Their daddy is my 10-10 that I started up after I took this photo haha.
McCulloch Mini and Small CC Chainsaw's
- Thread starter Overtrained
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Fired up a Mini Mac 35 today from boxes of collected parts. It revs well ,electronic chip ,sounds hungry .Great to hear it run .
What kind of chip? Something to bypass the points?
Yes .Used a single terminal chip from amazon , no name ,for a John Deere. going thru condensers got tired of $ loss and Not a running saw .I have point saws ,they do great. With these chips they seem to do better. so far so good .This Mini Mac 35. is still in need of some TLC .
On my Mini Mac 35 bar is a McCulloch 90550 DP, is this a 3/8" .050 low profile ? Chain on ipl list is a MM370G . saw has an aftermarket no name chain on it . Have found part #s only Have searched and not found a link to McCulloch bars and chains, with information as to what it is ?
90550 is a 14" sprocket nose bar for 3/8 LP chain. MM370G is 3/8 LP chain with guard links (bumpers) but any 3/8 LP chain will work. 49 DL chains will fit on gas powered saws, but electric saws will require a longer chain. If I remember correctly, the electric saws use 55 DL.
Mark
Mark
Thank you Mark.
Just saw this sticky so I am probably better to post my questions on my newly-acquired Mac3516AV here. I do have the manuals.
I was planning to the local supplier tomorrow morning for a few things such as a new air filter and there are some fasteners missing, for the guards. I want that all 100%. However, a call to them filled me in that the 4 parts I wanted are all NLA.
I'm getting some oil leakage on the bottom of the case, where the two black halves meet. Haven't opened it up yet. Is that likely the hose(s) coming off of the oil reservoir?
Is there a sponsor here who would be likely to have the parts I need? I'd rather go new rather than eBay (and get the wrong thing).
I was planning to the local supplier tomorrow morning for a few things such as a new air filter and there are some fasteners missing, for the guards. I want that all 100%. However, a call to them filled me in that the 4 parts I wanted are all NLA.
I'm getting some oil leakage on the bottom of the case, where the two black halves meet. Haven't opened it up yet. Is that likely the hose(s) coming off of the oil reservoir?
Is there a sponsor here who would be likely to have the parts I need? I'd rather go new rather than eBay (and get the wrong thing).
I had the same problem, I replaced the hose and then put a connecting nipple on the end of the hose and pulled it snug to the intake port of the oil reservoir. Stopped leaking for now.
Mike - look for 219848, alternate 302138. If you can't find one elsewhere check witih me.
LMU - I'd recommend 40:1, just a little added layer of protection that way. The carburetor is fully adjustable so you can run a bit on the rich side if you need to use 50:1. Just making sure there is always some oil in the fuel means a failure is highly unlikely.
Mark
LMU - I'd recommend 40:1, just a little added layer of protection that way. The carburetor is fully adjustable so you can run a bit on the rich side if you need to use 50:1. Just making sure there is always some oil in the fuel means a failure is highly unlikely.
Mark
Thanks. And straight 30 weight motor oil is fine for the bar and chain lube? Or is there some benefit to using specific bar and chain lube?
My saw doesn't have a manual lube pushbutton which is a little different than what I'm used to.
My saw doesn't have a manual lube pushbutton which is a little different than what I'm used to.
Bar and chain oil has certain additives to improve the tackiness, helps keep more oil on the bar and chain and less gets flung off. You can use motor oil in a pinch but any brand of bar and chain oil will be a better option. Some brands have some molybdnem disulfide in them, smells like sulphur but has very good lubricating properties for the sliding friction of the bar and chain.
Mark
Mark
Thank you Mark!
I'd have to disagree with using any bar & chain oil on a saw that has the plastic gears in the oil pump.Here's why - if you're out there in the winter when it's frozen the outer edges of hell trying to cut wood the oil will be so thick & heavy that it'll prevent to gear that rides on the crankshaft from turning.The crank will spin on the plastic gear & wear a spot in the plastic gear.Bob Johnson gave me advice on this a few yrs.back.The best solution for this is to run a lightweight oil in the oiler (especially in winter),or cut the bar oil with kerosene or fuel oil (diesel).
I haven't been on this sticky in a while about my E.B.2.1 oiler issues in a while.The saw pretty much pissed me off & I threw it on a pile of saws till I cooled off.I went to my local hardware store looking for the O ring for the oil pump's base to no avail.I just happened to be scrolling through feebay a few nights ago & lo & behold,there was the O ring I was looking for.I know some folks here think that $6 for 2 O rings is too much to pay.Go get a bag of 100 of 'em that I'll use one out of in my lifetime for $7 + shipping,sorry,not doing that.I should get the O rings this week,they're coming from Canada.No biggie,I live less than 100 mi.from the Canadian border.I'll also put in a new oil line.If I can't get that little bugger to oil after putting in a new oil pump,new O ring,& new oil line,then it's only worthy for target practice.
Ed is absolutely correct, the 3200 saws in particular are very hard on the oiler gears if a thicker oil is used in cold temperatures.
My point was that any brand of bar oil is better than any other type of lubricant (motor oil, transmisson fluid, hydraulic fluid, vegetable oil) for keeping the oil on the chain. When cutting in colder tempertures with a gear drive oil pump, keep in mind that the heavy weight oil could lead to collateral damage.
Mark
My point was that any brand of bar oil is better than any other type of lubricant (motor oil, transmisson fluid, hydraulic fluid, vegetable oil) for keeping the oil on the chain. When cutting in colder tempertures with a gear drive oil pump, keep in mind that the heavy weight oil could lead to collateral damage.
Mark
