Yep. Great job. Now to find someone with a 3D printer and the right material to simplify it and produce a few more!
McCulloch Mini and Small CC Chainsaw's
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I've talked to some people about 3d printing NLA plastic parts. The common message is that the cost of the machine, materials, etc it would be very difficult to even break even.
However, the idea of injection molding is something I've thought about, if it was possible.
If I DID make recoils for the small Macs, I would make them like the one-piece plastic pulleys on the later models like a Mac 160. Even though the narrow metal pawls on the earlier models kinda tear them up, they seem to hold up. I had one in my old MM30 for years. It's all gouged up but never slips. They seem to work just fine with both styles of flywheels.
However, the idea of injection molding is something I've thought about, if it was possible.
If I DID make recoils for the small Macs, I would make them like the one-piece plastic pulleys on the later models like a Mac 160. Even though the narrow metal pawls on the earlier models kinda tear them up, they seem to hold up. I had one in my old MM30 for years. It's all gouged up but never slips. They seem to work just fine with both styles of flywheels.
Thank you!Well done MacAttack, very well done!
One more Mini kept out of the landfill right? Haha.
How is that 30 running?
So many to save, so little time... and shelf space. 
I honestly haven't used the 30 in a while. It ran fine and probably still does, but I parked it not long after I put the collar on, and did some more test runs with it. It's been waiting to be used at a "job" that I had in mind for it.
However, there was so much that needed, and still needs to be cleared away first before any saws can come out.
I'm not sure when I'll get a chance to use the 30 in a more serious way, but hopefully I'll be able to use it a bit in the next few weeks.
I honestly haven't used the 30 in a while. It ran fine and probably still does, but I parked it not long after I put the collar on, and did some more test runs with it. It's been waiting to be used at a "job" that I had in mind for it.
However, there was so much that needed, and still needs to be cleared away first before any saws can come out.
I'm not sure when I'll get a chance to use the 30 in a more serious way, but hopefully I'll be able to use it a bit in the next few weeks.
McCulloch SE2114 (?) needed some help. I recently acquired this saw from someone on one of the forums...getting old I guess...I got it because I thought I needed one for my display but when I looked up front I found I had one already. The 300 Series saws (PM310, 320, 330, 340, etc....) are in fact good small saws but they can be a pain to work on with so much going on in the air box with the throttle cable, impulse line, and fuel line. In addition, the sheath on the throttle cables always seem to be broken making the throttle difficult to impossible to operate.
I am running low on small saws to sell so I thought I'd give this one a good going over to make it whole again for someone wanting a smaller saw.
On my initial disassembly I found the coil was completely loose inside the housing and evidently the saw had been running with the coil loose as the lamination were badly damaged. The saw needed a good cleaning in any case.
As per usual, the throttle cable sheath was broken in several places.
The throttle return springs on these are very strong to overcome the friction of the wire within the sheath making reassembly a real challenge.
To help hold things together during assembly, I use a #6 x 3/8" sheet metal screw to hold that trigger in place.
It is still a challenge with the throttle cable, release, and rubber mount in the rear of the handle but the screw makes it at least possible.
I somehow ended up with a number of the throttle cables for the 330/340 type saws with the extended rear handle and only one or two for the 310/320 type with the top handles. To modify the cable I straighten out the hook on the carburetor end and slide the sheath off, cut it to 10-1/2" long, and reform the hook for the throttle keeping the extension between 1-7/16 and 1-1/2". Too long and it won't open the throttle fully, too short and the saw won't be able to return to idle.
Do as I say, not as I do.
I first tried squeezing the original laminations back together (not too bad) and reusing the original coil but either the laminations were far enough out to affect the operation, or the coil had issues but upon reassembly for the first time the saw clearly had ignition issues.
The next attempt was a NOS coil from the attic with the same SEM Walbro numbers as the original but the plug was a bit too short and I could not get the fuel tank to fit in the allotted space. Next I found a different looking coil that had a longer wire but physically fit the space and put the saw back together again. The saw would run, albeit not very well, starting the saw clearly demonstrated the timing was too far advanced, and it would idle for a few seconds then die requiring use of the choke to get it started again. Based on that I presumed I had a fuel/carburetor issue so take it all apart again.
