mcculloch mac 3200

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3516 Oiler update

Had it apart again, can't find anything wrong, but no oil. Couple of questions:

1) Oil pump. I assume when it sits in the black housing, with it's spring pushing it up, the "D" on the pump shaft should align with the outlet side of the pump housing? Or should the shaft be pressed up to it's stop in the plastic splined gear?

2) Worm gear. This seems to be a form of clutch that keeps the worm gear from stripping the plastic splined gear? Not sure what can go wrong here or wear? How to check for functionality? Seems to be able to spin on the crankshaft, but with the spring pressure, turns the pump when I turn the crankshaft.

Not a whole lot to go wrong, and all seems in order, but no oil!! I primed it with oil, so all the passages are clear.

Any thoughts? If I hadn't thrown bar, two chains, and a drive gear at it, I'd give up, but I'm still game...
 
Man, I had mine apart too long ago and just don't remember enough. The big spring that drives the worm is a kind of slip clutch, but I kinda doubt that's the issue. I can't remember if this pump works like so many others where there is a wobbly grove that causes the pump to move up and down as it spins - I think so. Does the pump shaft fit in the o-ring properly, and is the o-ring in good shape?
 
WoodHeatWarrior said:
Man, I had mine apart too long ago and just don't remember enough. The big spring that drives the worm is a kind of slip clutch, but I kinda doubt that's the issue. I can't remember if this pump works like so many others where there is a wobbly grove that causes the pump to move up and down as it spins - I think so. Does the pump shaft fit in the o-ring properly, and is the o-ring in good shape?
Click to expand...

O-ring looks nice - tight and well-formed. The top of the splined plastic part is not flat and looks like it might have some 'cam - action', but it just rests against a foam plug (unless something "sproinged" somewhere when I took it apart; don't see it on the IPL), so I don't see how it would cause any motion. Hmm...

{Edit} Looked at the IPL again, and indeed there is a pin/dowel at the top of the pump that is missing, so I need to find it or make one. HA! Thanks!
 
Last edited:
WeenerDog said:
O-ring looks nice - tight and well-formed. The top of the splined plastic part is not flat and looks like it might have some 'cam - action', but it just rests against a foam plug (unless something "sproinged" somewhere when I took it apart; don't see it on the IPL), so I don't see how it would cause any motion. Hmm...

{Edit} Looked at the IPL again, and indeed there is a pin/dowel at the top of the pump that is missing, so I need to find it or make one. HA! Thanks!
Click to expand...

Maybe a finish nail would be appropiate...................................................:msp_wink:
 
mower05 said:
i have just picked up this saw from a friend and he had bought it from a flea market and i had to help him replace fuel line and the studs that hold the bar on which was stripped after getting saw back together and filling up with gas and bar oil it started to leak bar oil which we fixed with a new gasket he let another friend that was interested in buying this saw try it out he brought it back with bar oil pouring out of the case after a while he decided i had somthing he needed and after trading being the good friend i am i tore it apart to see where it was leaking and found the bar oil tank was busted at the neck and the oil line was busted easy enough to get out and put back in but here is where the head ache starts i can not find another tank and i really would like to fix it since it looks brand new and runs awesome little saw with14"bar but i figure good trimming saw can some one help me please this is the only place i figured that could help me thank you and god bless
Click to expand...

heimannm said:
Two 3200's in the truck and headed for St. Joe tomorrow.

Mark
Click to expand...

Am babysitting (I am a qualified grandparent) two 3200s Mark left here yesterday. Made it halfway from Dike, Iowa to Semour, Mo..

Awaiting shipping/mailing instructions from the O.P.. Shoot me a private message.
 
I've had one of these for some 14 years. I use it to prune around the yard. I also let the grand kids use it. Had three bars on it from where they have bent the bars. The original sprocket is worn out now. I'm going to steal one from my worthless unused MiniMac?

I've had to put new fuel lines on it but nothing else.

The chainsaw really came alive with the muffler mod described earlier. It made a decent little chainsaw out of it. I opened the outlet holes on the muffler more than shown in the other post.

I cut the safety rakers way down on the chain. I don't remember the original chain having the extra rakers on it?

McCulloch14321997.jpg


McCulluch1432.jpg
 
WoodHeatWarrior said:
Yes it will - give it a muffler mod, it woke mine up considerably. I really want to play with one of the 38cc versions with A/V. Quad open transfers......
Click to expand...

The A/V on those is crap. I had a couple here. One A/V that was locked up, and one "hardtail" that needed some external bits (like oil tank.) I decided to build one good one on the A/V chassis. Next time I get bored, I'm going to convert back to the rigid handlebars. It is just a flimsy bad idea. You may have better luck. The throttle linkage is crummy and the whole thing feels like you are trying to cut with a 2/3 full water balloon. I have had several 3200's in rigid form, and they have always been good light duty and loaner saws. I have not touched the A/V since I put it together.

The snapped oil tank neck is a very common thing on these. Also the oil line breaking right where it exits the tank. This, in turn, can cause the oil pump to run dry and melt the plastic drive gear. If I get one with a broken tank, I go no further. If it won't oil, I check the pump first since my supply of used ones is zero. On these, any time they need fuel lines one should just plan on replacing oil lines too. I quote an hour shop time for those if they come in with bad fuel lines and just require the customer to do oil lines as well.
 
