McCulloch Chain Saws

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Looking at those photos of the G-70 again, I just realized that not only does it have an external oiler, but it looks like it has an external fuel tank too. :laugh:
Who wants to bet that there's something wrong with the fuel tank and/or oiler or other internals?
The listing says that it turns over and has lots of compression, but the guy has never tried putting some gas in to try and start it.

I don't know... I'm tempted but I'm kind of worried about what's lurking under the surface. The mag rot and missing fuel cap don't help the confidence either lol.
Is the G-70 particularly uncommon/rare at all? Should I just go for it anyway?
 
Looking at those photos of the G-70 again, I just realized that not only does it have an external oiler, but it looks like it has an external fuel tank too. :laugh:
Who wants to bet that there's something wrong with the fuel tank and/or oiler or other internals?
The listing says that it turns over and has lots of compression, but the guy has never tried putting some gas in to try and start it.

I don't know... I'm tempted but I'm kind of worried about what's lurking under the surface. The mag rot and missing fuel cap don't help the confidence either lol.
Is the G-70 particularly uncommon/rare at all? Should I just go for it anyway?
It is more rare than other 70cc saws and with a gear drive it should be a monster.
Honestly other 10 series tanks should fit it, I believe that I have a spare in the shed if you can't find one.
 
Looking at those photos of the G-70 again, I just realized that not only does it have an external oiler, but it looks like it has an external fuel tank too. :laugh:
Who wants to bet that there's something wrong with the fuel tank and/or oiler or other internals?
The listing says that it turns over and has lots of compression, but the guy has never tried putting some gas in to try and start it.

I don't know... I'm tempted but I'm kind of worried about what's lurking under the surface. The mag rot and missing fuel cap don't help the confidence either lol.
Is the G-70 particularly uncommon/rare at all? Should I just go for it anyway?
I hope you go for it kid!! I have parts to help also. if you dont buy it please get it for me. Ill send the money to you.
 
Looking at those photos of the G-70 again, I just realized that not only does it have an external oiler, but it looks like it has an external fuel tank too. :laugh:
Who wants to bet that there's something wrong with the fuel tank and/or oiler or other internals?
The listing says that it turns over and has lots of compression, but the guy has never tried putting some gas in to try and start it.

I don't know... I'm tempted but I'm kind of worried about what's lurking under the surface. The mag rot and missing fuel cap don't help the confidence either lol.
Is the G-70 particularly uncommon/rare at all? Should I just go for it anyway?
It was probably used for milling, thus the larger tanks for extended run times.

Ron
 
I have a 2-10G and a Super LG-6. While the LG-6 is much cleaner overall and seems to have better compression, the 2-10 seems a lot stronger and faster in the cut. Strange that the additional displacement is not evident in performance.

There were perhaps 8 or 10 different 10 Series gear drive saws but the G-70 seems to command the best prices and $100 seems pretty reasonable.

Mark
 
It was probably used for milling, thus the larger tanks for extended run times.
That actually makes a lot of sense. It would be a pretty nice milling saw with all that torque, wouldn't it?
Well, I'll try contacting the guy and see what happens. I'm keeping you in mind vinny, but I'm probably going to end up wanting to keep this one lol. :)
 
Here's a brief update on the 10-10 (auto, as it turns out). I replaced the plug wire and re-assembled the saw this afternoon, but (of course) the recoil decided to refuse to retract quickly. Some PB Blaster remedied that and the saw popped on choke, but only ran for 3-5 seconds off of choke. A quick check revealed a crack in the fuel line, so I'll have to get a new one of those. Is it better to get a new Mac line or make a grommet/tygon setup?
 
Can anyone tell me the pertinent specs for the grommets/line? Better yet, could I just use the black Husky line instead of tygon?
I use a 034/36 stihl fuel line. It hasn't given me any problems.
Sorry i moved all my pictures to usb yesterday, but they are posted here .
 
For what it's worth, when I was getting my grandpa's 10-10A going again I decided to give one of those kits that comes with an aluminum bushing a try. It was easy to install and has worked great.
Granted, I have one of those shop presses so it made installing said bushing really easy.
 
For what it's worth, when I was getting my grandpa's 10-10A going again I decided to give one of those kits that comes with an aluminum bushing a try. It was easy to install and has worked great.
Granted, I have one of those shop presses so it made installing said bushing really easy.
I have put several of those on my saws and on Ron's and they work well. But I never had to use a press.

If you use a heat gun on the tigon lines and form the turns at the carb it will work nicely. Just do not over heat them.

Brian
 
Anything one may use as a 10 series fuel line solution will likely be proprietary to the particular saw (and redneckery required) unless it's indeed an 'off the shelf' solution such as the very common Stihl 1127 358 7703 hose.

Husky line will need a grommet, but I'd use straight Stihl R5 line anyway if going that route with smaller diameter line. Cheaper and better. The carb fitting would need to be replaced for the smaller line, of course.

The metal bushing approach has held up nicely in the infamous 7-10 from Kevin that I presume was installed by Mark. Reasonably priced and effective. Fits the larger carb fitting and handles the bend nicely after a little heat as Brian mentioned.

If you decide to roll your own with a grommet and Tygon, use genuine Tygon F-4040-A, not just any old yellow fuel line. I even shy away from the Stens/Oregon stuff.
 

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