I'd already cleaned the carburetor and installed new diaphragms and gaskets...this time I removed the check valve (tested fine but replaced it anyway), removed the welch plug and cleaned underneath (looked good in any case), and back together again. I used a slightly longer impulse line this time to make sure I didn't have any leaks at the ends. Pressure test the carburetor and it slowly leaks down so take it apart and replace the metering needle. For your information, the Zama C1 on the 300 saws uses the same metering needle as the Walbro SDC carburetors. Now it holds pressure so put the saw back together again. It runs just like it did before...
Take it all apart again, I'd already done a pressure test on the crankcase but thought I'd check it again...still holds pressure but it does seem to leak down slowly...dunk it in water and find a small leak bubbling through the automatic oil pump...not so unusual really and not enough to alter the performance of the saw. I decided this time to vacuum test as well, absolutely won't hold any vacuum so the crankcase comes apart, replace the seals and bearings while I' at it.
I have high hope for the saw at this point so back together again (what's this, #5, #6, ???) and honestly no change in the way it runs...rough on top, idles too fast but slowly looses RPM and dies...that advanced ignition during starting has me concerned so I took the SEM Wabro ignition (NOS mind you) and remove the spark plug lead and replace it with the longer one that was on the saw originally. Well what do you know, the saw now starts normally, accelerates nicely, adjusts as expected at high speed...why didn't I put the correct ignition in it to begin with?
I always test the automatic oil pump off the saw by manually working the piston, and the oil pump is fine. Add oil to the tank, fire up the saw and within 30 seconds or so we have a nice stream of oil pumping out.
Time to finally assemble the bar, chain, and clutch cover only to remember the brake band was broken.
...
Mark
I am running low on small saws to sell so I thought I'd give this one a good going over to make it whole again for someone wanting a smaller saw.
On my initial disassembly I found the coil was completely loose inside the housing and evidently the saw had been running with the coil loose as the lamination were badly damaged. The saw needed a good cleaning in any case.
As per usual, the throttle cable sheath was broken in several places.
The throttle return springs on these are very strong to overcome the friction of the wire within the sheath making reassembly a real challenge.
To help hold things together during assembly, I use a #6 x 3/8" sheet metal screw to hold that trigger in place.
It is still a challenge with the throttle cable, release, and rubber mount in the rear of the handle but the screw makes it at least possible.
I somehow ended up with a number of the throttle cables for the 330/340 type saws with the extended rear handle and only one or two for the 310/320 type with the top handles. To modify the cable I straighten out the hook on the carburetor end and slide the sheath off, cut it to 10-1/2" long, and reform the hook for the throttle keeping the extension between 1-7/16 and 1-1/2". Too long and it won't open the throttle fully, too short and the saw won't be able to return to idle.
Do as I say, not as I do.
I first tried squeezing the original laminations back together (not too bad) and reusing the original coil but either the laminations were far enough out to affect the operation, or the coil had issues but upon reassembly for the first time the saw clearly had ignition issues.
The next attempt was a NOS coil from the attic with the same SEM Walbro numbers as the original but the plug was a bit too short and I could not get the fuel tank to fit in the allotted space. Next I found a different looking coil that had a longer wire but physically fit the space and put the saw back together again. The saw would run, albeit not very well, starting the saw clearly demonstrated the timing was too far advanced, and it would idle for a few seconds then die requiring use of the choke to get it started again. Based on that I presumed I had a fuel/carburetor issue so take it all apart again.
I'd already cleaned the carburetor and installed new diaphragms and gaskets...this time I removed the check valve (tested fine but replaced it anyway), removed the welch plug and cleaned underneath (looked good in any case), and back together again. I used a slightly longer impulse line this time to make sure I didn't have any leaks at the ends. Pressure test the carburetor and it slowly leaks down so take it apart and replace the metering needle. For your information, the Zama C1 on the 300 saws uses the same metering needle as the Walbro SDC carburetors. Now it holds pressure so put the saw back together again. It runs just like it did before...