Saw Dr. said:
The A/V on those is crap. I had a couple here. One A/V that was locked up, and one "hardtail" that needed some external bits (like oil tank.) I decided to build one good one on the A/V chassis. Next time I get bored, I'm going to convert back to the rigid handlebars. It is just a flimsy bad idea. You may have better luck. The throttle linkage is crummy and the whole thing feels like you are trying to cut with a 2/3 full water balloon. I have had several 3200's in rigid form, and they have always been good light duty and loaner saws. I have not touched the A/V since I put it together.

The snapped oil tank neck is a very common thing on these. Also the oil line breaking right where it exits the tank. This, in turn, can cause the oil pump to run dry and melt the plastic drive gear. If I get one with a broken tank, I go no further. If it won't oil, I check the pump first since my supply of used ones is zero. On these, any time they need fuel lines one should just plan on replacing oil lines too. I quote an hour shop time for those if they come in with bad fuel lines and just require the customer to do oil lines as well.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that information - now I won't bother with the A/V. I was on the fence anyway because one of the things I liked most about the design is how simple and basic it is. If I find one with A/V cheap locally maybe I'll mess with that. They buzz but they're OK if you don't run them steady long term. The only time I had problems was when I ran two full tanks through while limbing some downed oaks, only stopping to refuel. At the end I couldn't feel my hands for about half an hour. Better gloves help too.

It's kind of too bad because the saw works great with the 12" bar that's on it. It could clearly pull a 14" no problem, but I liked it with the 12" I even put a spike on it because it's got a lot of torque for 32cc and can stand some pressure on it. I have Oregon 91PX on it, which is noticeable faster than 91VG. I end up using it more than I thought I would.
 
67L36Driver said:
Am babysitting (I am a qualified grandparent) two 3200s Mark left here yesterday. Made it halfway from Dike, Iowa to Semour, Mo..

Awaiting shipping/mailing instructions from the O.P.. Shoot me a private message.
Click to expand...

You wouldn't be going to the Iowa gtg by chance??
Work saw collector and I will be there, and I drive through Seymour weekly...
Used to live there...
 
Wow this brings back painful members. My saw was only used a few times, maybe couple hours max. When my FIL gave it to me, i spent more time working on the saw than cutting with it. I had all the same problems as u except my oiler worked. I got tired of working on it and traded the mac3200 to my brother for a homelite HT18 hedge trimmer. I got the better end of that deal.
 
Chainsaw relay.

Tenative plans are for Mo. Jim will pick up saws from me and take them to the Iowa GTG. Pass them on to Hedgerow or someone from the Springfield, Mo. area to hold for the O.P. of this thread.

mower05 are you out there?
 
Victory at last!

I know this wasn't the point of this thread, but I got the oiler working. Didn't have the dowel/pin, and it wasn't clear how it was captive. I measured the hole for the pin and it was 1/8" -- perfect for a 8-32 screw in plastic. I was going to turn down the end of the screw on my lathe, but the chuck wouldn't go that small ( I miss my little 7x12 chinese lathe sometimes!). So, I put it in the drill press and used a file to take the threads off from .340" out. Cut it at .6", screwed it in with a bit of locktite and the Valdez rides again -- oil galore. Hope that made sense...


Thanks for the help, guys!
 
WeenerDog said:
I know this wasn't the point of this thread, but I got the oiler working. Didn't have the dowel/pin, and it wasn't clear how it was captive. I measured the hole for the pin and it was 1/8" -- perfect for a 8-32 screw in plastic. I was going to turn down the end of the screw on my lathe, but the chuck wouldn't go that small ( I miss my little 7x12 chinese lathe sometimes!). So, I put it in the drill press and used a file to take the threads off from .340" out. Cut it at .6", screwed it in with a bit of locktite and the Valdez rides again -- oil galore. Hope that made sense...


Thanks for the help, guys!
Click to expand...

You do realize, you just applied a million dollar solution to a 5 dollar problem...
:msp_biggrin:
 
On the muffler mod . . .

There are two baffle plates and a screen inside the muffler that you can just completely remove.

Then it is just a matter of enlarging the outlet holes.

The muffler will fit back together without the baffle plates.

This leaves the muffler as a hollow box. The result is louder but it is a chainsaw.

I did my 3214 and it really came alive. Then I did a 3818 which had the same muffler but I didn't see so much improvement.

A Stihl "yellow" chain will help these a lot too. The cutters are larger.
 
w8ye said:
On the muffler mod . . .

There are two baffle plates and a screen inside the muffler that you can just completely remove.

Then it is just a matter of enlarging the outlet holes.

The muffler will fit back together without the baffle plates.

This leaves the muffler as a hollow box. The result is louder but it is a chainsaw.

I did my 3214 and it really came alive. Then I did a 3818 which had the same muffler but I didn't see so much improvement.

A Stihl "yellow" chain will help these a lot too. The cutters are larger.
Click to expand...

I even put a bigger carb on my 3200...
:msp_sneaky:
 

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