way through. Basically pick simple colours unless you like stripping powder coat.
Click to expand...
Tanks for the info. I appreciate the effort in writing this.
 
Sean Littlefair said:
Thank you for the



I’ll swap you that pm 850 start shaft and if you’ve got a fly wheel dog and maybe a half decent bar and chain for that 710 or 700 I’ve got. Runs well, but just needs a fuel line, also, it has one of those single screw carbs (no high jet) I was going to change the carb to a two screw anyway and put the matching fuel line to suit (has large hose end on carbie) my email address is [email protected], with the 850 and the 1010s I’m golden. The 700 or 710 is yours
Click to expand...

Aww wow yup you have my interest definitely:) umm I only have 1 shaft that fits your saw but its inployed on my 800 however 1 way or another will sort a shaft out for it. I'll send ya an email now
 

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