Take it all apart again, I'd already done a pressure test on the crankcase but thought I'd check it again...still holds pressure but it does seem to leak down slowly...dunk it in water and find a small leak bubbling through the automatic oil pump...not so unusual really and not enough to alter the performance of the saw. I decided this time to vacuum test as well, absolutely won't hold any vacuum so the crankcase comes apart, replace the seals and bearings while I' at it.
I have high hope for the saw at this point so back together again (what's this, #5, #6, ???) and honestly no change in the way it runs...rough on top, idles too fast but slowly looses RPM and dies...that advanced ignition during starting has me concerned so I took the SEM Wabro ignition (NOS mind you) and remove the spark plug lead and replace it with the longer one that was on the saw originally. Well what do you know, the saw now starts normally, accelerates nicely, adjusts as expected at high speed...why didn't I put the correct ignition in it to begin with?
I always test the automatic oil pump off the saw by manually working the piston, and the oil pump is fine. Add oil to the tank, fire up the saw and within 30 seconds or so we have a nice stream of oil pumping out.
Time to finally assemble the bar, chain, and clutch cover only to remember the brake band was broken.
...
Mark
I had not worked on one of these brakes before but I did have the parts needed on hand, looked it over and concluded the only way to replace the brake band was to press the lever off the cover.
That job actually went pretty well. Some brakes are very tricky to put back together but this one was no problem.
Well, finally I was ready to get the saw assembled and tested.
Oh yeah, while I was in there I decided to replace the intake boot just in case...the stop wire assembly broke during one of the reassembly attempts so I changed that out, I also replace the o-ring at the base of the automatic oil pump whenever I am in one of these.
I only had a 14" black bar within easy reach so I used that. While this saw would not be my first choice for bucking 20" diameter logs, I do believe it could get the job done. I tested it in my big oak log with the bar buried and it really keep chugging along.
I have so much practice on the 300's I am going to take on Ed's project next, before I forget some of the little tricks & steps I've uncovered on this project.
Mark
That job actually went pretty well. Some brakes are very tricky to put back together but this one was no problem.
Well, finally I was ready to get the saw assembled and tested.
Oh yeah, while I was in there I decided to replace the intake boot just in case...the stop wire assembly broke during one of the reassembly attempts so I changed that out, I also replace the o-ring at the base of the automatic oil pump whenever I am in one of these.
I only had a 14" black bar within easy reach so I used that. While this saw would not be my first choice for bucking 20" diameter logs, I do believe it could get the job done. I tested it in my big oak log with the bar buried and it really keep chugging along.
I have so much practice on the 300's I am going to take on Ed's project next, before I forget some of the little tricks & steps I've uncovered on this project.
Mark
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Great stuff, Mark.
Well, Happy New Year Everyone!
It's been a while, but I bring a quick little update about the 30.
I finally had a chance to run it in a more demanding way, and it was great! It really is a powerhouse and I'm pleased with how it, and the "collar" repair held up as well.
I have more jobs to do. And while I'll probably use another "workhorse" saw for the bulk of them, I'll definitely bring out the 30 whenever I can.
It's been a while, but I bring a quick little update about the 30.
I finally had a chance to run it in a more demanding way, and it was great! It really is a powerhouse and I'm pleased with how it, and the "collar" repair held up as well.
I have more jobs to do. And while I'll probably use another "workhorse" saw for the bulk of them, I'll definitely bring out the 30 whenever I can.
Seeing positive activity here in the 'Little Mac Thread That Could' is always encouraging to me considering the number of Mini's I've acquired over the years. Of the few I've worked on, there always seems to be something just not quite right when I'm finished -- and another project is deemed more important or urgent which moves them back to the rainy day shelf again.
I applaud you guys for your persistence, determination, and fondness for these saws. They deserve it. They're certainly in a class of their own! LOL
I applaud you guys for your persistence, determination, and fondness for these saws. They deserve it. They're certainly in a class of their own! LOL
gumneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
It's been just over a year and getting back to the mini mac 6 for my dad...shameful but seems to be how it is for me. Combination of being too cheap to buy the additional check valve kit, procrastination, and unfocused. Anyway, Picked up the check valve kit from Randy's parts. Started to try to pick/pry the brass retainer for the check valve out and my cheap pick isnt going to cut it. I'm thinking a real mechanic pick or correct size ez out....possibly left hand drill bit?? Anyway, I've read where others in this thread replace the valves without removing retainer which I should have searched prior to attempting removal as I'm ALL IN now that its buggered up!
You could try prying with something more sturdy, like a better pick, or use an ez-out or tap.
Just make sure whatever you use doesn't dig into the carb when you try to get it to grab.
Personally, I used a broken 8-32 tap that I had to modify on the bench grinder. It grabbed the brass retainer pretty well and it popped out without a hitch.
Just make sure whatever you use doesn't dig into the carb when you try to get it to grab.
Personally, I used a broken 8-32 tap that I had to modify on the bench grinder. It grabbed the brass retainer pretty well and it popped out without a hitch.
You can replace the check valve without removing the brass seat, I did it a few months ago. It took patience, persistence and a magnifying glass but I did it. I just VERY carefully worked the new rubber disc into place with a small probe.
But since at this point it needs to be replaced, I've also read using a small tap works well. And yeah don't damage the carb body.
gumneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
Back on it, I used a left hand drill bit that would just barely grab the brass insert. Chucked it in a drill to hold it steady, then turned the drill by hand just to see what would happen. I could tell it would really cut quickly if I hit the trigger. So abandoned that idea. Grabbed my cheap harbor freight pick again using a paint can lid remover across carb to pry against and it popped out like nothing. I'm going to say the drill bit knocked it loose. There are four little raised triangles around that tiny hole that my pic scratched to shiny but nothing else damaged by me. The carb metal shows some deterioration around the edges where the welch plug contacts. Welch plug is another issue now. The kits I bought only had the small plug. The plug that is 1/2"D wasn't included in the $18 Randy's engine kit which is disappointing. 
gumneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here's the kit from Randy's Engine for the check valve in case anyone needs to know what's included not included. The pics of the plugs alone show the 2 I pulled with the one from the kit. 
I'm glad I found this thread. You guys really know these saws inside and out.
Looks like I'm have a similar issue finding the correct carb parts as Gumneck and a few others. Only one of the welch plugs in the carb kit fit in the MDC carb. Where is a good source for the larger welch plug, 1/2" od? I've been searching online but haven't found a good source. Most that I am seeing are steel also.
Looks like I'm have a similar issue finding the correct carb parts as Gumneck and a few others. Only one of the welch plugs in the carb kit fit in the MDC carb. Where is a good source for the larger welch plug, 1/2" od? I've been searching online but haven't found a good source. Most that I am seeing are steel also.
Scottnc
ArboristSite Member
gumneck, I PM'd you.
Scott
Scott
gumneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
68560 is the part no I believe...me too, I just need one.
I got this Mini Mac 130 off ebay a couple of months ago for £30 as a non-runner, but with a brand new chain on. It frapped a couple of times when I put some fuel in, so looked at carb settings and noticed they were wildly out, set back to factory but couldnt get it to start again, set it down for an hour and it completely hydrolocked, fuel coming out the exhaust. So I laid it up for a couple of weeks a bit fed up, then started dissasembly to put a carb kit on.....I very promptly gave up on that idea when I saw how annoying it is to take the carb off! So I thought I'd try my luck and stick some fuel in it again - low and behold it was straight into life!
The balance is awkward, starting it after refuelling is awkward, and its amazingly loud for a little saw, but it's slowly turning into one of my favourites! I'm not sure why, but I love running this little thing!
The balance is awkward, starting it after refuelling is awkward, and its amazingly loud for a little saw, but it's slowly turning into one of my favourites! I'm not sure why, but I love running this little thing!
